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Patterns from my 20ga fowler

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Todd Rickard

40 Cal.
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
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I shot several pattern boards yesterday.
I used 70 and 80 grain loads of FFg and can't see any difference in pattern size. Over the powder I use two nitro cards with a liberal amount of my 'new' lube (3 parts liquid Crisco w/ 1 part TOTW Black Powder Solvent) dribbled between. Then 1oz #7 chilled shot covered by two thin overshot cards. No shot cups or wraps.
@ 20 yrds I got a good pattern of about 20".
@ 25 yards, a good pattern about 22".
@ 35 yards the pattern had large holes that a clay bird could easily fly through.
Next week I will try using a bit more shot, like 1 1/4oz, or maybe even the 'turkey' load recomended elsewhere of 1 5/8oz. and see if it will fill in those thin spots in the pattern.
The lube works awesome. Loading was smooth and easy for the entire shooting session. The fouling feels soft rather than dry and scratchy when I reload.
This is all preliminary work to help me decide if I want to attemt to jug choke this fowler.
 
Where are the nitro cards landing in front of your barrel? ie., how many yards do they travel?

If that is an open cylinder bore fowler, 25-30 yds is going to be your limit for decent patterns, unless you use some kind of shotcup. Its not the width of the pattern at that yardage, but how evenly the pattern is covered with pellets.

Generally, the heavy cushion, and Overpowder nitro wads travel a long distance down range, often out to 25 yards, and some cushion wads will put a hole in the bottom of the pattern at that range, particularly if they are carrying lube. It is those heavy wads following the shot that tend to make " donut " holes in the center of the pattern.

Most shooters want a pattern that is a little denser in the middle 7-10 inches, than on the outer edges, particularly if they are hunting a tough bird like Turkey.

I think you were using too much powder for a 1 oz. load, so when you do increase your load of shot, leave the same powder charges and see if you don't see an improvement.

I still think you need to try Iron Jim Reckham's suggested loading of using only Over Shot cards, with 4 of them over the powder, and two over the shot. poke a hole in the outside area of each card to let air pass through, so they don't bend an edge needed to seal the bore when you load them. Just don't align those holes with each other, when loading and they work well,, They separate from each other and quickly fall away from the shot once they exit the muzzle. 10 feet to 15 feet is typical of how far from the muzzle you will find any of these cards.At that distance, the shot column is still close to bore diameter.
 
Usually, even though the pellet count is slightly less, a larger heavier pellet often helps pattern improvement too by boring straight ahead further before being influenced by deformation, wind, etc...you might try 6's instead of the 7's...
 
Paul;
I have a nice pattern with a dense center and thinner edges. The nitro cards often blow apart, or are found @ ten yards down range. I have tried just overshot cards, and it works fine, but the nitro cads are part of my lube and clean routine while shooting extended sessions without swabbing. I also load a bare ball between two nitro cards,and never worry about it moving forward, or the cupped ramrod damaging a thin overshot card. The punched overshot cards are a part of my routine - a great time saver.
I have #6 shot, so I will give it a try to see a difference in patterns, but for filling out a pattern, I think #7 1/2 has nearly 100 more pellets in a load.
I'm quite happy with the patterns, and they are exactly what I expected, although I'm considering a jug choke to get better range on clays.
 
If you can, try #5 shot also. I use this in my 12 gauge with an ounce and a 1/4 of shot, and a 75 Grains of FFg powder for both pheasant, and chukkar. It will easily kill a turkey out to 30 yds in my cylinder bore shotgun. This was the 50 yd. Duck load for the Commercial Hunters on the Illinois River back in the 1870s, and '80s.

By todays standards, it sound pretty puny, but the shot column stays together for tighter patterns at the longer ranges. I think we have better powders today, and I suspect that the powder is now more powerful, and therefore gives us more velocity than was delivered by powder made 130 years ago.

The longest killing shot I have made with that load was at about 32 yards on a pheasant flying straight away. Knocked him out of the air like he had been hit by a tennis racket.
 
Fusil, just my 2 cents . My load appears to be just about like yours . 80gr powder , thin felt,lubed wad , 8ogr(by volume)#5&7 shot , over shot card . The only difference is I use muffin mix with my shot , mixed together . I get a little over 30yds.of solid pattern . Never shot clays with it , but 17 turkeys could attest to its effectiveness if the were not dead . Just my 2 cents , good luck .
 
fusil de chasse said:
I have #6 shot, so I will give it a try to see a difference in patterns, but for filling out a pattern, I think #7 1/2 has nearly 100 more pellets in a load.
I'm quite happy with the patterns, and they are exactly what I expected, although I'm considering a jug choke to get better range on clays.
No question the 7.5s have a higher pellet count...and they would be far better for clays than #6's...in fact out club doesn't even allow 6's or larger to be fired.

