Non PC Sights
- Thread starter kmeyer
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Once you get the right load worked up, and sighted in for it, there is seldom any good reason for the sights to be adjustable. For longer range than 50yrds, it is easy enough to hold over.
For everything out to 80 yards, I either hold up or down a little. No need to adjust the sights for that. I don't shoot at game beyond that range.
CrackStock
69 Cal.
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I see that you mention that this is a gun intended for hunting, so the answer will become apparent late in this message, but I wanted to answer the whole question about sight selection.
If you wanted a serious target gun that is adjustable for the conditions of each day or even adjustable for each particular target, you might want a Lyman tang sight.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/categories...rtNum=RS-57-SML
The sight has a repeatable zero point and I know guys who use the zero and keep a notebook for picking a favorite target sighting point for each target and then have indicated the clicks from the zero point to achive that aiming point. These guys were quite impressive in doing this.
While I have been a target shooter, I am not interested in working that hard or keeping such records.
I know people who like the older T/C flat top adjustable sights for target work. They would adjust these for a particular day's wind and light conditions as the sight picture is clean and the clicks are quite uniform. Some adjusted for distance, while others adjusted mentally as is suggested by Claude.
If you want a standard field gun and will shoot an occasional match, you might want something that is moderately adjustable. When I wanted that, I used the California semi buck horns:
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/categories...artNum=RS-CA-SB
on my first rifle project. It allowed my to adjust at times through the use of the allen Wrenches. Not click adjustable, but quarter turns were somewhat predictable. It never moved on me unless I was purposely adjusting it and was a good picture. This is an example of a compromise sight. While I have never been turned away from a match, it is possible that this could happen as it is technically an adjustable sight.
(I also have never adjusted these sights during such a match and have always submitted it for inspection.)
While I really like the California semi buckhorns best, I now just get fixed sights and tap or file them til they work and live with them from then on. No moving parts is a good feature and the cost is too.
You will likely hear that some of these are not period correct, but you should also be aware that almost no available sights are truly correct these days as they are all too high, square or open. True early front sights were very low and thin and the rear openings were not normally as open or shaped the same, so very few modern built longrifles have anything resembling period correct sights.
YMHS,
CrackStock
If you wanted a serious target gun that is adjustable for the conditions of each day or even adjustable for each particular target, you might want a Lyman tang sight.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/categories...rtNum=RS-57-SML
The sight has a repeatable zero point and I know guys who use the zero and keep a notebook for picking a favorite target sighting point for each target and then have indicated the clicks from the zero point to achive that aiming point. These guys were quite impressive in doing this.
While I have been a target shooter, I am not interested in working that hard or keeping such records.
I know people who like the older T/C flat top adjustable sights for target work. They would adjust these for a particular day's wind and light conditions as the sight picture is clean and the clicks are quite uniform. Some adjusted for distance, while others adjusted mentally as is suggested by Claude.
If you want a standard field gun and will shoot an occasional match, you might want something that is moderately adjustable. When I wanted that, I used the California semi buck horns:
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/categories...artNum=RS-CA-SB
on my first rifle project. It allowed my to adjust at times through the use of the allen Wrenches. Not click adjustable, but quarter turns were somewhat predictable. It never moved on me unless I was purposely adjusting it and was a good picture. This is an example of a compromise sight. While I have never been turned away from a match, it is possible that this could happen as it is technically an adjustable sight.
(I also have never adjusted these sights during such a match and have always submitted it for inspection.)
While I really like the California semi buckhorns best, I now just get fixed sights and tap or file them til they work and live with them from then on. No moving parts is a good feature and the cost is too.
You will likely hear that some of these are not period correct, but you should also be aware that almost no available sights are truly correct these days as they are all too high, square or open. True early front sights were very low and thin and the rear openings were not normally as open or shaped the same, so very few modern built longrifles have anything resembling period correct sights.
YMHS,
CrackStock
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I agree that once things are sighted in, you don't really need adjustable sights at usual ranges. Just a matter of a little drifting and filing initially to get things right on with primitive (non-adjustable) sights. Then you can pretty much forget about messing with sight adjustments.
At that point I draw the line however. As my eyes age I find some sights easier to see than others. When it comes to getting something on the barrel that lets me keep shooting, I am not bound by PC. Variables include: barrel length, distance between my eye and the rear sight, size of rear sight opening relative to width of the front sight, height of front and rear, shape of front sight, color of front sight (gotta be black for me now- no more German silver or brass).
At that point I draw the line however. As my eyes age I find some sights easier to see than others. When it comes to getting something on the barrel that lets me keep shooting, I am not bound by PC. Variables include: barrel length, distance between my eye and the rear sight, size of rear sight opening relative to width of the front sight, height of front and rear, shape of front sight, color of front sight (gotta be black for me now- no more German silver or brass).
I have a CVA Big Bore Mountain Rifle. It came with an adjustable sight that most people think looks OK. My eyes are getting older so on my last build, I found a similar sight from Dixie and put it on. It gives me a little extra time to shoot. With it, I can shoot morning, noon and evening. Without it, my eyes need all the help they can get so I don't shoot well early in the morning on late afternoon. I have it set in the lowest notch and have never adjusted it for elevation. I use it because it works for me. This is one case of PC be da--ed, I wanna shoot! :cry:
