pedersoli flintlock

[Kyle B66]

Any good locks out there to replace the stock Pedersoli flint lock on the kentucky? It works fine but it really eats up my flints and they are not getting any cheaper.

 

[nebraska steve]

I have the same rifle. I shimed the flint with lead, so far I have not noticed it being hard on my flint. Maybe you can change the angle slightly for more mileage.

 

[ebiggs1]

You can buy a lot of flints for the price of a new lock. I suggest to try different locations and mounting methods before ditching the lock. Mine works fine. It is not as good as my TCs but it is good. :grin:

 

[ohio ramrod]

Mine ate flints perty bad until I sanded the frizen spring to "lighten" the frizzen. Now I get about four times the life I origionally got. :idunno:

 

[Trench]

I too filed down the top of the frizzen spring and then polished the snot out of it until it shined like a mirror. Add some oil and you're good to go.

 

[Black Jack]

Trench,
Whe you say you filed down the top of the frizzen spring, what part exactly did you file down to lessen the resistance to the frizzen opening? That is, did you file the spring along its entire length? At the bend of the frizzen spring? Just the part that bears on the frizzen? I have a couple I'd like to lighten up but am hazy on just how to do this. Thanks, Jack

 

[Trench]

I filed the top of the spring where the toe of the frizzen contacts it. In this picture, the part where the toe was contacting was almost twice as thick than what it is in this picture. I then took my dremel to it and polished it to a mirror finish.

Filing the contact point down takes tension out of the spring and polishing makes it nice and slick. A dot of oil on that contact point and also on the frizzen screw help reduce friction.

 

[Black Jack]

Thanks for taking the time to answer. What you did is clear to me now.

 

[Ike Godsey]

I filed the top of the spring where the toe of the frizzen contacts it. In this picture, the part where the toe was contacting was almost twice as thick than what it is in this picture. I then took my dremel to it and polished it to a mirror finish.

Filing the contact point down takes tension out of the spring and polishing makes it nice and slick. A dot of oil on that contact point and also on the frizzen screw help reduce friction.

your flint is mounted the wrong way. that is a "Hatfield" lock. its a good lock - turn around the flint, that works better. the flint will touch the frizzen on a higher point - that increases the power to open the frizzen much easier than on a lower point of impact. non eed to work on the frizzen spring.

 

[hanshi]

I respectfully disagree on flipping the flint to bevel down. Often when a flint is bevel down it places the flint in a position to hit the frizzen almost head on. This can not only shatter a flint but will also cut gouges in the frizzen face. The flint should strike the frizzen at an angle of around 60 degrees so it scrapes down the frizzen and doesn't strike it too directly. Sometimes bevel down works simply because it does place the flint in position for a 60 degree scrape. Best to start bevel up and work with flint spacing before going to bevel down. Always place the flint so its strike is at that 60 degree mark. It only needs to scrape down the bottom 2/3 of the frizzen face.

 

[Ike Godsey]

I respectfully disagree on flipping the flint to bevel down. Often when a flint is bevel down it places the flint in a position to hit the frizzen almost head on. This can not only shatter a flint but will also cut gouges in the frizzen face. The flint should strike the frizzen at an angle of around 60 degrees so it scrapes down the frizzen and doesn't strike it too directly. Sometimes bevel down works simply because it does place the flint in position for a 60 degree scrape. Best to start bevel up and work with flint spacing before going to bevel down. Always place the flint so its strike is at that 60 degree mark. It only needs to scrape down the bottom 2/3 of the frizzen face.

the way he flint is shown in the picture (notice the half ****) shows me, that the flint will hit the frizzen in its lower 1/3. that is way to low to make good sparks.
i shoot a Pedersoli "frontier" or "hatfield" for several years (i think since 1994 or so) and i always use the fints bevel up will simply work better unless you have not bend your frizzen toward the hammer.

so if the lock is its original configuration, turn the fint, put it in the hammer the correct way, make sure the flint hits the frizzen and you will at least have more than 70 shots per flint. wanna bet?

here is the way to check this:
a) safe the pic to your PC.
b) open the pic with "paint"
c) draw a rectangle over the flint - as long as the lower sinde is and as hing as the flint is.
d) now see were the point is were the flint touches the frizzen.

that point of impact gives you

a) a longer way the flint strikes down the frizzen, therefor more sparks
b) a better lever to open the frizzen.

ike

 

[Ike Godsey]

here is what i ment:

 

[Trench]

Thanks for the tips, but I don't own the rifle any more.

