Old Army Max Load

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rodwha

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I recently received a Ruger Old Army and have been looking for max loadings for it. I have come across conflicting info for it ranging from "as much as the cylinder will hold" from Ruger to anywhere from 40-50 grains of powder. So which is it (other than Ruger's statement)?
I've also read many conflicting reports of which is better for hunting, the round ball and higher (muzzle) velocity/energy, conical, or heavier SWC/FN bullet.
I'm chompin" at the bit to get to the range!
 
It's been a long time since I shot a cap and ball revolver so maybe I'm off base here but....
The max load IS the amount you can get in the chamber, but that is generally not the BEST load. And I would be surprised if you were able to get 50 grains,or even 40 grains of powder in an Old Army anyway. If you are target shooting you don’t need to kill the paper, it’s about as dead as it’s going to get.
I think most target shooters use small charges and fill between powder and ball with corn meal or something similar. Most of the time it is considered a good idea to have the ball seated as near the mouth of the chamber as possible.
 
From what I've gathered a 20-25 grn load is better when target shooting.
I'm more curious as to field use. A 10 grain difference is quite a bit (40-50 grins).
I've even read of someone able to pull out 700 ft/lbs. That I'm not so sure about. But I'd like to see something along the lines of 45 Colt performance.
 
I have an old army and I believe the recomended max charge is 40 grains. You can load more safely but accuracy will suffer. I loaded mine with 35 then 40 and the lighter charge was noticably more accurate.

Don
 
Accuracy is certainly an issue as well. Range time will tell me what I really need to know I suppose, but I'd be happy with a group size of several inches...
I like 2 holes if possible...
 
For a ROA ONLY, any charge of any BP you can fit in the cylinder is safe. However, I have gotten AMAZING accuracy by backing off that somewhat.

IIRC mine will hold 45gr by volume of Goex 2F. I don't have my notes here handy. That still allows room to seat a greased felt wad, and then start a ball w/o interference from the wad. That is very very important, because you want the ball to center itself in the mouth of the chamber. Seat it w/ firm pressure. The above load will cut cloverleafs at 20 yards from a rest if I do my part. My eyes won't let me do that for more than 1 or 2 groups. After that it will still stay 2" or below. And it is not clean vs dirty, because I can wait for a few cylinders to really strain my eyes, and the groups are just as tight.

A Ruger usually shoots pretty well with any load, just not as well as it will if you take the time to find what it likes.
 
Back in 1986 I settled on 25gr of Pyrodex P behind the ball.

Until it got busted last sunday it was still shooting that load into around 2" at 25m, gradually getting wusser to around 3" as we all got tired - one-hande shooting only in competition, BTW.

My only mod to mine has been a set of Herrett's ambidextrous wood grips, bought many moons ago from a store close-down for $10. As I shoot with either hand with great lack of success it does me just fine and looks good too.

tac
 
Mine will hold bout 45 grns of fffg an it shoots ok with that but it is very accurate with 30 grns so thats what I stick too :hatsoff:
 
Wattlebuster: I really like your motto!
What kind of patterns would you get with full loads and at what range(s)?
 
Generally, 4F is not safe in .44 revolvers. It can be ok in .31's and the standard frame .36's. It is dangerous in the dragoons and walkers.

Pyrodex wants about 80 lbs of compression, according to Hogdon. About all the rammer will stand on most revolvers. 2F wants somewhat less than that, and 3F likes it when you can just barely feel the powder grains crunching.

The guns shoot best when the velocity is cut back a little bit. Some people like corn meal for filler, I like Goex 2F for filler. 8) It has a softer recoil, less blast, and most of my guns like it a LOT.
 
Ruger claims for conicals to use a .454" bullet. But I keep finding people using and recommending .456" molds.
My chambers seem to run from .448-.451". It seems like .456" bullets may be quite a hassle to ram home. I'm wondering if .452" bullets are out of the question, or would give poor results. My barrel seems to be .447-8".
Does anyone have any flat-nosed 180-250 grn bullets/molds they would recommend for hunting with? I don't want to need to use a loading stand.
 
I've also read accounts of people casting bullets with wheel weights. Isn't that a bit too hard? Can it damage the loading ram?
 
I use wheel weight alloy for all my casting. With the hard alloy I use a cylinder loading press, so as not to strain the guns. I have an ASM 1860 Colt that became loose and I needed to repair the loose arbor, so I speak from my own experience.
 
I found that I will need old 3 screw Blackhawk grips, but can't seem to locate any online. Any ideas as to where to find them?
And is Classicballistx the only supplier for aftermarket percussion cylinders?
 
Old 3 screw Blackhawk grips can often be found for sale on eBay.
I don't know of any other credible aftermarket supplier of the ROA C&B cylinders besides Classicballistx/Kirst Konverters.

Beginning March 16, Classicballistx will be
associated with Kirst Konvertors LLC and VTI
GunParts, Inc. Production will be managed by
KK. KK and VTI will handle all retail sales.

Gunsmith and re-seller orders will be handled at
Classicballistx under direction of Raven's Roost, LLC.
http://classicballistx.com/[/quote]
 
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With 30 grns at 25 yrds I can keep all shots in about a circle the size of a baseball an if I bump up the load to 40 grns it will open up to a tad bigger than a softball :thumbsup:
 
HERE IS A FASCINATING FACT ABOUT THE STRENGTH OF THE OLD ARMY.

In R.L. Wilson's definitive work entitled, "Ruger & His Guns", Harry Sefried, the designer of the Old Army, proofed the revolver with a cylinder full of Bullseye and it held!!!!!!!!!!! See page 126 of the referenced book.
 
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