Well I got some pictures I can show to help.
I bought a patch template but soon found out I needed to modify it a bit for the length of bullets I use. I now make my own templates using heavy cardboard. .
In these pictures I used my fingers to roll them. Some guys use a board and others use cigarette rollers to do it. I wrap mine on dry, and size them DRY after they are wrapped. In my 50’s I size them back to .501 and the fit well, are easy to load even when the barrel is dirty, and they stay on the powder charge.
The base of this bullet was a hollow base so I can tuck the tail into the base. A hollow base is not needed but is best. I also like to shoot the PP bullets with an over powder wad to help protect the back of the bullet even more.
There are already myths about shooting PP bullets on this thread.
Here are the Myths.
Myth #1- It is practically useless in a ML unless you clean every shot.
This is NOT TRUE! It depends on the hardness of the lead, the thickness of the paper, and the type of paper used. I use soft lead between 5 and 8 BHN, 25% cotton onion paper. I can shoot up to 5 shots in a SUB 1” group before I need to clean.
Myth #2- PP in MLs was used in bench guns with false muzzles.
In the past maybe, but NO YOU DON’T NEED TO HAVE A FALSE MUZZLE! Paper patching is not hard and if done correctly yields fantastic results. All three of my guns will shoot sub 2” groups at 100 yards.
silent sniper, you asked, also how effective is paper patching ?
Paper patching is very effective. It is easy to do and no more work than a PRB. In fact if done correctly with the right barrel will increase the potential of the rifles accuracy level beyond what most guys even dream of. When I am hunting with PP bullets I treat them like any other conical. I put them into speed loaders, And I have several others in tubes I carry with me for extras. They are no harder to use than a regular conical or PRB.
Here is the last picture I am adding. This one spells it out. Ron