Pedersoli Sharps 1859 Carbine Issues

[Wozzy Mumbo]

I have a Pedersoli Sharps 1859 Carbine I got recently and shot once, approximately 10 rounds of paper cartridges. The rifle worked fine for firing, but I found that the breech block has become very sticky. I scraped my thumb shoving it out and have a hard time putting it back even after thorough cleaning. I have checked the chamber liner, and it moves cleanly and freely. The block also hangs up before it reaches the sleeve, so I don't think the issue is there.

I have not been able to disassemble the breech block. The higher of the two screws seems extremely stubborn, and I'm worried about damaging it even with the correct screwdriver. I understand the breech face is a plate that can be removed, but does the screw need to come out first? If so, what should I do to avoid damaging the screw?


Also, is there anything I can/should do to get better ignition? I unfortunately only have the "new" CCI winged musket caps at my disposal right now and while they work for my Enfield, they had a hard time setting it off if the back of the paper cartridge was not sheered off. Anything I can do to improve the caps or ignition?

 

[kh54]

I don’t own a Pedersoli and I can’t speak to the first issue you describe, but others will undoubtedly be along to help soon.

I bought an IAB 1859 Sharps. I didn’t have ignition problems but the usual fouling issues at the breech block were discouraging. I sent it to Charlie Hahn for his mod and he also found that someone had forced a nipple with wrong threads into the breech block. He replaced the nipple but when I got it back I had many misfires on my first trip to the range. Back home I took the smallest drill bit from my box (1/16 I think) and drilled the nipple. No more ignition problems.

God luck on your journey!

 

[dave951]

What powder are you using?

Pics of what part of the block would help.

Both my Sharps have the Larry Flees mod and I can run them for as long as I want. Also, I use the pink Mobil1 grease on the block and it doesn't have any issues with fouling.

 

[rafterob]

I believe shearing off the back of the cartridge is essential to prompt ignition.

 

[hawkeye2]

Charlie Hahn told me the best nipple for a Sharps is a well used Springfield nipple.

 

[Rfp10000]

I believe shearing off the back of the cartridge is essential to prompt ignition.

I have not had that experience at all. I use the Hahn tubes with hair curler paper at the breech end with virtually 100% success. My cartridges fit flush to the breech plate.
I started with a new gun however & really clean the block thoroughly after each trip as well as freeing the chamber sleeve.
I found very hot water was necessary to to clear some stubborn hard fouling in one area of the block but whatever ignition has not been an issue. I do grease the block & sleeve well after cleaning.

 

[hawkeye2]

I (and a friend) use Hahn tubes with paper bandage tape over the end without problems.

 

[Smokybob]

I recommend getting in contact with Larry Flees he can rework your breach block to work properly. Like someone mentioned above pics of the issue would help get a more helpful answer.

 

[hawkeye2]

Charlie Hahn also does an excellent rework of the breech and fire path. Both Hahn and Flees are highly recommended and while expensive the job is probably worth it if you plan on shooting the Sharps much.

The passages in the breech block need to be thoroughly cleaned which means removing all the screws.

Replace the CCI caps with RWS or Schutzen when you can find some.

 

[Erwan]

I scraped my thumb shoving it out and have a hard time putting it back even after thorough cleaning.

What is the model of the falling block of this Pedersoli Sharps, the block with nothing else than the two steel rings (not always) behind the mobile plate or the model with O rings and removable nipple screwed in the block and no floating chamber ?
I have the oldest model without O rings and I use the RWS #1081 caps (four wings), flax cartridges or nitrated paper and no particular problem before the 20th cartridge : that begin to be a bit harder, so with a bit of 1813 BP solvent (can't find it in the USA but I've the recipe if you like) on the block and all is gone for a new series of twenty shots...
The model with O rings and no floating chamber is sometime a bit harder to put back in place after cleaning...

