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Nickel Plated Shot

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Russianblood

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Is nickel plated shot safe in muzzleloading shotguns? I know it's the hardest of lead based shot but is the coating damaging to muzzleloading barrels like steel is? I would like to try some in my NW Trade Gun (no choke).

Also, do you think the damaging effects of steel shot could be tempered with a paper shot cup? I can't bring myself to put plastic shot cups in a flintlock.
 
Russianblood said:
Also, do you think the damaging effects of steel shot could be tempered with a paper shot cup? I can't bring myself to put plastic shot cups in a flintlock.

In my opinion, a heavy paper shot cup should contain it for the length of the barrel, something heavy like parchment should do fine...

You can always double wrap it if need be...
 
Hate to disagree here but i would be real concerned about trying a paper cup for steel shot. They say not to even use it in the plastic shot cups designed for lead, only in the Heavy Plastic cups designed for Steel shot. I would hate to damage the barrel on an expensive Tradegun by taking the chance. I know what Russianblood means about hating to use Plastic in it, but it may be the way to go so he doesn't take a chance on barrel damage. JMO
 
Rebel: The man is asking about plated lead shot, not steel shot. Musketman is correct. Nickle plated lead shot is safe to use in a muzzle loading shotgun or smoothbore barrel, because it is still softer than the steel used in the barrels. However, since we are talking about plating, which may only be .001" thick, or 1/3 the thickness of a piece of notebook paper, it might be wise to use a paper shot cut to contain the shot, and protect the shot from having the plating rubbed off in the barrel as it moves down the barrel during firing. The point of plating shot is to help it stay round, and not develope flats by rubbing against the side of the bore. Flats cause the shot to almost instantly slow on leaving the brrrel, and leave the central core of the shot pattern traveling down range. Flat shot usually won't make it to a 25 yd target, no matter how much powder you put in the load.

So, while the poster is concerned about damaging his shotgun barrel by using nickle plated shot, he should be thinking about why he wanted to use nickle plated shot in the first place, and take the extra effort to make up a paper shot wad, to protect that expensive plated shot. He can use plastic, but the folks here tend to abhor the idea, and if you are shooting a smoothbore gun that has no choke, you can do as well using paper shot wads. Parchment is expensive, and has to be bought in a fairly large quantity in most stores for them to bother ordering it for you. I use the 3M post-it notes to roll wads for shot. Wrap the paper around twice to have the strength to keep the wad together while it travels the barrel. Trim the roll to size for the gauge you are shooting, and make a template to speed up the making of these wads. The glue strip on the note makes a great and convenient way to hold the tube together when it is rolled. I use a 20 gauge cushion wad in the bottom of my tube, and fold over the end of the tube just as I would a penny or dime wrap for a roll of coins. Then I dip the end into parafin wax, stand it on some wax paper to cool, remove it from the wood dowel I use as a mandrill, and make up another tube. Once you settle on a shot charge, you can trim the length of the roll so it contains just the shot, and has no extra length. After pushing the shot wad into the barrel, fill it with shot, put a overshot card on top of it, and drive the package home. I use a over powder card on top of the powder to seal the gases. I lube a 1/2 cushion wad and put that on top of the over powder card wad. I have been using moose milk, but am going to switch to mineral oil.
 
Paul, the man also asked about STEEL SHOT and that is what i was refering to. As far as the plated shot goes i have No experience using it, so i didn't comment on it. I have shot a lot of steel though.
 
I missed that. I am sorry. I think your comments on steel shot are absolutely correct.

I do think we can start trying other non-toxic shot, and that the newest, " Heavishot " can be used in place of lead and throw good patterns, without damaging old barrels. I would still wrap the Heavishot in a paper or plastic shot wad, but I am less concerned about damaging Heavishot than I am plated shot. The current cost of Heavishot is what keeps me from getting into it very much. That, and the fact that I don't have a choked barrel, either jug choke, or screw in, to take advantage of the heavishot for waterfowl. I have been goose hunting, and the shots tend to be very long, at least for the Canada geese. I don't think it would be worth the expense of going if I could only take my open bore, using heavishot or steel.
 
No apology needed, i was just pointing out that he did ask about both types of shot. I used #1 steel for a few years hunting Canada geese and ducks before i moved over here. I had decent luck with it but tried to keep my shots to under 30 yds. I did a lot of jump shooting of them off the river, and was able to get close before shooting. I used my Navy Arms double barrel .12 ga with cylinder bore barrels for it. Can't afford to duck and goose hunt with Heavy Shot or Bismuth.
 
paulvallandigham said:
I do think we can start trying other non-toxic shot, and that the newest, " Heavishot " can be used in place of lead and throw good patterns, without damaging old barrels.

:nono: Hevi-shot is even harder than steel shot and should NEVER be used in a muzzleloader! :nono:

From Ballistic Products:
Hevi·Shot™ is comprised of tungsten alloy (tungsten is an element which is harder than steel/iron), nickel, and iron (approximately the same hardness of shotgun barrels). Hevi·Shot™ pellets must be contained within a specially manufactured, purpose-built shotcup, without which pellet contact with the barrel and subsequent damage to the barrel (such as scoring and pitting) becomes likely.

Bismuth is rated safe for older shotgun barrels but it's brittle and very expensive.

I guess I'll try the nickel plated shot for squirrels and forgo waterfowl hunting with my muzzleloaders. :(
 
Russianblood said:
Also, do you think the damaging effects of steel shot could be tempered with a paper shot cup?
No, it won't...shot cups for steel shot are the strongest hardest plastic of any modern high quality shotcup made so that should tell us something.

Paper won't protect the bore from steel...even the #6 lead shot I used in my paper shot cups had pressed/pinched through many places of the double wrap of paper I used...and lead is soft like butter compared to steel shot.

You might consider Bismuth...has the weight and performance of lead but not the negatives of steel...a little pricey...but if you're not actually going to shoot a lot of it, that might not be an issue
 
I shoot nickle plated shot in my muzzleloaders and never had any problems paper cup or no cups.
I checked into it before I started using it and what info. I could find said it wouldn't harm the barrel.
Never used steel shot.
 
one last word about nickle plated shot.. for fast realoading, target shooting, and heavey hunting situations where you dont need shot cups, like opening day on pheasants it is simply the best.. most importantly it wont lead up the barrel, this giving better round ball accuracy, and it cleans up like you were shooting a patched round ball.. good luck dave..
 

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