Pan priming

[pinemarten]

Hello... I am wondering if there are any advantages to priming with certain powders. I have Goex 4Fg and have been using that. I also have 2Fg. I wonder if ignition differences are significant, catching spark, and grain size effect in wet conditions.

Dan

 

[Billnpatti]

No, Dan, there is not a significant difference in their ignition times. There is a measurable difference but it is not perceptible to the shooter. You can use anything from Null B to 2f and the ignition times will all seem the same when you shoot.

One of our members, Larry Pletcher (Pletch) who uses high speed photography to measure such things, did see a very minute ignition difference in the various granulations but they were in the magnitude of milliseconds. Not enough difference for the shooter to feel.

Having said that, the difference in granulation in wet conditions may make a difference. The finer granulations will have a greater surface area and will quite probably be more sensitive to dampness. The fine stuff will work but you may have to empty your pan and re-charge occasionally to be sure that you get instant ignition. If you are using the fine granulations such as 4f, just occasionally open your frizzen and check your powder. If it moves freely in the pan, it is fine but if it starts looking like it is getting damp and seems not to move freely, it is time to dump it and re-charge our pan. Unless it is raining, you should not have to recharge all that often.

 

[pinemarten]

Thank you for your help! Correction: I actually have Goex FFFg (not 2F). Sounds like I could that in either charge or pan in my .50 cal


Dan

 

[Gene L]

I think I can tell the difference; to me, 4F ignites faster. I think this has been proven by electronic timing of ignition times, although lots of knowledgeable shooters say there's no difference.

I can't see a single disadvantage of priming with 4F powder except maybe using a separate priming flask. It takes just as much 3F to prime as it does 4F, so cost doesn't figure into it. I doubt you'll use a pound of 4F powder any time soon. You should get about 2000 primes out of a can.

 

[Walks with fire]

I don't think the granulation matters much other than course powder would probably be better in damp weather. I use Null-B for the simple reason I bought some to try and it will last me the rest of my flint smashing days I'm sure. I use a coned vent and make sure the barrel charge is right out to the end of the vent. If the pan lights it's going off quick enough that aim isn't disturbed.

 

[hanshi]

I prime with 4F and prefer it; and it is quite fast. It's also easier to push through the vent hole in case of a dryball - been there more than once. Priming with 3F works okay as well and there's no problem with that or 2F. But, still, 4F is faster and I have plenty.

 

[Billnpatti]

A LOT of people use 3f as the main charge in their .50s and they also use it to charge their pan. The thinking is that it is easier to carry only one horn for both the main charge and the pan. But, if you already have a can of 4f and a small horn or pan charger to cary it, why not use it. :thumbsup:

 

[Bean]

The one thing that I've noticed is that less prime is faster. I'd like input to that but it really does seem that when I use just a tad of primer it is faster. When I use a good bit it's very slow.

 

[SgtErv]

Ive noticed the exact same thing with mine. There is a "just enough" amount of powder in the pan where flash is minimal and ignition is fast. I use as little as possible. Harder to do with 2F, but just a pinch of 3F and it's extremely fast.

 

[hanshi]

:thumbsup:

 

[tenngun]

I prime with what's in my horn 2 or 3. Muskets were primed with cartridge powder.

 

[Greg Blackburn]

I hope to get some 4F experience soon. My .50 TC Renegade came in and I have both FF and FFFF so I plan to use FFFF for priming. Can you believe, I have never shot a flintlock? I've had two since 2012 and never shot either one.

 

[tenngun]

It is addicting, just another layer of stuff to fiddle with.

 

[Greg Blackburn]

I'll bet it is. Well, I am ready. My other two flintlocks had one issue or another, enough to keep me from shooting them right off, but this Renegade I just unboxed an hour ago is in .50, which I have everything necessary to shoot sitting on my shelf.

 

[excess650]

ffffg for the pan, and ffg or fffg in the barrel. I recall the flash hole in the TCs being near .070", so plenty large. At that size they are on the verge of dribbling fffg.

My preference is towards black English or French amber flints. You may have one of those cut agates if its a TC, and they can work OK. The flint should be close to the frizzen at 1/2 cock, and strike 2/3-3/4 up the frizzen. If its too short it won't scrape much frizzen, too long and it might strike too squarely and and be hard on flints and/or not allow the frizzen to open completely. Real flints can be touched up if they get dull.

The amount of pan powder will vary. My friend with several TCs only uses about 1/2 pan. His custom NEEDS a full pan to be fully reliable. Mine don't seem to care, but (3) are custom and one a Dixie.

Wipe the frizzen face, pan, and flint between shots to remove excess fouling. This is particularly important if the humidity is high. The fouling turns into a slurry that contaminates the priming powder.

Some rifles need to have the charge picked between shots, meaning pushing a pick through the flash hole into the powder for a clear channel. Some like to be loaded with a pick IN the flash hole, and some don't care.

If you are shooting a charge that works with your patch lube of choice, you shouldn't need to wipe the bore between shots. I choose to use a greasy, waterless lube for hunting so as to not contaminate the powder charge or freeze to the barrel. Mink oil from Track of The Wolf is my choice there. Its also fine at the target range, but there are lots of other options if the rifle is going to be loaded and shot relatively quickly.

Shooting a flintlock accurately requires that you focus on the sights and ignore the pan flash. Wear glasses and use earplugs at the range so as to NOT develop a flinch.

Yeah, its not as easy as a percussion gun, but more satisfying once you master it. :thumbsup:

 

[Gene L]

I prime with what's in my horn 2 or 3. Muskets were primed with cartridge powder.

I've got an old can marked "Musket Powder." It's pretty fine, about 3F I'd judge. Definitely finer than 2F.

 

[Jaegermeister]

I bought a can of Goex ffffg years ago and it will last me a lifetime. That's the main reason I use it.

 

[spudnut]

Ive used 2F for 30 years I had a can of 4 that I always thlught it was more trouble than it was worth so I gave it away

 

[Crewdawg445]

2F, 3F your human senses won't know the difference.

Whatever is in the horn, it's goes to the pan as well.

 

[Stumpkiller]

When I had my Bess I used FFg for the main charge and prime.

My .54 I use FFFg for both the main & prime.

In my 16 bore fowler I use FFFFg prime and a FFg main.

I don't notice a speed difference, though after a day out I do get an occasional hang-fire. I think there are too many variables in lock, pan size & shape, prime amount, etc. to state a better or worse choice. Use what works best by trial and error.