oil skin

[Greenmtnboy]

Hay guys I am about to oilskin a canvas frock I made.
I plan on using beezewax and deer tallow.
whats your thoughts :hatsoff:

 

[bnail]

Hey Greenmtnboy:
I've entertained that thoughjt as well. I've treated my canvas bags this way, and it's always turned out well enough that I've always wanted to try it on a flat tarp. I think it's worth a try. The trick, I'd say is to get the mix to thouroughly impregnate the material, as I've had it pill up in the creases of some of my projects where it never penetrated completely.
good luck, and make sure to share your results. :hatsoff:

 

[Norskie]

They used linseed oil, back in the day. Maybe because it wasn't as tasty to the critturs.

 

Hay guys I am about to oilskin a canvas frock I made.
I plan on using beezewax and deer tallow.
whats your thoughts :hatsoff:

You've got way too much time on your hands and enough wax and tallow that you should be reselling it for profit!

 

[Greenmtnboy]

They used linseed oil, back in the day. Maybe because it wasn't as tasty to the critturs.

I linseeded my dropcloth but would perfer oilcloth on my body,
As for time on my hands I don't watch TV so I live for doing evening projects. Also being a hunter and guide I get a ton of fat to cook down to tallow every year. I have around 50 lbs of elk and deer fat in my freezer from last year i still need to cook down.
thanks fer the inputs

:hatsoff:

 

[TANSTAAFL]

Hay guys I am about to oilskin a canvas frock I made.
I plan on using beezewax and deer tallow.
whats your thoughts :hatsoff:

I would see nothing but problems with such a recipe for treating clothing. Heat & cold for starters, and that's enough for me to forgdabodit.

Linseed oil was traditional for oilskin. Oilskin clothing was originated by seamen. The sails were made from heavy linen and treated with linseed oil, the seamen used the sail cloth to make waterproof clothing. This was stiff and uncomfortable, later tightly woven lightweight Egyptian cotton cloth was treated with linseed oil, and some outerwear clothing is still commercially produced the same way today.

 

[Eric/WV]

Last week, I treated my canvas knapsack with a mixture of 50/50 boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. It was dry in a couple of days, and it worked great. I'm thinking about treating my frock next.

 

[Twisted_1in66]

Hay guys I am about to oilskin a canvas frock I made.
I plan on using beezewax and deer tallow.
whats your thoughts :hatsoff:

Hey Green Mountain Boy!

What you are describing is more of a waxed cotton type treatment, not too different from what Barbour uses today. You really need to like the smell of wax for that to work , because when the smell goes away, so does the waterproof protection. You will also need to re-treat it at least annually, or whenever you see dry patches in the material. These dry patches typically appear as lighter colored creases wherever the material bends a lot (elbows, etc.). For this treatment to really work well, the cotton needs to be "long staple" cotton, which basically means it has long fibers instead of the standard short fibers found in "normal" cotton. Egyptian long staple cotton is the best for this treatment.

"Back in the Day", oil cloths were made from boiled linseed oil cut 50/50 with turpentine to get the stuff to dry. It usually takes a few days to dry. If you use straight boiled linseed oil, the stuff won't ever dry out. The same 50/50 mix works well today.

BEWARE of using mineral spirits to cut the boiled linseed oil instead of turpentine. There's a real danger of spontaneous combustion. If you must use mineral spirits, make sure all of your scraps as well as your project are laid out flat to dry. Wadded up oily rags from boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits will generate a lot of heat and can spontaneously combust if left to their own devices.

Hope this helps,
Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:

 

[Brasilikilt]

[/quote] BEWARE of using mineral spirits to cut the boiled linseed oil instead of turpentine. There's a real danger of spontaneous combustion. If you must use mineral spirits, make sure all of your scraps as well as your project are laid out flat to dry. Wadded up oily rags from boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits will generate a lot of heat and can spontaneously combust if left to their own devices.

Hope this helps,
Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup: [/quote]


That's one reason why I'm not terribly eager to use linseed oil on my tarp.
I imagine that there is going to be a cold night where I might build the fire a little too close to the opening of my shelter and set all of me and my gear on fire

 

[Twisted_1in66]

BEWARE of using mineral spirits to cut the boiled linseed oil instead of turpentine. There's a real danger of spontaneous combustion. If you must use mineral spirits, make sure all of your scraps as well as your project are laid out flat to dry. Wadded up oily rags from boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits will generate a lot of heat and can spontaneously combust if left to their own devices.

Hope this helps,
Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:

That's one reason why I'm not terribly eager to use linseed oil on my tarp.
I imagine that there is going to be a cold night where I might build the fire a little too close to the opening of my shelter and set all of me and my gear on fire

The real danger of spontaneous combustion is while it's drying, not after it's dry. Of course, you still don't want to build a fire under it.

Saw some folks almost ignite their shelter on a cold October night at a Lake George reenactment in New York a few years ago. They learned the hard way to build the fire outside their tarp shelter and not under it. A few well placed kicks shoved it out of the shelter before it caught the overhang on fire, but it was close!

---------------------------
Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:

 

[blacksmithshoppe]

[quote=

"Back in the Day", oil cloths were made from boiled linseed oil cut 50/50 with turpentine to get the stuff to dry. It usually takes a few days to dry. If you use straight boiled linseed oil, the stuff won't ever dry out. The same 50/50 mix works well today.

With all due respect, it will dry out. You just have to wait it out. My stuff I have treated with 100% linseed oil dry's out on about four weeks. I have it hung outside paint one side let dry to the touch then paint the other. Leave it in the shade and let it go, like I said it takes about four weeks.
Jeff :thumbsup:

 

[Twisted_1in66]

With all due respect, it will dry out. You just have to wait it out. My stuff I have treated with 100% linseed oil dry's out on about four weeks. I have it hung outside paint one side let dry to the touch then paint the other. Leave it in the shade and let it go, like I said it takes about four weeks.
Jeff :thumbsup:

LOL....OK Jeff... It "almost" never dries out. You are one patient fellow. :shocked2:

Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup: