Patchbox Dovetails?

[Erzulis boat]

The dovetails for a sliding wooden patchbox....

Are they only going on the sides, or do the also curve around the "nose".
A "U" shape of dovetails, or merely parallel/angled, then terminate at the receptacle end?
Hope this is clear enough.

 

Only on the sides.

 

[LRB]

The ones I see and do are all the way around, not in a U, but a square. You need a dove tail fit at the front to lock it down. In my opinion. By careful fitting at the front you can eliminate much of any play you may have as long as your metal to metal is well done on the lid plate.

 

[Erzulis boat]

Thanks again, Wick-

I figured that dovetails all around was superior.
I was hoping someone would say this was a legitimate technique!

Perpindicular dovetail at the front it is.

:hatsoff:

 

[rich pierce]

The ones I see and do are all the way around, not in a U, but a square. You need a dove tail fit at the front to lock it down. In my opinion. By careful fitting at the front you can eliminate much of any play you may have as long as your metal to metal is well done on the lid plate.

That is a brand new idea to me but excellent. Thanks, will try it.

 

[crgabel]

I only do the sides, check out this site for great instructions
[url] http://www.midiowa.com/hootalrifleshop/wooden_patchbox_lid.htm[/url]


I make the dovetail on a 1/16" taper on the width. Now I know some will say that putting the taper on is hard to do, In my mind it is no harder than trying to make it straight.
Read the info on the site it is very good info.
Craig

 

[Erzulis boat]

Fantastic link-

Leaves no doubt as to proper dimensions...thanks. :thumbsup:

 

Hey Wick, what does a dovetail in the front lock down? My lid slides forward until the release spring snaps back into place and everything is snug. I'm no builder and my rifle kit had the lid and cavity pre dovetailed but not at the front. I admit that my knowledge is limited to the book, "Recreating the American Longrifle" and I like to learn new or different ways. :v

 

[LRB]

Apparently, a front dovetail is not necessary. When I made my first one, I went by my own rifle, by a local custom maker, and other guns I looked at, and at the time it all made sense to me. Now I am wondering. I have always assumed that that's the way it is done. I have a Tip Curtis gun to finish for a customer, and it is front dovetailed, however the dovetail is in a U and was machine routed, so it may have been done for convenience reasons. On my rifle, done by hand, the lid is loose enough for an easy slide until the last 1/8", then you can watch the front very slightly lower as it seats, but, I can see where the same effect could be had without the front DT. The front DT would give the lid more strength and security, but may be a case of over kill. TOW's Yeager kit is front dovetailed, but is much the same as the Curtis gun, and probably done so as not to have to reset for the router. I have seen others with this feature, but did not notice if they were routed or hand done. I have yet to see one not front dovetailed, so I just assumed. Which I know is dangerous, but I will continue to do the front DT as it takes only a little more time, and I just feel better about having this feature.

 

[Erzulis boat]

If the dovetail is not parallel (2 or 3 degrees), then having the dovetail on the nose of the lid is not really required, as the lid (if installed properly) will "come into it's own" so to speak.

But, if the dovetail is parallel, then the front dovetail will drive and align the nose, thus maintaing the lid's alignment. (if done correctly). If the TOTW Jeager is a parallel configuration without a front dovetail....well, that is the reason that I bought a blank, and will do it all myself. Granted a flat (90 degree) nose will bottom out and not shift in an angular plane, a front dovetail is still superior, engineering wise.

Of course the catch must have an angled face (approximately 7 degrees or so) to maintain constant pressure.

I am going to implement a front dovetail, as this is the crowning touch in my opinion. I am really into the details.

I also plan to recess the upper lid portion slightly (snag free and streamlined, don't care if it's PC or not) and the front dovetail will allow perfect repeatability, so that the attendant gap remains uniform.