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Patch Lube.

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yotebuster

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I'm sure new at all this But love shooting them smoke poles! Did a small search but thought I would ask the question, What lube do you use for Patched round balls for General shooting and hunting? I Know I do not like the bore butter real well. Looking for something to help when shooting at the shoots to allow a few more shots in between the cleaning. Thanks for the Help.
 
You can scan through the pages of the "Shooting Accessory's" forum, theres lots of threads on lubes there.

You might want to try Olive oil, either alone or mixed with beeswax or deer tallow at different ratios for a stiffer lube if you'd prefer.
 
Welcome to the forum. :)
Glad to have you here and glad to be able to answer your question about patch lubes.

One of our moderators, Stumpkiller, developed two home made formulas that work very well.
So well that there is a dedicated location for the formulas. Follow this link
STUMPIES MOOSE JUICE

As you've found, there are a lot of different lubes available but they are getting pretty expensive and if you can make up your own you'll be money ahead in the long run.
 
basic instinct said:
What lube do you use for Patched round balls for General shooting and hunting?

Natural Lube 1000 for year round hunting in NC...winters get below freezing but are not severe.

Hoppes No9 PLUS BP for shooting long range sessions without wiping between shots.
 
at the range,doin woodswalks, and plinkin.I use jus a plain ole spit patch :wink: ...for hunting I use bear grease/deer tallow mix..and they both work very well an do what I want/need.. :thumbsup:
 
I always dry patch between shots with a loose-fitting patch ( piece of old flannel shirt), never shot in a formal shoot so don't know if this is allowed. I use GoJo white hand cleaner for patch lube.
 
Man, Oh Man!! If this one doesn't stir up a hornets of strong opinions, I'll be surprised. There are more favorite lube recipes than you can ever imagine and there are always shooters who will tell you that their particular recipe is the absolute best. In my case, I have tried a LOT of home recipes but I keep copming back to Bore Butter. It works well for me and doesn't smell all that bad on my hands. If you apply a dab to each individual patch, it can get pretty messy and be a bother in the field. What I do with it is to take a strip of patch material and lightly but adequately coat it with the Bore Butter. I do this at home before going out to shoot. Then I fold it so the bore Butter side is inside. I fold it over and over a few times so that it is now a short strip. Now, I put it between several folds of news paper and apply a hot iron to it to melt in the Bore Butter into the strip of patch material. This gives you an even moderately light coat of Bore Butter on your patching material. When I go to the field to shoot, I cut off a piece of the Bore Butter treated patching material and hang it over the end of the ram rod. Pull it up close to the first thimble and it will hang there quite well and be ready when you load your gun. This requires that you carry a patch knife to cut your patches at the muzzle but this gives you better accuracy than precut patches anyway.

There is a lot to be said for spit patches, too. Many people will tell you that spit will give you more accuracy than other patch lubes. I have seen graphs that woud indicate that in many rifles that may well be true. Many of the guys with whom I shoot use spit as their lube of preference. The way many of them do it is to carry the patch for the next load in their mouth where it soaks up a bit of spit. When they get ready to re-load they remove the patch from thier mouth and use it to load the next round. At that time, they will stick another patch in their mouth for the following shot. I see no problem with this when shooting targets where a load will not sit in the barrel very long before it is fired but if you are hunting and a load may sit in the barrel for well over an hour or even several hours, I am afraid that the spit may dampen the top of the powder column and cause it not to burn at the same rate as dry powder. This could change your MV and result in a change in point of impact for your bullet.

Why do I prefer Bore Butter for my guns over other products? Well, first it works for me and secondly, it has a "seasoning" effect on the bores of my rifles. It seems to be sort of like seasoning iron skillets. I can't tell you the metallurgy of it but when I use Bore Butter exclusively, I seem to have less fouling. It is a non-petrolium based product and they tell you to never use petrolium based products in the bore of a rifle that has been seasoned with Bore Butter or you will remove the seasoning. I just wash my bore with hot soapy water, rinse with boiling water, wipe dry and let the barrel sit for several minutes to finish drying. When it is cool enough to handle (it will be too hot to handle after you pour the boiling water through the bore), I run a patch lubed with Bore Butter through the bore and it is ready for the gun safe.

