Picked up some derringer parts.

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I have almost all the parts for a Philedelphia Derringer.
Staining and rust removing are in progress and some more parts are on the way.

The one thing I am having an issue finding is proper screws for the trigger gaurd.
 
Cynthia, what is the size and style of the triggerguard screw are you looking for? An oval-head slotted wood screw of the correct size (in brass or steel) may fill the bill.
 
According to my old instructions from a CVA Derringer kit...

The front screw is fixed to the trigger assembly with a metal screw. The rear screw is a wood screw. Both screws are steel. The hole for the rear screw is started with a 1/16th pilot hole approx 1/4 inch deep. My guess is the wood screw is about 3/8 inch long.

The front metal screw is metric. You could probably re-tap the hole in the trigger assmbly to fit a standard thread.

I hope this helps. :hatsoff:
 
yes it does somewhat help for the rear screw
but I don't have the tool to retap the threads on the trigger

I am still waiting for the rest of my parts. So I got time. The stock is coming out rather nice.
I had to do some carving on the inside of the lock area as the locks trigger arm do-dad was mashed into the side of the wood. Now it is clear and the thing actually cocks and fires.
 
Don't re tap the trigger plate hole until you try getting a metric machine screw ttp fit. Larger home stores and many hardware stores now carry common metric sizes
 
If any one has either a cva colonial pistol or a derringer and the tool to check the threads on the screw that holds the front of the trigger assembly where the gaurd is held on that would be very awesome if you could check for me.
 
All of the screws are metric but you can use a #3 X 1/2 or 5/8 inch long wood screw at the lower trigger guard hole.

As was mentioned, the front trigger guard screw is a machine screw. It's thread size is 3mm X 0.50 mm. X 5mm long.

About the nearest US screw to this is a #4-48 UNF X 1/4 inch long but it is not a direct fit.
Adding to the problem is the screw is a fillister head which is different from the US screw.

Your best bet on this one is to contact Deer Creek by phone and tell them what your problem is with this screw. Who knows? If you talk nice they might even mail it to you in an envelope for no charge.
Of course you could make it worth their while by just ordering both of the missing screws.

Their address and phone number is
Deer Creek Products
6989 E Michigan Rd
Waldron, IN 46182

(765) 525-6181

They are not on the web but I heard that one time there was some place called that. The web place is the wrong place.

Oh, while I'm at it, the tang screw that goes down thru the tang and screws into the trigger plate is a 5mm X 0.8mm X 36mm long flathead screw.

This is close to a #10-32UNF X 1 7/16 inch long flathead screw.

Don't forget, think of a replacement screw as a piece of stuff that can be modified.
Put another way, if the screw head is slightly too large in diameter it can be filed down to size.

Now, young lady. Obviously you didn't listen to my warnings about building these black powder guns. Your going to get yourself into trouble if you keep this up.
Next thing you know, you'll be spending $700 for a box of parts to build a rifle.
Then you'll be sorry. :grin:
 
Cynthialee said:
thank you Zonie

:haha:

it's just a little pistol kit, not like it is really building a gun, more like paint by numbers really
:grin:

Yeah, yeah. That's what we all said! :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:
 
I know. I took apart the kit I had built 35 years ago to find out what the screw sizes were for you.

Just remember, first it's just a little pistol kit.
Next, its a bigger pistol kit. Then a revolver kit and maybe a old CVA Frontier rifle kit.
Then.........

:rotf:
 
I almost forgot to tell you. the lower end CVA pistol kits were notorious for tang screw misalignment with the trigger plate threads. Same for the Colonial pistol. Despite the fact that the holes seem to line up visually, the threads on the trigger plate are often more vertical than the angle of the tang screw.
 
So I finished the derringer.

Here are some pics:

CIMG7478_zps35857b2e.jpg


CIMG7475_zpsa7028f95.jpg


CIMG7473_zps63b57d1b.jpg



Now I have to start on the next one...


Note on the last pic that looks like a scratch, it is just a cat hair.
 
shouldn't there be a pin through the "forend" holding the barrel in the stock? I have had two of them and they both had the barrel pinned into the stock and small brass escutions on the stock for the pins to go through. Duane
 
Looks pretty good there. I second the barrel pin deal.

Do you have any regular slotted screws instead of the Philips head ones? :idunno:
 
All you need is an electric drill, a 1/16 inch diameter drill bit and a short length of 1/16 inch brass or music wire rod.

Oh, you also will need to carefully mark the location of the barrel underlug on the outside of the stock with a black felt tip pen.
You want the hole to be just under the bottom of the barrel, almost touching it.
Place a piece or two of magic tape on the side opposite the marking.

Place the gun with the barrel in place on a table.
Have someone stand off a little and tell you when the drill bit is going straight up and down and then drill the hole.

When it hits the steel underlug, keep a constant downward pressure on the drill and let the drill bit cut its way thru.

Also, make sure the pin hole goes all the way thru the stock.
Nothing more irritating than putting a pin into a blind hole and then trying to get it back out. :cursing:
 
You know, that derringer looks just like the one that was used to by John Wilks Booth. :hmm:
 
armakiller said:
You know, that derringer looks just like the one that was used to by John Wilks Booth. :hmm:
You are correct that Lincoln's killer used a Philadelphia derringer. Pictures of the actual pistol are available on the Internet.
 
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