Pewter question on tomahawk build

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Swamp Buck

40 Cal.
Joined
Oct 31, 2005
Messages
227
Reaction score
0
Ok, this is another question on the tomahawk that I am working on. So far I have the tomahawk head positioned to where I want it on the handle and have 3 out of the six diamond shaped inlays installed.

I was planing on using the pewter supplied with the kit to put decorative bands around the handle in several places.

My question is this, how deep should I make the channels or rings cut/filed into the handle to make sure of two things: #1, the melted pewter flows around the handle inside the mold properly, and #2, I don't run out of the pewter supplied with the kit?

I was thinking the channels should be about 1/8th inch or so deep. I know I can always get more pewter but I didn't want to run out and have one of the molds poured half full.
 
I'm not sure how much pewter that they supply with the kits,but I cut mine about 1/16 to 3/32 deep. Not quiet an 1/8. I undercut the sides a little to be sure they stay in.
 
The instructions that I got and other info I've read about state to build a form/mold on the outside by wrapping with file folder paper.

Just wrap it around, on top form a spout of sorts with that and some more file folder paper and have it taped up really good. Heat the pewter and pour it in.

How the paper doesn't burn I have no idea - I guess I will find out soon.

The only thing left out in the instructions was the depth of the ring cut on the handle which prompted this question.
 
I've poured a few butt caps for knives the pewter the melting point is low enough that the cardboard I used didnt suffer much . I was wondering how you did it going around a handle without having a huge blob to shape down
 
I don't think anyone can give you a " set " rule on how deep to make a groove. It all depends on the thickness of the wood that is taking the cast, and how wide the cast band will be.

You do have a choice- a round bottom groove, done with a rats tail file, or a square bottom groove, done with either a coping saw blade, or square file, and, I suppose, a triangular shaped groove, undercutting the sides.

I don't know how to do that on outside curves with a triangular file. Perhaps you use a router bit, or similar shaped bit on a dremel tool, or use chisels. Since such a groove is undercut, the cast will hide the groove, so it doesn't necessarily have to be " pretty".
 
I guess my question would be. How long does the pewter stay liquid and will it flow around the handle before it sets up?
Dusty
 
You are asking for a guarantee that the pewter will flow around the entire circumference of the handle, and no one can give you that. However, it should occur, if the pewter is hot enough.

If it doesn't, then move your casting form( the cardboard) around to expose the area that did not get pewter, and pour another "cast" of pewter in it. Pewter melts at a low enough temperature that it should melt the old pewter to form a continuous band for you. If that does not happen, Heat a metal(iron or steel) rod up to red/white hot, and then put it on the pewter joint. It should melt the two butt ends sufficiently to make them flow together, just like using an old soldering iron on solder and lead joints. That is the same way to get rid of wrinkles that might show up in the cast, too.
 
Thanks for everyones responses. It will help. I will be pouring the melted pewter on my days off this week.

I used an X-acto knife to make parallel cuts around the handle and used that and chisels to remove the wood in between just like I've done for inlays. The depth of the cut is around an 1/8th inch.

For the "blob" of pewter that will form at the top of the mold - the instructions say to use an automotive body file to remove the excess pewter since it would'nt clog up like a regular file.

I hope the pewter will flow all the way around the mold so I don't get left with an open space at the bottom.

I will report back on how it goes.
 
Swamp Buck, After I get the grooves cut. I take a pencil and color the grooves on the bottoms and sides. It seems to make the flow go a little better. I test the the pewter before pouring with a tooth pick if it scorches it is a little to hot and will burn your handle. I use a coping saw to remove the glob.
 
Thanks,

This week I got three rings cast on the handle and a cast mouth piece.

Pewter was much easier to work with than I had expected.

It turned out great.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top