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Patched RB?

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A HBC official on the Canadian plains wrote that a smoothie will shoot as well as a rifle to 60 yards. They don't discribe useing patchs there so the feelng is they were shooting wadded balls.And what he ment by as accurate may mean somthing different then then to a shooter at the nationals today.
I posted that I shoot both in my guns, but I do hunt with prb, because I know its tight and well sealed as I move in the woods. But for what ever reson our minds don't work logiclyI have no worries about carring a shot loaded the same way afield
Maybe if you were at a meusem event you would have to wad, otherwise shoot what works best for you. Smoothies are the most forgiving of what you feed them.
 
mtmike said:
Do you gents ever use a patched rb?
My Rice .62cal S/B barrel has a true .620" bore.
I use .600" balls and .020-.022" patches.
2.5" - 2.75" group at 50yds from a seated hunting position...tighter from the bench.

 
Interesting. I have the same problem when I see black bear tracks near where I want to sit for deer. :hmm:
 
Where I hunt 50 yards is a long shot so a smoothbore gives up little to a rifle when deer are the target. My smoothbore has a rear sight (so I have no excuses for a miss) and a tight .62 bore. I get around 3" groups at 50 yards (some larger, some smaller) with a .012" flannel patch and a lead .600" ball. Go to WW and the .606" ball doesn't take a patch without a mallet; so I shoot these bare ball. That is an op card, lubed cushion wad with ball and os card on top seated as a single unit. At 50 yards I get pie plate groups (5"-6" + or -) which is plenty fine for large game. Powder charge doesn't seem to matter that much. 60 grains to 90 grains, 3F or 2F they hit around the same poa and form a single "multigroup".

My Jeff Tanner mold (.590") can use a standard rifle patch. Both patched loads, while they can be partially pushed in the muzzle with thumb pressure, require a short starter.
 
mtmike said:
Do you gents ever use a patched rb? seems like I need to tighten up the load a bit,my guess is to much gas escape,to loose a ball.I shoot a .62 caliber with a .600 ball,over powder,wad,and over shot cards,just doesn't seem to be accurate :nono: . What do you think?

The best recipe I have found is to load just like a rifle; powder + patched ball.

Pure and simple, not to mention extremely accurate when you have worked up your best charge.

Toomuch
...............
Shoot Flint
 
i would venture to say that you should try workling a load up just like you would a rifle. When I first started shooting my smooth .58 I had a hell of a time. it shot great but was a bear to load.... im shooting a .575 ball and a .010 patch...as soon as its past the muzzle its fine. getting it there requires some persuasion. I tried a small ball but my groups opened up considerably. with ,y .575 ball and patch combo I can reliably do a 3-4 inch group at 50 yards. since its a hunting gun Im ok with it being tough to load. I prefer the accuracy. I suggest trying different ball and patch combos and see what works best for you....theres never a catch all solution in black powder...or you could just mail me the gun and lemme play wirh it
 
Bryon said:
i would venture to say that you should try workling a load up just like you would a rifle. When I first started shooting my smooth .58 I had a hell of a time. it shot great but was a bear to load.... im shooting a .575 ball and a .010 patch...as soon as its past the muzzle its fine. getting it there requires some persuasion. I tried a small ball but my groups opened up considerably. with ,y .575 ball and patch combo I can reliably do a 3-4 inch group at 50 yards. since its a hunting gun Im ok with it being tough to load. I prefer the accuracy. I suggest trying different ball and patch combos and see what works best for you....theres never a catch all solution in black powder...or you could just mail me the gun and lemme play wirh it

My point exactly. With a good patch/ball combo and after you have worked up your best charge a smoothy can be nearly as accurate as a rifle out to about 50 - 70yd.

Toomuch
...........
Shoot Flint

P.S. By the way maybe you could just drop down sometime and we could give them both a good walk.
 
Spoke to Laffindog,,he gave some solid advice,much much better accuracy, thanks to all who replied :bow:
 
it may be the gun and not the load. I have had a few smoothie flinters and I have always shot a patched ball that I can start with my thumb (not super tight) . my guns are of good quality and always have shot accurately into the expected smoothbore distances.
ou

I guess that did not answer the ball over wad question tho.
 
