oiling after cleaning.

[Stumpkiller]

After cleaning and drying I use Birchwood-Casey
Sheath/Barricade and 24 hours later, run another patch down w/ Sheath/B.

Same here.

WD-40 is great at displacing water but isn't much of a protectant oil. Better than nothing, but there are many better choices.

I also prefer a wipe on as a spray gets stock wood and everything else in the vicinity.

 

[catman]

I use military spec machine gun oil they use on all of their aircraft & chopper guns. I have lots of it, never problem.

 

[longfowler]

WD-40! all the way, on everything. it's cheap, easy & plentiful...yes there is better stuff, but not much better. wd40 works on alot more than guns, too - I put it on cars & motorcyles, fishing tackle, you name it - it will not rust, even stored in my wet new england cellar. so unless you're trying to store something, say for as long as the pharohs did, wd40 is fine.

 

[LeMat1856]

.
. aug 24 / 7:45am

this is a great question because you will hear about practically every product and formula under the sun.

first, wd-40 is petroleum based and that's not good for guns - period.

second, you would want to be sure there isn't any rust (look for tiny red pinhole sized spots) already.. those would have to be scrubbed right down to base steel and then treated with the protectant.

my persolan favorite for short term oiling is birchwood-casey synthetic gun oil.. right after cleaning, however, i use aerosol ballistol to counter any tiny dropletts of water that may have been missed from drying as the barrel cools.. i rinse it in very hot tap water which heats the steel and aids in evaporation.

however, for long term rust prevention follow this:
HERE IS WHAT I HAVE FROM A VERY TRUSTED AND EXPERIENCED GUNSMITH REGARDING LONG TERM STORAGE AND GREASES:

"AUTOMOBILE OIL SHOULD NEVER BE USED BY A GUNSMITH, HOWEVER HIGHLY ADVERTISE AS "PURE".... PRESERVING A GUN FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME IN A HUMID CLIMATE, OR ONE WHICH HAS VARIATIONS IN TEMPERATURE, REQUIRES GREASE.. I CANNOT BRING MYSELF TO TRUST ANY OIL FOR LONG PERIODS OF TIME.. PROPERLY GREASING A BORE IS A CHORE FOR IT MUST BE PUT IN HOT (THE GREASE, THAT IS) IN ORDER TO SPREAD OVER ALL SURFACES AND INTO ALL CORNERS.. MERELY BLOBBING SOME GREASE ON A PATCH AND SHOVING IT THROUTH THE BARREL IS A FINE WAY TO PROMOTE RUST STREAKS..... ANY GUN GREASE ADVERTISED AS SUCH SHOULD BE SATISFACTORY.. LITHIUM OR G.I. COSMLINE IS A VERY HEAVY GREASE AND MUST BE HEATED FOR ANY USE.. NATURAL CLEAR RIG (RUST INHIBITING GREASE) ARE OF LIGHTER BODY AND CAN BE USED COLD.. THE PURPOSE OF GREASING A BARREL IS TO EXCLUDE ALL AIR FROM THE NAKED STEEL , AND THE PERFECT WAY WOULD BE TO FILL THE BORE - CHAMBER THROUGH MUZZLE - WITH SOLID GREASE OR COSMOLINE.." (ROY DUNLAP, GUNSMITHING: A MANUAL OF FIREARMS FOR AMATURE AND PROFESSIONAL GUNSMITHS, STACKPOLE BOOKS)

from your list, bore butter would be the best *if* you can be sure you are getting it into all the nooks and crannies inside the barrel and then check often to make sure it hasn't dried out.. reapply as needed.

hoppes #9 was recommended to me as a bore cleaner - not a lubricant.

deer tallow will go ransid and can't be relied on for long term.. however, long ago in the good old days, sperm whale oil was used on guns but you would have to check it and reapply as often as needed.

perhaps the most important answer is: how long do you need to store it and that will determine which product to use.. just make sure it isn't a petroleum based product.

~d~
p.s. remember that the chambers are actually extensions of the barrel and should be treated likewise - coat thoroughally after complete cleaning.

 

[Rat Trapper]

I clean my rifles with warm water out of the tap a soap. Once the barrel is dry, I run a patch down the barrel with Knight oil. Knight is a very light weight oil, but any other light weight oil should work. I remove the oil before I go to load it the next time.