 

[Wozzy Mumbo]

What is the model of the falling block of this Pedersoli Sharps, the block with nothing else than the two steel rings (not always) behind the mobile plate or the model with O rings and removable nipple screwed in the block and no floating chamber ?
I have the oldest model without O rings and I use the RWS #1081 caps (four wings), flax cartridges or nitrated paper and no particular problem before the 20th cartridge : that begin to be a bit harder, so with a bit of 1813 BP solvent (can't find it in the USA but I've the recipe if you like) on the block and all is gone for a new series of twenty shots...
The model with O rings and no floating chamber is sometime a bit harder to put back in place after cleaning...

I have a floating chamber, but can't get the breech plate off to see if there's any kind of o-ring in there. It's all stock as it came from Pedersoli, though. My cartridges are made with un-nitrated tracing paper, though I have gotten some stump remover to try for the next batch. The paper seemed to burn well enough.

What powder are you using?

Pics of what part of the block would help.

Both my Sharps have the Larry Flees mod and I can run them for as long as I want. Also, I use the pink Mobil1 grease on the block and it doesn't have any issues with fouling.

Powder is Graf & Son's FFG. With a little more foresight I might have tried greasing up the plate before I shot it, but now I need to get it apart as it is.

What do you think I should take a picture of on it? Right now it's just as it came, if a little cruddy in the corners my brushes couldn't reach. I'm soaking it in ballistol and water at the moment before taking another try at the screw.

Charlie Hahn also does an excellent rework of the breech and fire path. Both Hahn and Flees are highly recommended and while expensive the job is probably worth it if you plan on shooting the Sharps much.

The passages in the breech block need to be thoroughly cleaned which means removing all the screws.

Replace the CCI caps with RWS or Schutzen when you can find some.

I've heard of the re-works available for these guns and considered them, but I didn't have any problems with escaping gas when I shot it and that's what most people talked about as the advantage Improved ignition might be worth it, if that's what's needed to use these caps.

Stronger caps of course would be great, but I have what I could get.



Thanks, all.

Update: Mission success! The plate came off relatively easy after a good soak. Screw took a bit more work, but came out without damage.

There's no other parts in there under it, metal or rubber. I'm going to grease things up and shoot it again this weekend to see how that goes.

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

I just bought a Smith carbine. Going to see how it does. It uses plastic hulls.

 

[Erwan]

I have a floating chamber, but can't get the breech plate off to see if there's any kind of o-ring in there.

Look is the chamber is really free and greased, push it in the barrel, that can sometime help to insert the block (Pedersoli make a tool for that)...
When a plate doesn't want to move, there are usually two reasons: the plate is not clean or the plate doesn't want to move due to oxidation.
On Pedersoli plates you have two curves and in these curves you can insert a brass "screwdriver" and move the plate near the front of the drop block and remove it.
- BP solvent (or rust remover if necessary).
- Moving the plate.
- Cleaning.
- Drying.
- Grease and put in place until the next day of shooting...
Click on pictures:

 

[Smokybob]

Now I want a 1859 Sharps

 

[dave951]

Mobil1 Synthetic grease works great. It also doesn't react with the black powder fouling. It's the only grease I use on both my Sharps.

 

[Wozzy Mumbo]

Brief range report:

Gun worked fine and ignited with a bit of powder in the nipple. Fouled up after 5 rounds though, and was a pain to take apart again. I'd lubed it with white lithium grease, but I'll have to try something else. The plate was stuck tight to the block.

 

[TC]

I have had much success using permatex anti seize lube on the block and in the block behind the plate and on the nipple threads. A good amount keeps the fouling out. I even use it around the chamber sleeve.

 

[dave951]

Brief range report:

Gun worked fine and ignited with a bit of powder in the nipple. Fouled up after 5 rounds though, and was a pain to take apart again. I'd lubed it with white lithium grease, but I'll have to try something else. The plate was stuck tight to the block.

Mobil1 synthetic grease. Not like I shoot one in competition or anything......

 

[TC]

Since i have some I wiil try the mobile 1 synthetic grease next time i shoot mine.

 

[Wozzy Mumbo]

I didn't have any Mobile 1 to hand, but I will definitely try that next. I'm also increasingly pushed towards the modification systems, since everyone who has them seems pretty happy.