Billinpatti,Thanks Sir :grin: good video,,But I am afraid if I put 110 gr in this one :surrender: I would likely split the barrel huh?
This IS aggravating, IT consistency shoots way low though,cannot figure :doh:
 
In a weird twist of fate, I was at a rondy this July. Was shooting the trade gun, but walking the trail with some rifle shooters one of whom forgot his patches. He was using the same thickness I was so I gave him all of mine (only had enough for one of us) and shot the trail using huckleberry or rhodedendron leaves as wadding, whichever was immediately available at the particular station. Ended up in a tie for fourth place. About as well as I've ever done with the TG.
 
mtmike said:
This IS aggravating, IT consistency shoots way low though,cannot figure :doh:

This is a smoothbore. Most rifle shooters want to shoot their smoothbore just like the rifle. It sort of seems right to place the top of the front sight in the slot of the tang screw. Using the practice of rifle like aiming, the impact will be way low. Some people will bend the barrel to correct the point of impact. What I have found is to raise the rear sight (your eye). What has worked best for me is to see about the same part of the barrel as the sight. Instead of using your cheek bone as the anchor, use the line of your teeth as the reference.
 
Well, as you have learned everyone has their pet load.

How accurate are the smoothies? The target shooters keep a the majority of their shots inside of a clay bird at fifty yards off hand with no rear sight. They are also the folks who can hit a poker chip every time with a rifle at the same distance.

As for the rest of us mortals, if you find a load that will give you a 6 to 8 inch group at 50 yards off hand you are in norm.

I find it easiest to glue a rear sight on and shoot from the bench when working up the tightest load. Where it hits is not important just the group size.

Once you find a good group load, remove the rear sight and practice off hand.
 
Is this a smooth bore fowler or is it a smooth bore rifle? A fowler will not have a rear sight but smooth bore rifle will (usually). If you have sights, all you need to do is to first find what load gives you the best group. Then adjust your sights to get that group in the center of your target. If you are too low, just file down your front sight carefully a bit at a time until your group is where you want it. Or, raise your rear sight to move your group up. If you have no rear sight and only a bead front sight, you should turn your tang bolt just enough until the slot lines up with your barrel. Then use it as a reference when sighting. You will not be able to see your front sight through the bolt slot because the slot is below the top of your barrel. But, with practice, you will find how much space to leave above the slot when aiming. Finding that specific amount of space to allow (a form of Kentucky windage) is something that you will just have to work on. But, many have done it and you can do it, too. :thumbsup:

There is the possibility that your barrel will need to be bent to bring the POI up. I do not consider this a do it yourself project. I highly recommend that you mail your barrel to a muzzleloading gunsmith who knows what he is doing and pay him to do any bending. It's cheaper than replacing a ruined barrel from trying to bend it yourself.
 
I glue the rear sight on the flat part of my octagon to round barrel. I clean the surface with alcohol and use super glue. I remove it with a light rap from a small hammer and a wooden dowel.

My barrel is bare steel not blued or browned.

I have also used double backed thin foam tape.

I also find the glue handy when trying to find the correct location for the front sight.

Some of my barrels need the front sight slightly off center to hit point of aim.

I have a friend who just bends the barrel, I am not that brave. :wink:
 
Back in 1992, I purchased my .62 cal/20 ga CenterMark Tulle from Ray Woodall, the founder, builder, and designer of that long gun. I spent almost three hours at New Kensington, PA home, trading stories and getting the tour of his work shop (in his basement). He took me into his office to write up the order, and I noticed framed and signed targets from several national and a couple international matches. They were autographed and small notes of thank, to Ray, written on them by the shooters. They had loads written on the targets and the distances. I asked, and he allowed me to copy the load info. I used the most often listed load combination. It was 90 gr FFg Goex BP; a .600 rb wrapped in a .015 cotton patch. I thought that it was a little heavy load, but it was unbelievably accurate. I was so satisfied I didn't even test other loads. My shot load was volume not weighed, at 80 gr FFg Goex BP; over powder card; cushion wad; 120 grains of whatever size shot I was using; and an over shot card. Graet group from 20 out to 40 yards. Then it started opening up.
 
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