Pair of pistol or double?
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Arrowstorm
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they should go in a pair of dragoon pistols!
Then tucked in yer belt prepared to fire as yer boarding a merchant ship in search of plunder!
ARGH! :thumbsup:
Then tucked in yer belt prepared to fire as yer boarding a merchant ship in search of plunder!
ARGH! :thumbsup:
Doc Arroyo
Greybeard
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I have been looking for a pair like that for quite a while...where did you find them? For some reason I want a double barrelled flintlock half stocked pistol with silver furniture.
Guest
Roy said:
My shop. And from there, into a sxs pistol. However, if you choose to skip step one, I understand. But step two should be absolute IMO
Cody
Because you have a right and left hand lock, a double is IMO the only way to go.
Erzulis boat
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Since little gems like that don't appear very often......go the double route.
Engineering a double from scratch is easier than it would seem.
Breechplugging the barrels could be done independently and self contained. A large "setscrew" if you will.
A back plate that mimics the breeched area, and subsequently tied in to the 2 plugs sharing a common tang, that either is unified with a rib (cylindrical or octagonal profile barrels) or is attached to the backplate.
The lock(s) fasteners would thread into a central allocation.
The central rib on non-tapered octagonal barrels could be machined after installation (top and bottom).
Square stock, turned "diamond" drops right in between the barrels perfectly. Merely tin it with real silver bearing solder (no less than 2%) and there you have it. This stock, if it overhangs, would become the tang of course.
Then go to town machining it flush or slightly recessed on top, and with a ball-endmill (ramrod diameter) machine the bottom. Presto! a perfect job.
Now you got me thinking.........woe is me. :shake: :grin:
Engineering a double from scratch is easier than it would seem.
Breechplugging the barrels could be done independently and self contained. A large "setscrew" if you will.
A back plate that mimics the breeched area, and subsequently tied in to the 2 plugs sharing a common tang, that either is unified with a rib (cylindrical or octagonal profile barrels) or is attached to the backplate.
The lock(s) fasteners would thread into a central allocation.
The central rib on non-tapered octagonal barrels could be machined after installation (top and bottom).
Square stock, turned "diamond" drops right in between the barrels perfectly. Merely tin it with real silver bearing solder (no less than 2%) and there you have it. This stock, if it overhangs, would become the tang of course.
Then go to town machining it flush or slightly recessed on top, and with a ball-endmill (ramrod diameter) machine the bottom. Presto! a perfect job.
Now you got me thinking.........woe is me. :shake: :grin:
Theres a lot of time in them, need to build something special. These by the way were made by stock removal (not castings or swaged) using saws files and a lathe for the tumbler and screws.
I'm still trying to figure a way to make the swage blocks to forge the parts.
Re-inventing the flintlock... :youcrazy:
I'm still trying to figure a way to make the swage blocks to forge the parts.
Re-inventing the flintlock... :youcrazy:
Arrowstorm
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then my suggestion is a double barreled shotgun. that would be even better for when you do yer pilagin'!
Erzulis boat
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Last night I delved deeper into the barrel joining thing.
2 straight octagonal profile barrels as a base. Machine down (within a safe margin) two opposing flats, since these are contacting one another, the barrel wall will share any stress with it's partner. The bores are now parallel. This minimizes extra bulk side to side. Unitize the assembly with the "ribs" top and bottom.
For discussion's sake, lets go with 2.5 degrees of taper (per side).
Subsequent machining operations using a sine vise, or better yet, a custom ramp with a stop (integral), the barrels would become tapered octagons in profile.
A 90 degree cutter, that removes the same amount of metal (consistent starting point) would tie it in.
The bores parallel, but everything tapered around them, if done properly, would be a first class job. It would be on par with the finest English double pistols.
Yet another project that I have to do.
Thanks for nothing, Roy. :haha:
2 straight octagonal profile barrels as a base. Machine down (within a safe margin) two opposing flats, since these are contacting one another, the barrel wall will share any stress with it's partner. The bores are now parallel. This minimizes extra bulk side to side. Unitize the assembly with the "ribs" top and bottom.
For discussion's sake, lets go with 2.5 degrees of taper (per side).
Subsequent machining operations using a sine vise, or better yet, a custom ramp with a stop (integral), the barrels would become tapered octagons in profile.
A 90 degree cutter, that removes the same amount of metal (consistent starting point) would tie it in.
The bores parallel, but everything tapered around them, if done properly, would be a first class job. It would be on par with the finest English double pistols.
