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Orange toner

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Lately I've been using Dangler's stains from Jim Klein and the first stain is the orange toner followed by the reddish brown. Also have used the orange toner followed by the dark brown and then the reddish brown. A little rubbing w/ #0000 steel wool and the stock looks like the one below...nice yellow/ orange undertones w/ a fair amount of darker curl.....Fred

P1010001-1.jpg
 
I don't think it has anything to do with bringing out the curl. But use it sometimes & I like it because of the undertones it brings out.

Keith Lisle
 
I agree...forgot to mention that the curl contrast comes from either the dark brown or reddish brown or both.....Fred
 
Thanks fellas. I was originally going to use aquafortis but my test wood came out black. I'm not sure if I screwed up, or if it's the wood that made it so. Now I'm in full chicken out, and want to do something else. Jim has the toner in stock so I'm going to try it. What a learning experience my new hobby turned out to be! But it's all good...
 
When you put it on you will think you ruined the stock, as it is one ugly color. But after applying several coats or the dark brown or Reddish brown over it & rubbing it out, the finished colors come out real nice.

One thing people sometimes get confused on, stripes in a stock are THERE..... you cannot make them. You can enhance them & bring them out more at times, but they have to be there First.

Keith Lisle
 
I kinda figured it needed more work. At least I can play with it for awhile, get a feel for mixing layers of stains. I'm staining a Jim Chambers Issac Haines kit, and paid extra for the nicer wood. Even dry the figure jumps out at you so I want to be sure I do it right.
 
If I wanted to be in control of the final outcome instead of relying on what the wood decided it wanted to do with the aquafortis I would use a lye water treatment to start the process and good alcohol based stains to color it.

I also would dilute the stains so they don't add too much color. I know I can always add additional coats using several different color stains.
This allows me to 'sneak up' on the final look.
 
I use the Dangler stains full strength and in fact apply 2 coats of orange toner and sometimes more than one coat of the reddish and dark browns w/ a complete dry between all coats. When I was using LMF stains, wiping w/ a paper towel slightly wetted w/ alcohol "adjusted" the darkness. The Dangler stains aren't as concentrated so I don't wipe w/ alcohol...just a good rubdown w/ #0000 steel wool to remove unabsorbed stain residue and to lighten the color in the high wear areas.

Perhaps will try the "lye treatment" on the curent LR, but don't think the curl should be the "highlight" of the rifle...we'll see....Fred
 
I just did a stock with Dangler's stain, but intentionally left out the brown. Only used the orange and the red brown parts. The stock has a wonderful reddish brown glow. I like that color better than when I've used all 3 of the stains together.

Lisle George
 
I nearly agree w/ you...the previously pictured LR has only the orange toner and reddish brown. But, some maple does indeed look better if the dark brown is used which does bring out the curl a bit more. I test to see which combo yields the best colors. Any pics of that gun?.....Fred
 
Ok Here is a try. This is my Tulle D with a few amendments. I took these at night with a flash. I think the color is close. Have to thank you all for this gun. You helped me finish it off. Shoots round ball well. Shot not so good. But that is me not the gun. I used the Lye wash and did 2 coats of Dangler's orange followed by a coat of the red brown, and then tru oil. Didn't dilute the stain, but may have rubbed after staining a very small amount with denatured alcohol wipes- but not much. After shooting it, the buttstock was thumping my cheek bone, so I rasped off the right side of the comb to be the same drop and pitch as my Lancaster. Then sanded, restained and refinished the rasped part with the same stains. Colors on the2 sides didn't quite match, but at least I no longer see stars whenever I touch it off.

Thanks all for the help on this.

Lisle George
Tulle2_zpsab727fc4.jpg
 
Nice work. The color in the pic of the forestock is possibly closer to the true color? After the last coat of stain is completely dry, a good rub down w/ 0000 steel wool removes all the unabsorbed surface stain. Thanks for the pics......Fred
 

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