That's my routine for patched round balls. It may work for you and it may not. There are gobs of commercial patch lube products out there and no end of home recipes. Try as many as you can afford or are willing to cook up in your kitchen. Each rifle will prefer one lube over another and you just have to find that one lube that it likes. I recommend Dutch Schultz method for finding the most accurate load for your gun. He sells his method for a few dollars and he can be found by Googling "Dutch Schultz".

If you are shooting conical bullets or sabots, that is a whole different world. Spit as a lube is out of the question. You will have to use a lube that is thick enough to stay in the grooves of the bullet. Here again, the recipes are legion and, again, the opinions are strong. I have tried many commercial and home recipe lubes but still come back to Bore Butter. I'm not saying that it is the only way to go or even that it is the best waay to go but it works for me. I have a friend who has his secret recipe for bullet lube. It consists of bees wax, lard, and I don't know what all. He sits his bullets on their bases in a shallow pan,melts his secret formula and pours it into the pan of bullets. When the lube has cooled and solidified, he uses a piece of tubing to slide down over his bullets and cut them free from the pan. The lube is pretty thick and stays on his bullets pretty well. Before putting his lubed bullets in his possibles pouch, he wraps each one individually in a strip of paper to keep the grease in the bullet grooves and not in his pouch. It seems like a lot of work but it works for him. I once (emphysis on ONCE) tried a home brewed recipe that contained some Moly Coat grease. Lord have mercy, what a nasty mess that was. Never again. But you have to try as many as you can to find what works for you.
 
You are making a big mistake thinking you can get accuracy for a shooting match if you don't clean between shots. CLEAN between SHOTS!

You can use plain water, or spit to lube a patch if the load is going to be fired fairly quickly after you load the PRB down onto the powder.

DON'T use this in the field, when a shot may be many hours away. Water, or spit will evaporate, and leave you a rust ring where the patch is squeezed against the wall. This ring will be a lot of trouble to remove, will result in pitting, and will continue to be a problem for your barrel as long as the barrel is shot.

Buy a copy of Dutch Schoultz's Black Powder Rifle Accuracy System
http://www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/

It will teach you about accuracy, and lubes, and how to read your patches, both those shot, and your cleaning patches, to get better accuracy. Its the cheapest $15.00 investment you can make in your education.
 
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I never had much luck with Bore Butter or any of the grease based lubes either. I live in a dry climate so that's probably why. I have always liked Hoppe's #9 lube/solvent as a patch lube. I could basically shoot all day without swabbing. The lube makes the gun sort of self cleaning.

In the last few years, I've switched to Ballistol. I don't get quite as many shots before needing to swab as I do with Hoppe's, but my guns shoot a lot more accurately with it.

I mix it with 5-7 parts water, depending on the gun. They each have their own preference as to the ratio that gives the best accuracy. I wet the patches thoroughly with the mix and lay them out to dry. When the water evaporates out, it leaves behind just the right amount of ballistol, evenly distributed through the patch. They're pretty dry to the touch also, so you don't turn into a greasy mess when you're shooting for hours. A little Ballistol goes a long way, so it would be pretty hard to lightly and evenly lube the patches without the water to dilute it.
 
Being that I have used T/C 1000+ products from day one, and have preached it here for as long as Ive been here.

I have to concur with using Stumpy's Moose Juice
for your PATCHES.

It seems not to dry out as fast as the T/C number 13 Ive used for years.
 
i used bore butter and others when i had pre- cut patchs.now i cut my pillow tick at muzzle,so i dont want anything messy . :wink:

i use liquid and let it dry on screen in yard,then into a film canister,i cut a slit in side and pull out enough to put over bore ,push in ball and cut it.the rest stays in film canister until i need to pull more out for next shot. :wink:

also i think that messy stuff in bore is not for me, i like dry bore.you have to use HOT water to get bore butter out ,thats not for me,to much chance for FLASH RUST thing ,i use warm water to clean as my bores are not messy with greasy stuff,only DRY LUBE.
 
Hey, Plink, I have a rifle that I want to try that diluted Balistol idea on. You said to use 5 to 7 parts water but did not say how many parts Balistol to use. Give me that recipe again and I will give it a try. The dry patch thing is exactly what Dutch Shults recommends. :thumbsup:
 
Hey, Plink, I have a rifle that I want to try that diluted Balistol idea on. You said to use 5 to 7 parts water but did not say how many parts Balistol to use.

