Opinions Requested

[Buckskinn]

Well, I spent yesterday afternoon touching up a few areas and final sanding. Today I am planning on whiskering and hopefully treating with 5:1 Ferric Nitrate for first coat of Chambers Oil Stock Finish. I did a few test pieces with Laurel Mountain Stain, Aqua Fortis, FN and then finishing with the Chambers Oil. The FN gave me what I was looking for.

My question is, should I use several coats of Chambers Oil or go to TruOil or something of the like after I get the color I want. Wondering, since the Chambers is tinted, if it will continue to darken after several coats?

 

[45man]

I can not say bad too much since you are doing one of the hardest jobs ever, making a long rifle. I can turn out a modern stock in one day with hand tools but 6 months for a long gun is short. Many original guns were never near perfect either as they had to make them too fast. Only when you inlay metal and can't remove it again are you in the zone.
A small gap can be wet to swell some to fit but cutting right will not need that. Try pierced wood fitting without a gap. I made the patch box from sheet brass. Engrave AFTER and do not buy an engraved box.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

Well, I spent yesterday afternoon touching up a few areas and final sanding. Today I am planning on whiskering and hopefully treating with 5:1 Ferric Nitrate for first coat of Chambers Oil Stock Finish. I did a few test pieces with Laurel Mountain Stain, Aqua Fortis, FN and then finishing with the Chambers Oil. The FN gave me what I was looking for.

My question is, should I use several coats of Chambers Oil or go to TruOil or something of the like after I get the color I want. Wondering, since the Chambers is tinted, if it will continue to darken after several coats?

I'd stay with the chambers oil. True oil is too glossy and wears easily.

 

[azmntman]

45mann.....I'd say that fits pretty well! I could do that, check back in year 2035....

 

[Buckskinn]

Are you sure that is not just a 3D clear sticker meant to look like a patch box???? That is ridiculous, I'm just happy to not have screwed up the stock so much as to not be functional!!!

I applied the AF and heated treated, then hit it with first coat of Chambers Oil yesterday. I have to say, the color is exactly what I was hoping for and looks better than I expected. Hard to believe I can see the finish line on this project. Few more coats of finish, cut and install rear site, install front site, a little polishing, then barrel bluing and it's ready to make smoke.

 

[Jeff Kaufmann]

Always nice to be able to taste/see the fruits of your dedication and labor!

 

[45man]

I have done the old ways myself, nitric acid, heat and baking soda wash, then potassium permangenate for color. Deadly stuff. Laurel Mountain has the best stains ever and you can mix them. They do not raise the grain but go deep so when done it is like looking into glass.
I must be a tough SOB since what I have been exposed to would have killed Kalifornia.
Keep doing what you love and all of you are doing just great.

 

[Buckskinn]

Nitric acid and permanganate aren't any big deal, just a mild acid and oxidizer. The permanganate will turn your skin brown, but just rub a little hydrogen peroxide on and it will take care of it. The biggest danger with potassium permanganate is fire when in powder form if it comes in contact with certain substances. It and antifreeze make a nice emergency fire kit... Kalifornia should just fall of the map...

On a side note, that technically isn't under the Builder's Bench format. But since I did build the rifle and you guys will definitely have the experience... This rifle is a 54 cal., what is a good starting load, bullet diameter and patch thickness to begin with. I know I will need to play around with it to find the sweet spot, but would like a general starting place.

Thanks!

 

[dave_person]

Hi Buckskinn,
Ferric nitrate is definitely a good option. No real acid to worry about and the same effect as aqua fortis (because chemically it is the same). The barrel on the original rifle showed traces of heat bluing, either a simple temper blue or charcoal bluing. If you want your barrel to look authentic for the time period, don't fully brown or blue it. A good option is to apply cold, instant blue, then rub it back with a Scotch Bright pad until it is translucent.

dave

 

[Buckskinn]

That is good to know about the cold bluing. I assume same treatment for lock?