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Old Muzzleloader Identification Needed

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Salmonslayer

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Hello from Washington State! I inherited an old muzzleloader from my father that is obviously not in good shape but appears to be very old. I was wondering if anyone can identify the gun maker with this partial name and any history and possible manufacturing date would be awesome!
 
Welcome to the forum! We have alot of great and helpful members here, maybe someone can help. If only that old rifle could talk and give it's history!
 
The picture of the lock plate does not help identify your rifle. It appears to be a Goulcher/Golcher commercial lock purchased at the hardware store by the gunmaker. We need to see good pictures of the rifle itself, so we can see the stock profile, cheekpiece, lock bolt washer, shaping around rear pipe, and other details that better identify the maker's hand. It would greatly help if you could post the three "standard" views of your rifle normally used of identification purposes:

1. half-length view of front side, showing complete butt out to about 6" past lock plate,
2. half-length view of back side, showing complete butt out to about 6" past where lock is on other side,
3. full length view of front side of gun.

All pictures should be taken as directly over the gun, i.e., perpendicular to the rifle, as possible, avoiding angled views that distort dimensions and make one end harder to see than the other. Also, pictures should be in good light, so details are not hidden in dark areas or shadows.

It is important to check for any signature or initials on the top barrel flat several inches behind the rear sight, where most gunmakers signed their work. If anything is there, please take a clear picture of it, since it greatly helps identify the maker. Hope this gets you started on identifying your family rifle.

Shelby Gallien
 
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The picture of the lock plate does not help identify your rifle. It appears to be a Goulcher/Golcher commercial lock purchased at the hardware store by the gunmaker. We need to see good pictures of the rifle itself, so we can see the stock profile, cheekpiece, lock bolt washer, shaping around rear pipe, and other details that better identify the maker's hand. It would greatly help if you could post the three "standard" views of your rifle normally used of identification purposes:

1. half-length view of front side, showing complete butt out to about 6" past lock plate,
2. half-length view of back side, showing complete butt out to about 6" past where lock is on other side,
3. full length view of front side of gun.

All pictures should be taker as directly over the gun, i.e., perpendicular to the rifle, as possible, avoiding angled views that distort dimensions and make one end harder to see than the other. Also pictures should be in good light, so details are not hidden in dark areas or shadows.

It is important to check for any signature or initials on the top barrel flat several inches behind the rear sight, where most gunmakers signed their work. If anything is there, please take a clear picture of it, since it greatly helps identify the maker. Hope this gets you started on identifying your family rifle.

Shelby Gallien
Yours is a very good reply to the OP's question .well done.
John
 
The picture of the lock plate does not help identify your rifle. It appears to be a Goulcher/Golcher commercial lock purchased at the hardware store by the gunmaker. We need to see good pictures of the rifle itself, so we can see the stock profile, cheekpiece, lock bolt washer, shaping around rear pipe, and other details that better identify the maker's hand. It would greatly help if you could post the three "standard" views of your rifle normally used of identification purposes:

1. half-length view of front side, showing complete butt out to about 6" past lock plate,
2. half-length view of back side, showing complete butt out to about 6" past where lock is on other side,
3. full length view of front side of gun.

All pictures should be taker as directly over the gun, i.e., perpendicular to the rifle, as possible, avoiding angled views that distort dimensions and make one end harder to see than the other. Also pictures should be in good light, so details are not hidden in dark areas or shadows.

It is important to check for any signature or initials on the top barrel flat several inches behind the rear sight, where most gunmakers signed their work. If anything is there, please take a clear picture of it, since it greatly helps identify the maker. Hope this gets you started on identifying your family rifle.

Shelby Gallien

Good info, Shelby. I'd also recommend a few out-of-the-shadows pics of the left end of the lock plate to see if the Golcher guinea hens are present.
I have a H. Deringer rifle and a yet-to-be-identified rifle, both with Golcher lock plates. I'm tight on time but if you check my comments you should find some pics. Good luck to all.
 
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