Patch Diameter for .45 And .50 Calibers?

[Josh Smith]

Hey Guys,

I made a patch cutter from a number 11 cap tin.

The patches it cuts measure 1.5 inches in diameter.

I am wondering if this is considered too big for 45 caliber and 50 caliber.

Because of a broken hand, I've not gotten a chance to go out and shoot the patches yet. It just appeals to my OCD to have perfectly round patches ready to go that I can make in quantity anytime.

Thank you,

Josh

 

[123.DieselBenz]

I think you'll find they are a tad big . . . I got some .40-.49 cal patches from TOTW that measure 1 1/8" in diameter . . .

 

[Jim/OH]

Yes, inch and one-eighth is about right. Made my cutter from a reworked hole saw. Works great. I think a #11 tin would be too big. :thumbsup:

Hope this helps, see ya, Jim/OH :hatsoff:

 

[JMinnerath]

I cut my .50 caliber patches 1 1/8".
That's what you'll find factory patches cut at.
I just cut mine square rather than mass around with cutting round ones.

 

[Herb]

Josh, the trouble with bigger patches is that they may bind on the seating jag. I prelube mine for a shooting session and store them in a cap box. The box size is OK for .50 and .54, that is, 1 3/8" to 1 1/2". I hardly ever shoot .45 anymore, but I think I also use about 1 1/8". How do you make a patch cutter from a cap tin?

 

[longcruise]

I find that for .45 cal a patch about 1 1/4 is good and for .50 about 1 1/2. These are the high end. The 1 1/2 works well in a .54 too.

Mine are cut square. Much simpler than cutting out round patches and work as well or better`.

 

[ebiggs1]

Get some bulk pillow ticking material and just cut them at the muzzle. They don't gotta be round!

 

[C Barker]

Get some bulk pillow ticking material and just cut them at the muzzle. They don't gotta be round!

ebiggs, that's what I do and it solves alot of problems. Josh, check out Zonie's post a while back on this very topic. He has a "magic" formula for determining patches for all calibers.

While I'm at it, from a retired preacher: MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!! GOD BLESS US EVERYONE! :grin: :grin: :grin:

 

[longcruise]

even easier if you cut them square in advance. Saves some loading steps and eliminates having to use your knife. No big deal at the bench, but when wandering the woods shooting from a bag it's a whole lot easier.

This is not a "majic formula" but it does represent about 85% of the circumference of the balls.

Ball size Circumference Patch width

.240 0.75 0.63

.270 0.85 0.72

.310 0.97 0.82

.350 1.10 0.93

.390 1.23 1.04

.440 1.38 1.17

.445 1.40 1.19

.495 1.56 1.32

.535 1.68 1.42

.570 1.79 1.52

.610 1.92 1.63

.655 2.06 1.75

.730 2.29 1.94

 

[Zonie]

My 'magic formula' is
(Pi X D)/2 + D where Pi is 3.1 and D is the diameter of the ball.

Another formula that gives almost the same answer is
2.6 X D where D is the diameter of the ball.

The patch size doesn't have to be absolutely "correct". Close will do just fine.

The important thing is that the patch must be making full contact between the outside of the ball and the bore. Anything more just makes it a lot easier to locate the patch while your thumbing the ball into place.

As was mentioned, if a patch is too large it can grab ahold of the ramrod tip and this is not good because the ramrod can drag the patched ball up off of the powder load as your removing it.

If a oversized patch must be used, just make sure the loose material is folded back over the top of the ball before you ram the ball.
The folded material won't hurt the accuracy but it's kind of a PIA to have to deal with it over and over.

 

[Josh Smith]

Thanks gents,

I thought about making them about an inch, but I don't think I have anything around here that would allow me to do that.

I will look tonight.

I got to thinking when I made this that perhaps a slightly larger patch that normal would catch wind better and separate from the ball sooner. This seems to work with shotguns sabots - the sooner they separate, the more accurate be shotgun slug.

Regardless, I have a bout 200 of these to shoot up. I guess I'll see how it works.

