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NOXEMA face cream as a lube? am I nuts?

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bwhoffman

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As I am at WallyWorld waiting for the family to get their stuff, I start reading the lable of this stuff.....
INGREDIENTS:
Water, Stearic Acid, Linseed Oil, Soybean Oil, Fragrance, Ammonium Hydroxide, Camphor, Menthol, Eucalyptus Oil, Propylene Glycol, Gelatin, Calcium Hydroxide.



figured my gramma put this stuff liberaly on her face daily for about 70 years and it aint corroded away...yet!

what are the effects of STEARIC acid and Hydroxides on steel???
anyone have a clue?
thinking that the lube quality,cost for a jar of this stuff is like 3 bucks for 10 oz of the wallyworld labled stuff ect.

just an idea, not using it now, merely a thought.

let me know what you guys think!

Brett
 
Brett, if your looking for a good, cheap, lube, use dish soap. Ivory dish soap and a bit of water go a long way, for about two bucks. The fellow that told me about it said that you clean the barrel every time you pull the trigger. Leon
 
Leon,
I got a good lube, along with my other favorite...Moose Juice.

This is on of those things that makes one go..."ummm, I wonder...."

Brett
 
I haven't used it but I used skin lotion containing cocoa butter with good results before I thought of using my Go-Jo hand cleaner as combo lube/cleaner. I carry it in a squeeze tube on my treks where I may be out 2-3 days. A few patches wet with this stuff at the end of the day get's it cleaned up enuff to do. I also plug the nipple with a splinter and fill the barrel with boiling water before and after I use the stuff on patches, then dry patch and reload.
Some other fellers use it or Goop or permatex Blue Label also. Another adds some olive oil to it but I use it as is, works great and seems to share some ingredients with 'Moose Snot'
 
Blizzard; The GoJo I have has pumice in it. I would not use it for a patch lube on a dime! I don't know what kind you are using, but I hope it doesn't have abrasives in it like mine does. The soap is wonderful, but the abrasive does nasty things to a barrel.
 
Rubbing Alcohol and Murphy's Oil Soap mixed to your own needs and conditions. This is about as cheap as it gets and has been used by many shooters for decades without problems. I keep the alcohol around anyway, so it is just one more cheap ingredient.

This is generally thin enough to be easily used in a spray bottle.

CS
 
Without doing further research, I would stay away from anything with "OXIDE" in it.

Ammonium hydroxide, although it doesn't exist as an isolatable chemical compound, is a name sometimes given to an aqueous solution of ammonia. Aqueous solutions of ammonia are also commonly referred to as aqua ammonia.

Aqueous ammonium hydroxide can also dissolve various metal oxides and hydroxides, such as copper(II) hydroxide to form ammine complexes. In such cases, the active agent is the ammonia, not the hydroxide salt. Solutions of ammonium hydroxide can also dissolve reactive metals such as aluminum and zinc, with the liberation of hydrogen gas.
Click to expand...
 
Even though it may not be present in large quantities, the active ingredient is Ammonia. It will dissolve most anything, but it is also corrosive if left to its own. I wouldnt use it if it were me.

We used to use some Calcium Hydroxide at the ranch and it is real corrosive. That is essentially the solution that they put in tractor tires for extra weight. It will not freeze. It will however eat the rims up on your tractor. I'm sure that it is in small concentrations but is used to balance the stearic acid towards a neutral pH. Sodium Hydroxide is lye. Calcium and Sodium are sisters on the periodic table. I am sure that it it good for night cream, but I still wouldnt use it in my gunbarrel.
 
Thanks Claude,
That is the answer I was looking for!
It felt good, read good, but was not sure on the hydroxides.

was just wondering...


Olive oil works well for me!...and stumpy's...and murphy's....and bee's wax

Brett
 
brett sr said:
As I am at WallyWorld waiting for the family to get their stuff, I start reading the lable of this stuff.....
INGREDIENTS:
Water, Stearic Acid, Linseed Oil, Soybean Oil, Fragrance, Ammonium Hydroxide, Camphor, Menthol, Eucalyptus Oil, Propylene Glycol, Gelatin, Calcium Hydroxide.




figured my gramma put this stuff liberaly on her face daily for about 70 years and it aint corroded away...yet!

what are the effects of STEARIC acid and Hydroxides on steel???
anyone have a clue?
thinking that the lube quality,cost for a jar of this stuff is like 3 bucks for 10 oz of the wallyworld labled stuff ect.

just an idea, not using it now, merely a thought.

let me know what you guys think!