My response was about a turkey load...IMO opinion the 7.5s are too light to hold long range energy for turkey hunting...20yds might be fine but I'd be worried they wouldn't penetrate / break neck bones at 40yds...that's why I went with 6s and a Jug Choke to get the long range pattern & energy
 
MY ramrod with the cupped head on it leans against a corner wall in my closet. I use a solid range rod to load and clean the gun, with a flat faced jag on it. It is much closer to bore size than the cupped head, and it does not allow the edges to curl on those OS cards. That was one think I wanted to know before I finished setting up my loading equipment, as I didn't want to lose shot, or have the shot column in one barrel move forward when the other barrel was fired.

I understand you're using the nitro cards, but I would think that using 2 OS cards on top of any RB would hold it in place just as well as the thicker Nitro card. That is the one thing about Jim Rackham's system that caught my eye, and got me excited enough to try it.

I agree with Roundball that I would not use 7 1/2 Shot to fill out my patterns, as the shot is too light. It will break clay targets out to 40 yards, of course, but those are much different than the neck of a turkey.

I think you would have to hit that turkey with 2 times the number of pellets at 30 yds to kill it as you would using #5 shot, my preferred shot for heavy birds, to get the same ft. lbs. of energy on the neck.( The Lyman shotshell Handbook shows a MV of 1135, and pellet energy for 7 1/2 shot at 3.58 ft. lbs., compared to 7.35 ft. lbs. for the same velocity and #5 shot. At 20 yds. pellet energy drops to 1.91 for the 7 1/2 shot, and 4.42 ft. lbs. for #5 shot. At 40 yds, ( to support Roundball's observation), pellet energy for the 7 1/2 shot is down to 1.17 ft. lbs. per pellet, while the #5 shot retains 2.92 ft. lbs., almost 3 times the energy left in the 7 1/2 pellet at that distance! And, to also support Roundball's observation, his #6 shot retains 2.08 ft. lbs. of energy at 40 yds, almost twice what the 7 1/2 shot pellet does at the same range, with the same muzzle velocity. )At 20 yds, the #6 pellet retains 3.19 ft. lbs. of energy, and eight of those pellets on the neck and head of a turkey at that distance is generally going to kill that bird. To have the same killing power, with 7 or 7 1/2 shot pellets at 20 yards, you would have to get 12 hits on the head and neck. Using #5, only 6 pellets would have to hit the head and neck, Half of what you are now using.

Since #7 is not a shot size that is commonly used here in the Sstates( you can buy it, but its more available in Europe where they shoot International Clay sports with it, but its a special order item, and jobbers don't always have it in stock. Its worse than ordering #5 shot, by comnparison. I have seen it only once at a jobber's warehouse, and didn't buy it, simply because I didn't have any reloading information to use to load my hulls with it, and would have had to fudge the data for 7 1/2 and 6 shot sizes.

Doing a little extrapolation of the data, since the tables only give pellet energy at muzzle, 20, 40 and 60 yds, in order to derive a pellet energy at 30 yds, I get pellet energy values of:

#7 1/2 = 1.54 ft. lbs. per pellet at 30 yds.
#6 = 2.64 Ft. lbs. per pellet at 30 yds.
#5 = 3.67 Ft. lbs. per pellet at 30 yds.

Using Roundball's proven performance( he did kill two birds this Spring with one shot each!)as a bench mark, to establish how many pellets have to hit a Turkey's head and neck to have a clean kill, at 40 yards, 8 pellets would deliver 25.52 ft lbs. of energy, using his #6 shot size.

To deliver that same energy at 30 yds, you need to hit that head and neck with approx. 7 #5 shot pellets, 9.4 #6 pellets, and 16.2 #7 1/2 pellets.

That is an amazing difference in pellet performance for pellets that are so close in diameter( The Rule of 17 allows you to subtract the shot size number from "17" to get the diameter in hundredths of an inch: ie, #5 = .12, #6 = .11, #7 = .10, while #7 1/2 = .09.5 " in diameter. )

Oh, I consulted the only table I have found on Black Powder velocity, in Greener's book, THE GUN AND ITS DEVELOPMENT, to find a 3 dram load of 1 1/8 oz. of #5 shot is listed at 1127 fps., 5 yds in front of the muzzle. That is pretty close to the 1135 fps. velocity given in the Lyman book as " Muzzle velocity". 3 drams is 82.5 grains of powder, as close as I can get to the 80 grain load mentioned by both Fusil, and Roundball. 3 drams of powder with a 1 1/4 oz. of shot actually reduces the velocity to 1119 fps. for #6 shot, so loading more shot with the same powder charge simply reduces the muzzle velocity and subsequent velocities.

Since its important for pattern uniformity to stay under 1100 fps., the speed of sound, so that the pellets are not buffeted by shock waves, and air currents that are created at the sound barrier, Its important to stay as close to that 1100 fps. figure as you can.

