Patch lube

[Tb54]

I’m having trouble wrapping my mind around lubeing a patch. It just seems counter productive to introduce something into the powder charge that could potentially neutralize the powder, like a spit patch, or olive oil lubed patch. Even if the patch is barely damp, still it would leach into the powder I would think. Pre lubed patches I just figured were lubed with something that wouldn’t neutralize the powder.

 

[Black Hand]

I’m having trouble wrapping my mind around lubeing a patch. It just seems counter productive to introduce something into the powder charge that could potentially neutralize the powder, like a spit patch, or olive oil lubed patch. Even if the patch is barely damp, still it would leach into the powder I would think. Pre lubed patches I just figured were lubed with something that wouldn’t neutralize the powder.

At worst, the effect is minimal (unless sopping wet with liquid lube), at best, there is no effect at all - In other words, you're thinking about this too much. Lube your patches with an animal/vegetable oil or grease and go hunting....

 

[Docgp]

In other words, you're thinking about this too much

Lol, this was my thought also.

Doc

 

[buford87]

Years ago, after deer hunting all day, I met up with a friend who was hunting the same area. When we emptied our rifles his wouldn't fire. I helped him pull the load and his powder was pretty wet. Since that day I have put a felt wad or at the very least a couple of wadded up dry patches between my powder and any lube. I like the felt wad idea best it does a great job of protecting the powder............watch yer top knot........

 

[Black Hand]

Years ago, after deer hunting all day, I met up with a friend who was hunting the same area. When we emptied our rifles his wouldn't fire. I helped him pull the load and his powder was pretty wet.

Was this a flintlock or caplock? A wet load could directly be due to a poorly-lubed patch allowing moisture into the charge. There could be several other reasons why the charge was wet, all due to operator error.

I prefer to find the cause of the problem and address it specifically. I had water migrate up the barrel, behind the lock and into the pan (twice). After sealing the barrel channel and behind the lock with wax, it never happened again. I've shot/carried a flintlock in all kinds of weather (including horizontal rain and snow) and other than the 2 times mentioned above, my powder has stayed dry. The reality is that your wad probably had no effect and was more a form of magical thinking that made you feel better. I don't use a wad, my patch is sloppy with Bear grease and I rarely use a cows-knee, and yet, my guns fire regularly....

 

[Le Loup]

I’m having trouble wrapping my mind around lubeing a patch. It just seems counter productive to introduce something into the powder charge that could potentially neutralize the powder, like a spit patch, or olive oil lubed patch. Even if the patch is barely damp, still it would leach into the powder I would think. Pre lubed patches I just figured were lubed with something that wouldn’t neutralize the powder.

In the 18th century patching was not used in smoothbores Tb, they only used wads or wadding. Earlier still they did not use patching in rifles either. But in the 18th century they did use patching in rifled bores, & the lubricants they had in those days were restricted to: sweet oils, neetsfoot oil, & tallow or animal fat un-rendered. Sweet oil & neetsfoot oils was used to lubricate the lock & the bore of the gun/rifle. It may have been used on patches, but I do not recall reading about this anywhere. I have only ever used tallow to lubricate rifle patches & to seal around the lock of my pan on my flintlocks in wet weather. I have never noticed any reduction in power, or any misfires.
Regards, Keith.

 

[Zonie]

IMO, unless the patch is almost dripping wet, it won't have a measurable effect on the power the powder produces.

Unlike smokeless powder where a few tenths of a grain can make a large difference in pressure, black powder is fairly weak so the loss of a few tenths of a grain of powder because it became oil-fouled won't matter.

 

[tenngun]

All though oversized ball was

I’m having trouble wrapping my mind around lubeing a patch. It just seems counter productive to introduce something into the powder charge that could potentially neutralize the powder, like a spit patch, or olive oil lubed patch. Even if the patch is barely damp, still it would leach into the powder I would think. Pre lubed patches I just figured were lubed with something that wouldn’t neutralize the powder.

ive had rifles loaded for over six months with animal lard greased patch in a flintlock and it lit off with no loss of power or accuracy. Rifles found from early times have been loaded and shot well. I never have found a damp charge from a greased patch.

 

[hanshi]

A sloppy wet patch could contaminate the powder, I suppose. But any reasonable amount is dried out by the hot powder blast in the bore. I like a grease lube for hunting and have left guns loaded for months with no ill effects.

 

[Stumpkiller]

For many years my primary hunting firearm was a m/l (NY did not allow centerfire rifles in this area) and I would put a small wad of waxed paper between the powder and the patch. I hunted in rain and snow, but if it stayed dry I would leave the load in place for a week (between weekend hunting) and I was also a bit concerned about contaminating the powder. That seemed to work fine.

I left a load in place 11 months as an experiment and it went off fine. Struck a few inches high.

 

[Okie Hog]

Lots of stuff makes good patch lube. Don't over do it.

i pre-lube patches with Frontiers patch lube or Outers Leath-R-Seal by wiping one side of the patch over the solid lube. Patches are stored in a musket cap can.

 

[Dr5x]

I HAVE NEVER HEARD THE FEAR OF THE PATCH LUBE NEUTRALIZING THE POWDER CHARGE..
I BELIVE THAT COULD HAPPEN IF THERE WASN EXCESS LUBRICANT, DRIPPING INTO THE CHARGE.
DUTCH SCHOULTZ "DRY" PATCH LUBE SYSTEM USES MINIMUM LUBRICANT IN THE BELIEF THAT TOO SLICK A LUBE IS A MISTAKE, YOU CAN BARELY FEEL THE EXISTANCE OF A LUBRICANT AND WHILE IT LUBRICATES IT STILL CREATES THE SMALL AMOUNT OF RESISTANCE REQUIRED FOR PERFECT SHOTS.

BOB SCHOULTZ

I’m having trouble wrapping my mind around lubeing a patch. It just seems counter productive to introduce something into the powder charge that could potentially neutralize the powder, like a spit patch, or olive oil lubed patch. Even if the patch is barely damp, still it would leach into the powder I would think. Pre lubed patches I just figured were lubed with something that wouldn’t neutralize the powder.

 

[Papa Ralph]

I load my Pedersoli Jager with 100 gr of Goex FFG topped with 50 gr of semolina. I then load a 0.535 in round ball patched with a 0.010 in patch. The patch is HEAVILY lubed with Udderly Smooth Body Cream which is water based.
I have no problems as this lube keeps the fouling soft and easy to clean from the bore. Also, the semolina keeps the lube from the powder and helps to clean the bore.

 

[Papa Ralph]

Oh, I forgot to mention that I load the powder and semolina via a drop tube.

 

[Tb54]

You guys that lube with deer tallow, do you render it first?

 

[Black Hand]

You guys that lube with deer tallow, do you render it first?

How else would you use it? Otherwise you're rubbing raw fat on your patch - sounds messy and smelly to me...

Personally, I find deer tallow too hard & waxy to use as a patch lube.

 

[Dr5x]

He has already answered this question. Get Dutch Schoultz z"DRY" patch System and your worries should be over.

I’m having trouble wrapping my mind around lubeing a patch. It just seems counter productive to introduce something into the powder charge that could potentially neutralize the powder, like a spit patch, or olive oil lubed patch. Even if the patch is barely damp, still it would leach into the powder I would think. Pre lubed patches I just figured were lubed with something that wouldn’t neutralize the powder.