You need to make a dam to keep the pour where you want it; file folders make a good dam. Just cut up the file folder or similar material into managable pieces and use tape to make a good tight fit on the handle and extend it over the area where you want the pewter. Leave the end open to pour into. It may sound strange but it's really easy. The pewter cools quickly then just remove the dam and use files, sandpaper or whatever to smooth it the way you want it.
What holds the cap in place once it sets ? Should I drill a few shallow holes in the wood to give it some extra bite ? Also,I have a supply of electrical solder,can it be used in place of pewter ?
I was wondering about that too. I'm have a GPR and Investarm Hawken build coming up and am thinking about pouring a nose cap on one or maybe both. Do we undercut for a mechanical lock and how thick should the pewter be for structural integrity?
The ones I have seen have a square groove on the underside of the wood scales that the pewter runs into. Sort of like a tang for the pewter. A lot of table knives have a rivet. I think those were cast seperate and put on later.
As others have mentioned, you can undercut the area a bit or put in a blind pin. When the pewter has cooled and the card dam removed, if you have any voids you can use a soldering iron to melt in more pewter and then smooth it off. You can use lead free solder instead of pewter if that is all you have. Emery
The way I do is I use small brass screws. I drill a pilot hole and insert the screw. On the head end I will use 2 or 3 screws. On the other I will use a larger and longer screw. A touch of solder paste flux on the head of the screw before pouring ensures a good bond. I have use this method for years without any breaking loose.
Stuart