According to the Greener tables, that 3 dram, 1 1/4 oz. load of #6 shot that is traveling at 1119 at 5 yds, is already down to 1091 fps. at 10 yards, below the speed of sound. Since time lapse photograph ( and actual test targets) shows that the shot pattern does not begin to open up until 9 feet( 3 yds)in front of the muzzle, regardless of velocity, shot size, or weigh of the shot load, or barrel length, and at 10 yds, is generally only the size of a large soft ball , Sound Barrier disturbance is probably minimal with that load, or loading more shot with the same 3 dram powder charge.

What the actual velocity is that Roundball gets from his gun and that load can only be accurately measured by a chronograph. To protect the chronograph and get an accurate velocity reading, all one needs to do is make a coin wrapper type shot cup, but leave it long, so that the ends can be folded over the top of the shot load, to make a fragmenting " slug " instead of a shot load that spreads. Since you are generally going to set the chronograph 5-10 feet, sometimes 20 feet in front of the muzzle, The slug will stay together and pass over the screen as one projectile, giving an accurate reading of the velocity of the shot at that short distance from the muzzle. Since muzzle velocity is measured at some short distance from the muzzle on any gun, to keep expanding gases from going over the screens, and giving false readings, the results one obtains will be fairly close to published data. If it isn't, its because there is something different in the load that is causing a loss of velocity.

For instance, My first test of my .20 ga. fowler gave a disappointing 800 fps. using 75 grains of powder( 2 3/4 drams) and a 3/4 oz. round ball instead of a 3/4 oz. load of shot. I found out that my barrel is oversized, and ordered some 19 gauge over powder and over shot wads, and the velocity went immediately up to abou 1060 fps, a substantial gain, which also brought the POI up on my 25 yd. target. about 6 inches.

Roundball's gun, this year, used a barrel that he had Jug Choked, and I have no doubt it made a difference on his longer shot. He is to be given credit for his research, and wisdom in having one barrel jug choked just to use for turkey hunting. He is a good enough hunter to get birds within 20 yds, but he gave himself an edge in case some ole Tom decided he wasn't going to be sweet talked into coming in that close. :hatsoff:
 
Thanks for all the great infomation. Your results seem to be in line with my research too. Unfortunatly in my northern location I don't get to turkey hunt (no birds here), and I've given up waterfowl hunting.
Right now my interest lies in getting a good pattern that will break clays, hence the 7.5 shot load. I'm also interested to see if I can modify the choke myself to improve the patterns.
As for penetration of 7.5 shot. At 25 - 30 yrds the little shot would penetrate the heaviest cardbord (3/8" thick!) and imbed themselves into the hard fir boards underneath. They were visible, just burried their own depth in the wood. I would choose a larger shot size for tough game at anyting over 20 yards.
Just a notation to show how tight the pattern is at 17 yrds using #6 shot, I got 46 hits on a soda can! with over 80 holes in it (entrance and exit), the can is a mess and would have been destroyed if it was a small game animal. At least my pattern with this load configuration has a nice dense center!
 
When people think of how a shotgun throws a pattern, they should be thinking of the bell on a trombone, because that pattern does not open up linearly( uniformly, ike a straight lined funnel) over distance. Rather, it opens up faster and faster the further it gets from the muzzle. That is because air pushed against all sides of the pellet, and not just at the nose or front of the pellet as it travels through the air. So, the air is both slowing the pellet down, and pushing it away from other pellets at the same time.

To take advantage of this phenomenon, at short yardage clay target games, shooter use light loads of very hard shot, buffered, so that the charge can travel at very high speed while still staying together on the course of fire. The Olympic Trap and Skeet matches are shot from 17 yards, and not the longer 27 yards in American Trap, for instance. The shooters shoot a 24 gram load( a few pellets less than a 7/8 oz. load) of #7 shot, buffered, plated, and with a high antimony content to keep it from deforming, at over 1300 fps. This get the shot to the target, at about 35 yards, before the pattern can open up enough to produce holes that a target can slip through. The shot moves so fast to the target that shooters find they don't have to lead targets the way they do with American Trap. Skeet shooters report the same thing: they just put the bead on the target and slap the trigger. The shot is moving so fast the target is broken much quicker, and generally is a puff ball of smoke if the target is centered with the bead.
 
Very good Paul I shoot the same load from my 20Ga 75 grs 2f. 1 1/4oz. #6 shot.I shot a hen turkey flying with this load she was 30 yds away. As soon as I touched the trigger she was feet up dropping like a rock. This load follows that rule 1/3 more shot than nitrous dust. Nitrous dust being the powder. I shoot 80grs 2f 1 1/2 oz. shot from my 12 Ga with great results
 
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