 

[ebiggs1]

Sorry to disagree but I am going with hanshi. The flint is in that lock as it should be. And it is in there the same way I use it in mine. The problem with your “box” idea is, you don't have it exactly square with the flint. That flint will strike in the upper ½ of the frizzen, possibly closer to the top 2/3rds.

 

[Ike Godsey]

since the owner has alreay sold his rifle, it does not matter anyhow.
but, just to make that clear: if he way you're mounting your flint is OK for you, than do so. i have better results the other way around and i explained why in an earlier post.

there is no need to work on the frizzen spring. do you think the italian gumakers are dummies? this lock works perfect if the flint is seated correctly.

anyway, the rifle is sold so what?

ike

 

[Black Jack]

I think it would depend on the individual lock involved. It's a function of lock geometry as the flint will change angles as the **** pivots. Also, the strength of that particular frizzen spring, friction of the bearing surfaces determined by how well parts are polished, etc.

 

[Ike Godsey]

I think it would depend on the individual lock involved. It's a function of lock geometry as the flint will change angles as the **** pivots. Also, the strength of that particular frizzen spring, friction of the bearing surfaces determined by how well parts are polished, etc.

those frizzen springs for example are made by hundrets, all in te same way - there is no chance that one will be harder or softer than the other.

again, if the frizzen opens (and will spark correctly and will not destroy flints) the angle must be right.
everyone knows, that a longer lever would need less power to move a certin kind of weight.
the frizzen with its spring is the weight - the point were the flint hits the frizzen - and here that point to the frizzen screw gives a "lever" - the longer that lever the easier the frizzen "works". to lengthen that lever the flint must impac on a higher spot.

 

[54ball]

your flint is mounted the wrong way. that is a "Hatfield" lock. its a good lock - turn around the flint, that works better. the flint will touch the frizzen on a higher point - that increases the power to open the frizzen much easier than on a lower point of impact. non eed to work on the frizzen spring.

Sometimes I feel like Bevel up, sometimes I Don't....

Mostly it depends on the flint. Sometimes they look right but jam the works. Sometimes they look like they would hit too low but function well.

My experience, it depends on the flint.

OP

Do polish the frizzen with about 400grit or at least some fine steel wool. Sometimes a rough frizzen face will grab the flint causing breakage.
A smoother face allows the frizzen to skate or slide better promoting better sparks.

You will not remove the horizontal chatter marks but you will smooth them. Those chatter marks if to rough can, as said above, grab your flint and cause breakage.

 

[Ike Godsey]

your flint is mounted the wrong way. that is a "Hatfield" lock. its a good lock - turn around the flint, that works better. the flint will touch the frizzen on a higher point - that increases the power to open the frizzen much easier than on a lower point of impact. non eed to work on the frizzen spring.

Sometimes I feel like Bevel up, sometimes I Don't....

Mostly it depends on the flint. Sometimes they look right but jam the works. Sometimes they look like they would hit too low but function well.

My experience, it depends on the flint.

OP

i agree.
but look at the original picture. the hammer is in half **** and the flit is very far away from the frizzen.
if one fires this gun, the flint will come in contact with the frizzen at the lower 1/3 of the frizzen - that is WAY TOO LOW.

ike

 

[ebiggs1]

anyway, the rifle is sold so what?

Point well made. :bow:
I will say on the three Pedersoli's I own, the frizzen spring could hold up a Mack truck. They are way too strong.
IMHO, their locks are no where near as good as a TC or Lyman and are more difficult to get them as good. :hmm: