Permalyn or Tried and True

[painter]

I'm going to order an SMR from Kibler.

Do I want to order the Permalyn sealer that Jim sells, or Tried and True? If Tried and True, which mix?

TIA...

 

[Zonie]

For what it's worth, I don't use any sealer of any kind on the stocks I've finished. I see no need for it. This applies to both maple and walnut.
After sanding, dewhiskering and staining, he finishing oil does a nice job of protecting and sealing the wood.

 

[cjbrown_2000]

I made my own BLO/beeswax blend. Cheaper than Tried and True and worked out pretty well. It was about 85% BLO, 15% beeswax.

 

[Booneliane]

I’ve used permalyn on one stock, walnut.

I liked it. I’d use it again.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

Jim used Tried and True in one of his videos. He mixed it with some turpentine most likely as a thinner and dryer. I will be trying a 50/50 TT & Turpentine 1st coat, then 100%TT subsequent multiple coats very soon on my Kibler. I have a thread on here posting my progress. I'll let you know what I think when I get to that point.

 

[Fly Navy]

I've used and like Tried & True, but it takes a long time to dry. However I don't think anything else can give you that beautiful oil finish look.

 

[painter]

Jim used Tried and True in one of his videos. He mixed it with some turpentine most likely as a thinner and dryer. I will be trying a 50/50 TT & Turpentine 1st coat, then 100%TT subsequent multiple coats very soon on my Kibler. I have a thread on here posting my progress. I'll let you know what I think when I get to that point.

I watched that video, and I'm watching the progress of your build. I'm assuming you're going to use the 'Original' Formula T&T?

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

@painter No Jim used the varnish. That's what I'm going to use too. It has some resins in it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003DKXWO...abc_Y24NYN8PAJJRRMFWKVWZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[starman]

Hatchet-Jack What is the name of your thread concerning your Kibler build? Thanks.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

Hatchet-Jack What is the name of your thread concerning your Kibler build? Thanks.

Here's a link:
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...s-arrived-its-going-to-be-a-fun-build.130128/

 

[Col. Batguano]

+1 on the Tried `n True taking forever to dry. I finished one stock with it in late summer and on in to September when we had very high humidity and it took about 2 weeks for each coat to harden up. Now that we're in mid March, and inside humidity is about 3%, it should dry much faster. A drop of Japan Drier in to your application dish will help things along.

 

[Phil Coffins]

The Tried n True brand that is BLO and beeswax is what I bought not thinking that there were others. It’s a gel and I cut it with turpentine for a first coat on maple. It’s very SLOW to set up! The varnish that Jim uses would be what I would buy next time, but more then likely I’ll stick with BC Tru Oil as it’s worked very well for me for over 40 years. I don’t hesitate to throw out the small bottle that has started to set up because the work I’ve put into a project is greater then the few dollars of a fresh bottle of finish.

 

[painter]

I guess I'll wait until I get the rifle built to order the finish. I have a lot of experience with finishes on metal, but very little with wood. On metal gloss is usually preferred, but I don't want a really glossy finish, or one that looks like plastic. From the reading I've done, so far, the gloss level of the Permalyn can be adjusted by rubbing with a coarse wool blanket.

Have any of you gents ever used Timberluxe? Wood Finish — TimberLuxe From the msds it looks like 25% Linseed oil, 25% sunflower oil, with the rest being a mix of chemicals, mostly solvents, I'm familiar with from my painting career. The videos on the site make it look pretty easy, and some people on other unmentionable forums have used it on more modern guns with good initial results, but I have no idea about the long term durability.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

On walnut stocks I fill the pores with whatever polyurethane I have on hand while rubbing in pumice or rottenstone with a little bone black thrown in to darken it. After several coats of this I sand it down to the wood with water and 320 -400 grit paper. When that is good and dry is when I add any stain and linseed oil. After a couple of weeks I go back to the poly rubbing it on with more pumice or rottenstone depending on the shine I want. Rub on a coat and wipe it dry with a blue paper shop towel. This looks like a good oil finish and has the water resistance of several coats of polyurethane. I'm working on one now and I'll post a picture when it's done.

 

[painter]

Zonie...what finish is on your guns?

 

[Booneliane]

Anybody use the tried and true danish oil?

 

[COTNTOP]

Permalyn is quick and easy. You can thin Permalyn to make the sealer.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Here are some photos of the stock semi-filled with Minwax wipe on poly and pumice then wet sanded down. It has 2 coats of alkanet stain, 2 coats of linseed, and some darkening with Fiebings ebony dye. After a few days at 75-80 degrees and 20% humidity I'll rub on some more poly and pumice.

 

[Zonie]

Zonie...what finish is on your guns?

Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. 10 to 15 coats of it.

 

[Whitworth]

Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. 10 to 15 coats of it.

Zonie I've used that years ago with good results too. I have Parker Hale stock that I'm waiting for warm weather to Tru-Oil. From that picture you posted I deduce you like firearms, railroads and old Hoppes bottles