I might just give in and spend the money on a hole saw as another forum member did. I just like making my own stuff. It's a self sufficiency thing.

Thanks,

Josh

 

[Josh Smith]

Josh, the trouble with bigger patches is that they may bind on the seating jag. I prelube mine for a shooting session and store them in a cap box. The box size is OK for .50 and .54, that is, 1 3/8" to 1 1/2". I hardly ever shoot .45 anymore, but I think I also use about 1 1/8". How do you make a patch cutter from a cap tin?

Here you are. Everything's pretty self explanatory; I through this together in about 5 minutes - with a broken hand ;-)

I wonder if I have a smaller tin laying around. A metal 35mm film canister would work perfectly, but unfortunately, all I have are the plastic ones.

Josh

 

[longcruise]

I got to thinking when I made this that perhaps a slightly larger patch that normal would catch wind better and separate from the ball sooner. This seems to work with shotguns sabots - the sooner they separate, the more accurate be shotgun slug.

Can't speak for smoothies, but with a rifle the centrifugal force of the patch spinning flares it immediatley upon leaving the muzzle. It quickly separates when it flares and the air catches it.

I'll play devils desciple for you and suggest you just cut em square. Much simpler and easily done under any field conditions that you might find yourself in. Tear to width by starting with a slip of your knife and then cut them off either by onsies or by folding the strip over and over itself and then cutting the folds on both sides. They don't come out exactly the same size but it does not seem to matter.

 

[Josh Smith]

I got to thinking when I made this that perhaps a slightly larger patch that normal would catch wind better and separate from the ball sooner. This seems to work with shotguns sabots - the sooner they separate, the more accurate be shotgun slug.

Can't speak for smoothies, but with a rifle the centrifugal force of the patch spinning flares it immediatley upon leaving the muzzle. It quickly separates when it flares and the air catches it.

I'll play devils desciple for you and suggest you just cut em square. Much simpler and easily done under any field conditions that you might find yourself in. Tear to width by starting with a slip of your knife and then cut them off either by onsies or by folding the strip over and over itself and then cutting the folds on both sides. They don't come out exactly the same size but it does not seem to matter.

Thank you. I already have a bunch of square ones cut. I just like round patches.

If I go square, I just cut at the muzzle.

This all just depends on what I'm doing that day. When I started not that long ago, I carried a strip of linen tied to my powder horn strap.

Thanks again,

Josh

 

[1sgt]

I like round patches too. You have the right idea with that sharpened cap can. Just a little big for .45 or .50 cal. This is how I cut mine. 1 1/4 for .54 cal. 1 1/8 for .45 and .50 cal. 7/8 for .36 cal and 3/4 for .32 cal.

 

[Billnpatti]

As a general rule, I like to use patches that measure approximately 3/4 the circumfrence of the ball. That provides plenty of patch material to engage the rifling but not so much that it bunches up in front of the ball. One of the problems with it bunching up in front of the ball is that it will grab your short starter and make it hard to remove from the muzzle after seating your ball.

 

[paulvallandigham]

I would rather chuck a loading jag into a drill( press) and file down the diameter of the jag, so it doesn't CATCH On excess patch material, than to try to use a patch that is almost Too small to allow for human error in centering the patch on the muzzle. My .50 cal. rifle can use 1.25" diameter patches, but I prefer using 1.5" diameter patches, because that extra quarter inch gives me some " Fudge Factor" allowance.

Just one guy's opinion, and probably worth every bit you paid for it. :shocked2: :rotf: :thumbsup:

 

[longcruise]

I would rather chuck a loading jag into a drill( press) and file down the diameter of the jag, so it doesn't CATCH On excess patch material, than to try to use a patch that is almost Too small to allow for human error in centering the patch on the muzzle.

I agree! There is no need for a short starter large enough in diameter to snag the patch. I use a .45 cal size starter for .50 and .54 and a .36 size starter for .45. The way I use them they don't have small nub, just lay the patch and ball on the muzzle and whack it with the long arm.