Brett
Click to expand...

Stearic acid is used in formulating and stabilizing mixtures, my favorite use is in making Felix Lube for lubing cast bullets.

[url] http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=felix+lube+stearic+acid[/url]
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I just had a fella tell me murphy's has a caustic element in it. :hmm:
It is not good for the barrel or your glasses lenses..speckles the lenses.
 
Blizzard of '93 said:
I haven't used it but I used skin lotion containing cocoa butter with good results before I thought of using my Go-Jo hand cleaner as combo lube/cleaner.
Click to expand...

Hate to rain on a parade, but be VERY CAREFUL about those products. Just about all of those "waterless" hand cleaners have PETROLEUM DISTILLATES in them. You need to check the ingredients VERY CLOSELY. I'm pretty certain you don't want to use anything with PUMICE (an abrasive) in it. How do I know about this? I already went down that path, and almoust ruined a brand new rifle--I did get it cleaned up, but it had already done the damage. It lost about 15-20% (estimation) due to rust in the bore.

It was a friend-neighbor-fellow muzzleloader who is a chemical engineer that told me about the stuff one time when he saw what I was using to lube and clean up with. Yes, the stuff did work, but I didn't like the possible negative effects. There are lots of products out there that would work as a lube, that I wouldn't want to use for cleaning purposes. They seem to sneak those dang (expensive) petroleum products into everything anymore... The "all natural" versions of lube & cleaners are the safest, but anymore who can tell what's in those, 'cause they don't list the ingredients--look on a tube of Bore Butter and try to find out specifically what's in there.

I had what I thought was a neat idea--using generic "muscle rub" cream (ICY HOT,BEN GAY, ETC...), and the generic Wal-Mart "Equate" brand seemed to work really well for lube. Never used it for clean-up. Anyway, found out it has STEARIC ACID and POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE as ingredients. Now granted, those things may or may not be bad and they may only be in the most tiny quantity in the product... but I don't want to ruin a nice shooter or a good lookin' muzzleloader. I don't have the finances to do much in the way of replacments anymore (Heck, why do you think I'm looking for inexpensive ways to come up with lube/cleaner?)

Just be cautious with trying out these various possibilities, and make sure to clean them out very very well afterwards. Of course, that defeats part of the purpose--an easier clean-up...

Thanks for letting me ramble on...
WV_Hillbilly
 
brett sr said:
what are the effects of STEARIC acid and Hydroxides on steel???
anyone have a clue?
Click to expand...

We use Stearic Acid (powder form) in the rubber industry to make the rubber more plyable and the steel tubs the Stearic Acid is stored in seems OK...

Wikipedia Link

As an added bonus, the NOXEMA face cream should make it so you can shoot those wrinkled hand cast roundballs, it does clean blemishes... :grin:
 
You and Paul V. are correct in the statement about pumice powder in Go-Jo, but this is the 'orange' container, use only the white stuff- comes in white tub. Uncertain about whether Goop of Permatex have a pumice-powder variety, I'm familiar with only the white tub variety of each which is very much like Go-Jo near as I can tell.
I've never bought into the 'seasoned barrel' school myself even though I once used plain lard, natural lube and maxi-lube as patch lube- I can't tell any difference with Go-Jo which does better than anything I've so far found as a combo lube/cleaner. But then I dry patch after every shot except for fast reload when hunting.
When cleaning at home after shooting/hunting/trekking I do the usual scalding hot soapy water routine, brush and mop, dry and use mil-spec gun oil inside and out, lock and all. I've let my guns sit for months thus treated and had only minor brown stain when dry-patching before loading - they will be here and shooting good when I ain't as near I can tell.
:thumbsup:
 
Well, thought I would throw it out here as a potential. enough feedback to answer my curiosity.

not going to consider it as the hydroxides are againt it.
Thanks for all the feedback, thats what I was looking for!

Dang, this is a great forum...with just enough humor thrown in for "brown trout and chuckles" :rotf:

Brett
 

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