oFly Problem

[Ed Grubaugh]

:hmm: Like lost. I know, I know, everybody says watch your fly. Well I thought I was but it up and flew off. Going to order one from Track, but heard they had to be fitted. How hard is that to do? Maybe need to order two, huh?

Also, got a flint, lock kit. Marked on the back of plate R.T.G. Looks like a early ketland. Had it for years, didn't do as good a job on the tumbler as I would like. Thought I'd order another if I can find the maker. Any Ideas?

Thanks for all your help. Ed

 

[Zonie]

You didn't tell us what kind of lock the fly is from.
I will confess, I have never had to replace a L&R locks fly so my experiance is with Silar locks and my GPR.

The Silar locks fly that comes with their castings kit only needed to be cleaned up a little, hardened and put in place in the tunbler.
Worked every time without special fitting.

The GPR fly I had to replace, (the former owner lost it) came hardened.
When I installed it, it would stop the hammer from falling when I slowly lowered the hammer from full cock.
Seems it was a might too long to allow the sear to jump over it easily so with just a little honeing with an oil-stone it was fixed.

It probably would have worked without the honing if I released the hammer with the trigger and just let it fall but I like my locks to work smoooothly.

Jim

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Hey Ed,
I am just an old carpenter, and a while back I needed a fly for a gun that came without one. In Buchele's book Recreating the Kentucky Rifle he has a page on making one. I used a maze nail for material.(Round and hardend for concrete penetration) The nail shaft is your pin, and the head of course is at 90 deg. for the pie shape. If I remember it was not all that hard to make. Just anneal the nail, work it with a file and hacksaw to fit. After fitting is complete, then hardened and temper. :thumbsup:
Flintlocks Forever,
Lar