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Pro Libertate

40 Cal
Joined
Feb 26, 2024
Messages
102
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107
Location
Hayden, ID
I’m currently working out of town and just came across this guy at a pawn shop on in the area. It’s labeled a “Tennessee Long Rifle” and has a price tag of $1,295. I thought about making an offer, but apparently it’s a consignment item and the seller is firm on the price. It’s chambered in .45, has an excellent bore, and some nice accoutrements… although I was more than a little surprised to see the ramrod unfinished and lacking any hardware (it’s just bare doweling).

I’m in the market for another flintlock, and you rarely see them around these parts, but I was wondering how you all felt regarding its price? Does $1,275 seem reasonable to you? I recently purchased a Bruce Hamlin flintlock (also in .45) for $1,400 that seems to be leaps and bounds better in terms of fit and finish.

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Is there a signature on the barrel? Considering the shape it is in, it has to be a contemporary build.
There doesn’t appear to be any markings aside from a lightly stamped “KB” on the barrel. A cursory Google search didn’t turn up anything insofar as what manufacturer that might refer to.
 
The rifle looks like someone with skill built it. The parts alone would be north of $900. I agree that the kiblers aren’t much more and are a really nice rifle. But if they don’t scratch yer itch?
 
Thanks for chiming in, guys. A Kibler is definitely in my future, but as someone who works full-time and has four kids under the age of six, my free time is incredibly limited. Maybe a winter project.

You’ve both given me something to think about.

I noticed that in order to **** the gun the set/rear trigger must be pulled first. Do you believe it was made to function in this way or is it more likely that something is broke/needs adjustment?
 
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I have a plains rifle that was build with set triggers that must be set before the gun will **** Just the way it was build, not a problem. Takes a few times to get used to.

ADK Bigfoot
Interesting! Doesn’t that negate the point of having a dual trigger set up though? I mean, you’ve no longer got a standard/hair trigger configuration. I just can’t help but wonder why anyone would want that design, and what purpose it would serve.
 
Interesting! Doesn’t that negate the point of having a dual trigger set up though? I mean, you’ve no longer got a standard/hair trigger configuration. I just can’t help but wonder why anyone would want that design, and what purpose it would serve.
I've heard of other rifles that use this method. The front trigger should still function as a hair trigger depending on how it's adjusted. As to the reason behind the design I don't know.
 
I've heard of other rifles that use this method. The front trigger should still function as a hair trigger depending on how it's adjusted. As to the reason behind the design I don't know.
Huh! You learn something new every day! It’d be interesting to know what the reasoning is behind that.
 
Interesting! Doesn’t that negate the point of having a dual trigger set up though? I mean, you’ve no longer got a standard/hair trigger configuration. I just can’t help but wonder why anyone would want that design, and what purpose it would serve.
The triggers may have been set up that way to work with a lock that didn’t have a fly. Some triggers don’t have a bar on the front trigger so it can only be used as a set trigger. I’m with you and prefer having both a set or unset system.
 
I noticed that in order to **** the gun the set/rear trigger must be pulled first. Do you believe it was made to function in this way or is it more likely that something is broke/needs adjustment?
Those are the old North Star triggers. They are made that way. You might be able to put a screw under the mainspring to put a little slack in the spring. That will let you **** the lock without setting the triggers. You just drill and tap a hole in the trigger plate under the arch of the spring. Then install a screw to raise it a little. That will lower the rear trigger bar, but it will still trip the sear. I use 4-40 screws with a little wax or something to prevent the screw from vibrating out. I have just mashed the threads to make them stiffer.

That is an older gun with a Siler lock. I would inlet the rear triggerguard tang. To me it sits a little above the wood. Because I don't care for straight barrels, I would price it at $8-900.
 
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It looks very much like a Dixie Gun Works southern mountain rifle to me with some parts inletted into the stock.
You know what? You may be onto something! The Dixie Gun Works Southern Mountain Rifle also had that bowl for tallow/grease in the stock, though this one has obviously been modified.

Do you recall what those rifles were selling for when they were being offered by Dixie?
 
Their Dixies had their own Ashmore locks not Silers. They also had the short rail triggerguards. The profile is also different also the triggers. Building a new rifle would have been easier than modifying a Dixie Mountain Rifle.
 
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Thanks for the input. Considering the rifle’s priced at several hundred dollars more than your valuation, I’ll pass for now. Maybe, if it hasn’t sold in a few months and after the seller’s had a chance to stew, I’ll offer $900 and see if he bites.
 
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