Yet another project that I have to do.
Thanks for nothing, Roy. :haha:
Guest
Roy, IMO they are far too small for a long-gun. They would make up into a sweet little sxs pistol. Ideally, if you could score a wrecked set of 28ga twist shotgun barrels and salvage 7-8 inches out of the rear 1/3. Barring that highly unlikely scenario, get a pair of light, slightly tapered round barrels and join them. Making ribs would be a challenge but you could salvage them from an old shotgun. :hmm: , this sounds like alot of fun. I might have to make one of those myself
Cody
Cody
I have to take issue with the idea that the barrels will share stress on the common wall. During combustion the barrels will load in "hoop" stress (picture the stress on the hoop of a wooden barrel if the barrel is full and trying to burst). The barrels will be joined to each other with solder or braze metal, both much softer than steel. When one barrel is fired it will go into hoop stress and the soft solder will get streched in the up and down plane (for a side-by-side). I do not think the soft solder will effectively transmit the stress to the sister bartel.
I am not saying that your idea is no good, only that I would not count on the two barrels strengthening each other. Each barrel must be strong enough to stand on it's own.
I am not saying that your idea is no good, only that I would not count on the two barrels strengthening each other. Each barrel must be strong enough to stand on it's own.
IronCrickett
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I think they should "go in" my shop. Please forward them asap...Seriously, they look great and would make a nice set of belt pistols...
Later
I.C.
Later
I.C.
Erzulis boat
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Octagonal profile barrels commercially available can be thinned considerably.
A .45 caliber octagon barrel with a 13/16" (flat to flat) can be machined down up to 15%, with no ill effects whatsoever, and this pertains to a single unit.
That is why I said as above "within a safe margin".
A .45 caliber octagon barrel with a 13/16" (flat to flat) can be machined down up to 15%, with no ill effects whatsoever, and this pertains to a single unit.
That is why I said as above "within a safe margin".
Erzulis boat, your welcome :thumbsup: . I think I can get a rib from Brownell's.
Cody & Iron Cricket, nice try. :grin:
This should get your minds going... Before I can build a gun with these I need to make a screw barrel box lock from scratch. I have made two from TRS, but this one will be round not square.
And if any one has any ideas on swage blocks for "normal" locks I'd love to hear your thoughts.
Cody & Iron Cricket, nice try. :grin:
This should get your minds going... Before I can build a gun with these I need to make a screw barrel box lock from scratch. I have made two from TRS, but this one will be round not square.
And if any one has any ideas on swage blocks for "normal" locks I'd love to hear your thoughts.
Well, I have made one or two sinle sided, or "german" dies before.
I think what you'd need to do is make copies of the parts you need in a good grade of spring steel. Leave a handle of some sort attached. finish them off as polished as you can. this is called a "dropper" round these parts. Have a think about the draft on the parts. You want to be able to pull them out of the block of steel you are going to hammer it into easily.
Next step, select a nice block of steel, something like 1055 perhaps? Make sure you have a good margin of at least an inch around the outside of the impression you are going to make. Heat it to an orange heat and hammer the "dropper" into the block as quickly as possible. you need a helper with a sledge for this. You should have a nice cleanish looking impression in the block.
You'll have to polish it and grind a "spillway" into the block, but basically thats it. Lubricate the die with a dab of graphite grease before each use - if you have a small fly press, that might be the most effective means to squash your hot metal into the cavity.
I can't remember there name of it, but theres a blacksmiths text available for download at the UK countryside agency which explains the process in better detail than I can...
good luck!
I think what you'd need to do is make copies of the parts you need in a good grade of spring steel. Leave a handle of some sort attached. finish them off as polished as you can. this is called a "dropper" round these parts. Have a think about the draft on the parts. You want to be able to pull them out of the block of steel you are going to hammer it into easily.
Next step, select a nice block of steel, something like 1055 perhaps? Make sure you have a good margin of at least an inch around the outside of the impression you are going to make. Heat it to an orange heat and hammer the "dropper" into the block as quickly as possible. you need a helper with a sledge for this. You should have a nice cleanish looking impression in the block.
You'll have to polish it and grind a "spillway" into the block, but basically thats it. Lubricate the die with a dab of graphite grease before each use - if you have a small fly press, that might be the most effective means to squash your hot metal into the cavity.
I can't remember there name of it, but theres a blacksmiths text available for download at the UK countryside agency which explains the process in better detail than I can...
good luck!
