No side plate screws???

[tom in nc]

Lock plate screw ends are clearly visible, flush with the outside of the plate as is the norm, but no screw heads on the other side.
Pry off/out the side plate and there they are! This is the Spanish made .36 caliber long rifle that I bought today. The side plate inletting work is fair, better than some I've seen, but not like on my T/C guns. The side plate is rather thin, about half the thickness I'm used to seeing. I can see the plate falling off during use, and not being worried about the originality, or the lack thereof, of the gun, I think I'll add a couple of small brass screws at a couple of points to retain the plate.
I'm wondering if I should just use wood screws or go the extra and put in threaded inserts for machine screws.

 

[tom in nc]

Kinda makes me wonder if this rifle was ever fired or has been a wallhanger. There are no signs of having been fired that I see.

 

[SDSmlf]

I think I'll add a couple of small brass screws at a couple of points to retain the plate.

I would suggest steel screws rather than brass. Just looks better, plus, steel is more appropriate as far as I know.

 

[tom in nc]

I would suggest steel screws rather than brass. Just looks better, plus, steel is more appropriate as far as I know.

Point taken, I appreciate the advice. I thought brass because the plate is (thin) brass, maybe not obvious in my pics.

 

[deerstalkert]

or you could do it right and get some screws from totw that are long enough to go through the plate and into the lock plate.
looks to me like someone glued that sideplate in with hot gun glue.

 

[SDSmlf]

Point taken, I appreciate the advice. I thought brass because the plate is (thin) brass, maybe not obvious in my pics.

If you are serious about ‘correcting’ things you could spot holes through the side plate and just use longer screws. Personally, not sure I care for the side plate or screw location and would consider a new side plate. Easy to make.

 

[SDSmlf]

FYI, I was typing while @deerstalkert was posting.

 

[TDM]

Agree with @SDSmlf and @deerstalkert. Fix it right with slightly longer bolts. Your side plate will work, though the forward bolt will overhang a bit.

 

[Eric Krewson]

All you need to hold the plate and keep it from falling out is the top screw, it has the hole the hole fairly well centered and would be easy to replace with a longer screw. Leave the front screw hidden.

 

[Colonial Boy]

All you need to hold the plate and keep it from falling out is the top screw, it has the hole the hole fairly well centered and would be easy to replace with a longer screw. Leave the front screw hidden.

And perplexity for some future owner, but I like the idea; it’ll look right and fixes the problem.

 

[tom in nc]

Yeah, I think that's what I'll do. I'm thinking about inletting the trigger guard a little more too.

 

[coupe]

Tom, take care inletting the guard take a good look at the front trigger to guard gap, may have to shorten the trigger some.

 

[deerstalkert]

FYI, I was typing while @deerstalkert was posting.

i spend my day trying to get a word in edgewise with my verbose bride.
guess i got a word in here! happy dog!

 

[longcruise]

If you leave the front bolt coverd you will still need to remove the side plate to remove the lock.

Do as suggested and spot for holes from the lock side and drill the plate. If the bolts aren't long enough just replace them.

 

[SDSmlf]

And perplexity for some future owner, but I like the idea; it’ll look right and fixes the problem.

The old hidden screw trick….

 

[Crow#21957]

Since it's percussion I would put one steel screw through the pate and in to the lock. Only the top scree.

 

[2 shots]

builder likely didnt have a drill motor ..fix it right

 

[Colonial Boy]

You could put a false screw, centred on the correct position on the plate, which would improve the appearance and when some future owner screws it out he’ll twig that some thing is amiss.