pedersoli lock removal?

[sickle hocks]

After reading a bunch of threads on cleaning, I wanted to learn how to pull the lock off a pedersoli country hunter. It's not that obvious to me yet...

It is a right hander, on the left side there is a large screw and washer which i think is the 'long lock plate screw'. On the right side at the front of the lock is a 'short lock plate screw'...but it is partly covered by the frizzen spring.

It looks like i need to remove the frizzen spring, and then the two lock plate screws...but it seemed odd to have to remove a spring? Am i on the right track?

(there is a slow load pdf diagram here
Link

thanks so much..

 

[Jumpshot]

No need to remove the spring. Just remove the long lock screw (or screws, if there are two of them) from the left side, then you can pull the entire lock assembly out of it's mortice.

 

[sickle hocks]

Great, thanks so much...I'll give it a try.

 

[t-buck]

it may help to back the screws out a couple of turns then tap them to start the lock out of the mortise
back a couple more turns and repeat tapping
if the lock is tight in the mortise this will help and you will not mess the wood up by trying to pry it out
t-buck

 

[Jumpshot]

Another thing that helps is to hold the hammer and sort of wiggle and jiggle the lock as you remove it. That helps get it out if it's a tight fit and avoid damaging the wood around the edge of the mortice.

 

[mazo kid]

On the schematic drawing, it "appears" to have a wood screw for the front of the lock plate. See if the lock will come off when backing the "long lock plate screw" a couple of turns and gently tapping on it. Only saying this as I am not familiar with that rifle and don't want to see you make a blunder that might cause harm to the stock. Jumpshot (and the others) seems to know what they are talking about, so there may be no issue.

 

[sc45-70]

I think you will have to remove the screw under the frizzen spring.
Pedersoli sometimes uses a wood screw in the front of the lockplate.

If you have to remove the frizzen spring it may be wise to not put the front wood screw back in as the long rear screw will hold the lockplate in place just fine by itself.

SC45-70

 

[Jumpshot]

I think you're right about that front screw.

 

[sickle hocks]

Ok, I can't get to this until tonight but I'll try carefully.

I thought this would be part of my regular cleaning routine, but maybe I can get by without it...it seems like if they intended it to come out frequently they wouldn't have buried that front screw behind the frizzen spring. And a wood screw isn't going to stand up to a lot of repeat tightenings before the hole gets worn. Or perhaps i'll leave it out as suggested.


It feels like there might be a bit of tension on the frizzen spring, even with the frizzen open, so it might be fun getting it put back on..? or maybe it fits just perfectly...

 

[Stubert]

Removing the lock for cleaning is not optional. It is required maintenence.

 

[sickle hocks]

Well, that went fine..no big deal at all, I'm almost embarrassed about asking. :redface:
It's helpful to see what the guts of the thing look like.

The wood screw on the front right does have to come out. I can imagine someday if that hole wears I will have to fill it with epoxy/sawdust and re-drill it. For now I put it all back together without getting any screws crazy tight.

Thanks all..

 

[paulvallandigham]

The tricks to dealing with wood screws are:

Put the screw in with your finger tips, so that you can FEEL the screw threads marry to the threads in the wood. You should be able to turn the wood screw several times, before you feel resistance enough to require a screw driver.

Put a witness mark on the stock in line with the slot in the screw, so that you don't turn the screw too far, and break the wood threads. This is the usual cause of problems that require filling the hole with wood dust and glue, then redrilling the hole after the glue dries. These screws need to be SNUG only, not tightened down like auto nuts and bolts do. Turn the screw down to your witness mark, and STOP.

I had a wood screw as a tang "bolt" in my rifle for more than 20 years, taking it out after every shoot so that I could clean my barrel in a bucket of water. The wood screw was still tight, with no evidence of damage after all that time. An old crack in the stock decided to open up again, and my brother took the gun to fix it. He and Phil Quaglino decided I needed a full tang bolt that screws into the trigger plate, so they drilled the hole out and put in a bolt after they fixed the crack. I am sure the repair will make the stock stronger, and I appreciate Phil's expertise. But, I miss that wood screw in the tang. I had it set so that the slot was in line with the sights on the barrel. :grin: :hmm: :hatsoff: :hatsoff:

 

[tg]

"Removing the lock for cleaning is not optional. It is required maintenence.'

I think many longtime shooters will say that removing the lock need not be done everytime the gun is cleaned but more based on how much shooting was done between shotings if I just shoot to unload my gun after a days hunt I do not remove the lock unless I got caught in a monsoon, lock removal when cleaning can be somewhat optional depending on the particular situation. IMHO

 

[Jumpshot]

If you're going to be shooting/cleaning it frequently, I'd do like sc45-70 suggested and leave that screw out. The main lock screw holds it good. Try it with just the main screw in and see how secure it feels.

 

[sickle hocks]

Ok, thanks for the thoughts guys. I like the idea of living with that screw, and just being precise about it. But it's nice to know that it may not be an essential component.