No Sandpaper

[Hoyt]

I'm thinking about using scrapers only on this next gun.
I just refinished my smoothbore and used scrapers quiet a bit, but chickened out on using them for the final prep.
I noticed when I finished the maple stock the first time that to make it show room new looking it took a lot more finishing than walnut stocks. Every little almost scratch blooms when finish is applied...it's got to be glass smooth after last sanding to keep it that way. However..if I go with the old and used look that won't be a bad thing and that's why I'm thinking about using scrapers only on this next gun. Anybody out there only use scrapers?

 

[rich pierce]

I use less and less sandpaper but never "none". I use a variety of tools- scrapers, needle files, etc. and for abrasives I also use "scouring rush" also known as "horsetail" or "Equisetum" (Latin name) stalks. Maple will show every scratch. When done staining and sealing, I rub or burnish the stock with antler to smooth it and you'll be amazed how well this works. I found if I burnish before staining and sealing, it prevents full penetration of stain and sealant.

 

[BillinOregon]

I think Rich is on the right track. I haven't used horsetail and burnishing on a gunstock yet, but I am very pleased with the effect when making atlatls out of yew, juniper and other woods. I apply home-rendered beaver oil before burnishing with an antler tine. Shore makes the wood shine. By the way, horsetail really is an excellent sandpaper, even fresh picked. I like to use it after it has dried a few days, though. Rub with the horsetail perpendicular to the work as it is the fine ribbing on the stalk that does the sanding. I believe horsetail uses a lot of silica in its cell walls, which gives it very fine abrasive qualities.

 

[djnye]

i carve a lot of highly figured maple including birdseye and almost exclusively scrape--save situations where some abrasion is "the way to go". actually, i use paper mostly to "magnify" areas that need more attention to achieve the surface and contour i am looking for. scraping is a shearing cut and presents a very debrisless surface with little loading of the fine pores--something paper doesn't do. as mentioned above, i also work the surface right through the first several thinned finish coats--usually tung oil for the clarity.

take care, daniel

 

[Tom Curran]

I've been using just scrapers for my last coupple of guns, and I am very pleased with the finish I get. I do a fair amount of relief carving, so I make scrapers of various sizes and shapes to get into the nooks and crannies.
I won't go into the sharpening part of this, but if you know about WOODCRAFT woodworking supply store, they provide instructions on all kinds of processes including how to sharpen your scrapers.
I use the scraper right after rasping and filing the stock. If there are areas of relief carving, there's nothing like the scraper to get in and around the raised areas.

 

[Hoyt]

Thanks for all the good info. I tried burnishing with antler...only I did it after smoothing out with last of the scrapers. I will definitely use it after I apply the stain and sealer now that I know.

 

[riarcher]

Sandpaper is for roughing.
Havn't done stocks, but do/did a lot of wood working in archery and carvings.
Scrapers follow sanding. Offer more control in amount removed and where. Scrapers are cheap! I often make my own out of old spoons and butter knives. Grind them into the shapes you want for curls, curves, corners, etc.
Then burnish (more old spoons :
6-8 spoons and knives in a yardsale is $0.25 th $1.00. That's cheap! and works better.
After the nice heavy burnish, go back to finish scraping the high points (you'll see by the shine). Now oil and finish burnish as you go over the area. Watch the glare (polish burnish) and work it shinyer (smoother) as you go.
Pores dissapear, grain really comes out (even in "box" wood)the surface gets hardened (compressed) Simply "looks like a million bucks". :imo: eace: