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oil cloth
- Thread starter TARGUY
- Start date
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I've had good luck using cotton canvas and linseed oil.
Here is something I copied from the Net a while back (I'd give credit, but have no idea where I found it).
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Original oil cloth was made using linseed oil with an added pigment. Linseed oil "dries" by polymerization when exposed to atmospheric oxygen. This process takes considerable time. Atmospheric moisture and ambient temperature affect this hardening process. In the past, true boiled (processed by boiling it under a vacuum) was available. Most "boiled" linseed oil today is produced by adding a drying agent to speed hardening.
In preparing our linseed oil for application to the cloth, we ran a few test pieces by adding a drier (Japan drier available at most hardware and paint stores) to our oil. Drier was added in increments until the oil would harden in a reasonable period of time (about a day). With this particular oil we had to add almost an equal amount of drier to get the desired drying time. After establishing the proper mixture, we added oil-based pigment (available at craft and art supply stores) for the desired color.
To prevent sticking of the bag to the wooden frame, a plastic bag was placed over the frame before positioning the canvas bag on it. Three coats of sizing (if you want to be authentic use starch prepared the same as for starching clothes or a paste made by boiling wheat flour as was done for preparing a wheat paste for wall paper for sizing) were applied to the bag before treating with the linseed oil. Allow the bag to dry THOROUGHLY after each coat. According to old literature the sizing protects the fibers of the canvas from the oil. Probably, the sizing prevents the oil from loosening the fibers of the cloth. In certain methods the cloth would be rubbed with pumice blocks to smooth the fibers before treating with sizing. This gave a smooth finish for making oil cloth floor and wall coverings. Since rubbing the cloth with pumice, may weaken the fibers, we omitted this step. We wanted the bag to remain strong.
The oil/drier mixture was very thin. It was applied with a soft bristle brush and allowed to dry THOROUGHLY between coats. The number of coats depends upon the desired finish. Three or four coats usually gives a good pliable water resistant finish.
Compared to the bag prepared with current oil based paint, the linseed oil treated bag was more pliable. When fully died the linseed oil treated bag will be slightly "tacky" to the touch. To check for dryness, we briskly rubbed the bag our fingers followed by a rubbing with a piece of untreated canvas to see if any of the finish rubbed off. If the finish rubs off on the fingers let it dry until it passes both tests. Apply the coats evenly. Drying time will lengthen with each coat; consequently, be patient. Let it dry. If a new coat of oil is applied over one that has not dried, the finish may "gum" and not dry. Provide a well-ventilated area for the treated cloth to dry. Humidity, temperature, etc., affect drying time. Be patient. If it takes two or three days or longer for the cloth to dry, so be it. Time to linseed oil and a hog is of little essence. Generally, two to three coats of oil are sufficient.
Pigment for the oil can be found at a paint store or artist supply. Some experimentation is required to get the desired amount of pigment. Various hues can used to get an "antiqued" look with the final coat of oil.
Various objects of oil cloth, such as ground cloths or ponchos can be made by the above method. Store oil cloth in a well ventilated dry area. Damp storage conditions can cause mildew to form on the oil cloth.
During damp weather or under hot conditions the cloth may be tacky. Extreme cold may cause the oil cloth to be brittle.
NOTE: Under certain conditions, linseed oil soaked rags can undergo spontaneous combustion. When applying linseed oil to cloth provide adequate ventilation while the oil is drying. Dispose properly of any rage, paper, etc. used to clean up any spilled oil.
Here is something I copied from the Net a while back (I'd give credit, but have no idea where I found it).
-------------------------------
Original oil cloth was made using linseed oil with an added pigment. Linseed oil "dries" by polymerization when exposed to atmospheric oxygen. This process takes considerable time. Atmospheric moisture and ambient temperature affect this hardening process. In the past, true boiled (processed by boiling it under a vacuum) was available. Most "boiled" linseed oil today is produced by adding a drying agent to speed hardening.
In preparing our linseed oil for application to the cloth, we ran a few test pieces by adding a drier (Japan drier available at most hardware and paint stores) to our oil. Drier was added in increments until the oil would harden in a reasonable period of time (about a day). With this particular oil we had to add almost an equal amount of drier to get the desired drying time. After establishing the proper mixture, we added oil-based pigment (available at craft and art supply stores) for the desired color.
To prevent sticking of the bag to the wooden frame, a plastic bag was placed over the frame before positioning the canvas bag on it. Three coats of sizing (if you want to be authentic use starch prepared the same as for starching clothes or a paste made by boiling wheat flour as was done for preparing a wheat paste for wall paper for sizing) were applied to the bag before treating with the linseed oil. Allow the bag to dry THOROUGHLY after each coat. According to old literature the sizing protects the fibers of the canvas from the oil. Probably, the sizing prevents the oil from loosening the fibers of the cloth. In certain methods the cloth would be rubbed with pumice blocks to smooth the fibers before treating with sizing. This gave a smooth finish for making oil cloth floor and wall coverings. Since rubbing the cloth with pumice, may weaken the fibers, we omitted this step. We wanted the bag to remain strong.
The oil/drier mixture was very thin. It was applied with a soft bristle brush and allowed to dry THOROUGHLY between coats. The number of coats depends upon the desired finish. Three or four coats usually gives a good pliable water resistant finish.
Compared to the bag prepared with current oil based paint, the linseed oil treated bag was more pliable. When fully died the linseed oil treated bag will be slightly "tacky" to the touch. To check for dryness, we briskly rubbed the bag our fingers followed by a rubbing with a piece of untreated canvas to see if any of the finish rubbed off. If the finish rubs off on the fingers let it dry until it passes both tests. Apply the coats evenly. Drying time will lengthen with each coat; consequently, be patient. Let it dry. If a new coat of oil is applied over one that has not dried, the finish may "gum" and not dry. Provide a well-ventilated area for the treated cloth to dry. Humidity, temperature, etc., affect drying time. Be patient. If it takes two or three days or longer for the cloth to dry, so be it. Time to linseed oil and a hog is of little essence. Generally, two to three coats of oil are sufficient.
Pigment for the oil can be found at a paint store or artist supply. Some experimentation is required to get the desired amount of pigment. Various hues can used to get an "antiqued" look with the final coat of oil.
Various objects of oil cloth, such as ground cloths or ponchos can be made by the above method. Store oil cloth in a well ventilated dry area. Damp storage conditions can cause mildew to form on the oil cloth.
During damp weather or under hot conditions the cloth may be tacky. Extreme cold may cause the oil cloth to be brittle.
NOTE: Under certain conditions, linseed oil soaked rags can undergo spontaneous combustion. When applying linseed oil to cloth provide adequate ventilation while the oil is drying. Dispose properly of any rage, paper, etc. used to clean up any spilled oil.
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