I think he means he uses 1 part Ballistol diluted in 5 to 7 parts of water. He probably experimented with each dilution (1 in 5, 1 in 6, and 1 in 7) to see which one gave him the best accuracy. :hatsoff:
 
Yeah, Acorn, thats kinda what I think too. I just want to hear it from him before I start using up my Balistol. Have you tried this recipe yourself?
 
Can't begin to count the number of lubes I've tried! :shocked2:

And, they all work great! They have to be used in the manner for which they were designed.

I used bore butter with great success for many years. But, at the price of it I switched to 1/10 bees wax crisco for a grease lube to hunt or any time the gun will remain loaded for any length of time.

Hoppes Lube works pretty good too, but once agian, there's the cost of it!

My range and match lube is 1/10 liquid kitchen soap/water. Plain old water would work just as well but the soap gives a bit of slippum. This can be shot all day without wiping, or you can wipe between shots if one pleases.
 
If you read Dutch's materials, its obvious what he meant, gentlemen.

The ratio is ONE PART Ballistol( Or other oil)to 5,6 or 7 parts of water. The whole point of the ratio is to dilute the oil with water( the oils are water soluable) so that you get an even spread of the oil- diluted by the water-- throughout the patch material. When the water evaporates off, you get a fabric that has OIL inside the threads, and not sitting on top of them. This is the " Dry Lube " Dutch is talking about. A piece of fabric soaked by only Ballistol would be too wet to use to patch your ball, and the extra oil would contaminate your powder charge rather quickly.

Dry the fabric laying it flat, and not hanging from some structure. hanging will allow the oil to run down the bottom of the fabric, robbing the upper parts of the oil.The top won't have enough oil, and the bottoms will have too much.
 
marmotslayer said:
"...they all work great! They have to be used in the manner for which they were designed..."

A very profound and correct statement...like most things in life, there is rarely a one-size-fits-all option for anything as there are pros & cons / tradeoffs to them all and in the case of lubes its accuracy, ease of use, different weather conditions, range use, hunting use, wiping between shots or not, cleanup, cost, etc, etc.
 
Well, then. I agree this is a touchy subject and can engender a spirited debate. I guess I'll take a stick and start poking at that hornet nest and see what happens :rotf: .

First off, most make too much of the subject. The fact that there are so many opinions goes to show that it probably doesn't make that much difference what you use, in general. Personally, I don't believe in this "seasoning" myth. If it even happens as claimed, I certainly don't won't my bore looking like a frying pan. And if it does as claimed, it must certainly reduce bore diameter. I mean, think of all that crud sticking to your bore :shake: . I want a clean, bare bore.

1. Spit is the cheapest and most available patch lube you can find. It also works as good as most anything else. Problems: it dries out after a while so can't be left in the bore too long, can contaminate powder, YOU may dry out after a while plus YOU (or I) don't really want to handle lead and then put your hand anywhere near your mouth.

2. I've come to really like water based lubes, especially DGWs "Black Solve". It's cheap and lasts a long time because it makes a quart of lube. I use BS almost exclusively and NEVER have to wipe the bore at all during a day of shooting much less after each shot. Accuracy remains unaffected. Why? Well it's because as you seat the next prb the bore is wiped clean by the wet patch. You never have more than ONE shots worth of fouling in the bore! The stuff dissolves powder fouling! Plain water even works pretty well. The 20th shot seats as easily as the first. Hoppes #9 Plus is great stuff, too. Problems: patches need to be WET, not just damp (this applies to most lubes, anyhow), can't be left in the bore overnight or for several hours, can wet the powder charge.

3. Crisco is pure, cheap and works as good or better than the expensive, but better smelling, butters & such. It is plant based and contains no salt. I use Crisco for greased patches. Various mixtures of Crisco, bees wax, vaseline can do very well and I've used them in the past. I just find plain Crisco less trouble to make/use. My first load is always a grease patch & never water based. All reloads are water based lubed.

4. To prevent powder contamination from ANY patch lube, seat an over powder wad of toilet paper, wasp nest, c&b revolver/Wonder wads or even a dry patch. Simple. That's enough from me for now! :yakyak:
 
Have you tried this recipe yourself?

No, I haven't tried it as yet since I've had pretty good luck with Three Rivers liquid lube for about 20 years. I have the Ballistol though, and one o' these days.... :grin:
 
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