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Pietta 1851 Navy .44 cal. Questions

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BRiddle

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I just purchased a Pietta 1851 Navy .44 cal. and have not shot it yet. How much powder is recommended for the brass frame .44 and does anyone have a favorite measuring/loading device?

I got some #11 caps at Gander Mtn. yesterday but they're too lose.

I read about using RWS 1075 caps or other #10 caps. Also got suggestions to change my nipples so that they will better fit the #11's.

I've looked at these Tradition nipples made for the Pietta pistols: http://www.traditionsfirearms.com/...d=341&osCsid=7ac864ef04e3790691650162f508d20e

Also just found these from reading on another forum and watching YouTube:
SLIX-SHOT BLACK POWDER NIPPLES http://longhunt.com/storelh/index.php?route=product/product&path=88_97&product_id=267

I like the looks of the Slix. I think from what I've read so far, they have to have #10 caps. Thinking about ordering 2 sets of 6 ($36 per 6) so I can also have a set for my spare cylinder, which is topic for the last question.

OK, One ,more question. When I bought my Pietta, I also got an extra cylinder. My thinking was a quick change while shooting to give me more shots...quicker.

Well, I have not been able to remove the wedge that holds the cylinder. There is a screw on the left side just above it...removing it didn't help any. There is a spring loaded lever (At least it seems so to me) on the right side. I have tried to press down on that while pushing the wedge out...still NO LUCK!

There has to be a better way. I'm sure the old gunfighters didn't have to remove a screw in order to quick change a cylinder during a gunfight!

Can someone please give a novice some help and advice.
 
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I already told you my opinion on the nipple cap issue so no need to chew it over twice.

As for the pin keeping the barrel in place...Use a rubber malet and give it a wack. You may need to use a small wood dowel or a punch. No need to remove that screw. The pin doesn't have to come all the way out. Just needs to clear things so it can be taken apart. So push the pin out to the point the screw catches it and prevents it from falling out then pull the barrel off, then pull the cylender and replace with the back up cylender.
For quik reloading you should have gone with a Remington clone. They pop the cylender out alot faster and easier.
 
cynthialee said:
Oh I forgot the powder charge:
No less than 10 grains 3F and no more than 25. Somewhere between 15 and 22 is my bet for best groups.

Thanks for the replies. I went back and played with it and figured it out. I wasn't sure if there was something else holding the cylinder that I couldn't see and didn't want to force it and screw something up.

I looked at the nipples you suggested. While searching around I ran across this new design discussed on another forum. $36 for 6 of them and they seemed to be getting good reviews. There's a guy on YouTube that had compared several different nipples and liked these the best.
Slix-shot nipples.

I did come across another question. I got a nipple wrench yesterday. It's a Traditions brand. It is supposed to be for pistols, but doesn't fit the Pietta very well. If I put much pressure on it, I'm going to round something off...wrench or nipple!

What is the best brand of quality wrench to use on the Pietta nipples. They're kinda recessed and hard to get the wrench on. I could probably file down the wrench I have to make it work, but I'd rather have one that fit better if it's available.

Thanks again for the replies.

Bobby
 
Is there a link somewhere that has directions on how to take the Pietta .44 Navy apart and put back together?

It looks fairly simple but I've found that sometimes things are not as simple as they look when it comes to taking apart a gun and putting it back together! :cursing:

Bobby
 
I ended up finding a cheap 1/4 inch drive wrench socket that went around the cone and ground 2 slots for the flats of the nipple to make a nipple wrench. Never could find one that both fit and wasn't too soft. This works well.

(Just don't use the wrench to tighten down the nipple!)
 
I honestly don't know where to get a good nipple wrench.
I have busted countless of those store bought ones. When I bought my rifle it came with a possibles bag full of goodies and in there was a pair of home made nipple wrenchs. One for the rifle and one for the Italian 'colt' pistols and I haven't broke a wrench since I got the home made ones.
 
Dont waste your money on CCI No.10 caps. They will be too small. You need Remington No.10. Cannot comment about the RWS.

I agree with Cynthia Lee about the powder charge.
Be careful changing cylinders.

I would not have an extra cylinder capped though. Too easy to drop and set a charge off.


Take a rag with you to wipe the thing down between loadings. They do get nasty

You might have a rifle nipple wrench. You can buy a wrench specifically for a revolver from Track of the Wolf, but your socket will work better for the stubborn ones. Use some anti-seize on the threads when you replace them.

Bob
 
Leatherbark said:
Dont waste your money on CCI No.10 caps. They will be too small. You need Remington No.10. Cannot comment about the RWS.

I agree with Cynthia Lee about the powder charge.
Be careful changing cylinders.

I would not have an extra cylinder capped though. Too easy to drop and set a charge off.


Take a rag with you to wipe the thing down between loadings. They do get nasty

You might have a rifle nipple wrench. You can buy a wrench specifically for a revolver from Track of the Wolf, but your socket will work better for the stubborn ones. Use some anti-seize on the threads when you replace them.

Bob

Thanks for all of the suggestions and replies!

I'm putting together an order from Track of the Wolf now. Their nipple wrench was recommended by someone else. They said it was well made.

Think I'll soak it in some lubricating oil while I wait on my order.

On another question. I got the wedge out that holds the cylinder, but it's pretty tight. I've been looking around online today and think I found a tool that helps pull them. Well, I can't find it right now to show everyone, but has anybody heard of a tool like that?

When I find it, I'll post a picture or link.

Thanks again for the help and advice...eventually, I'm gonna shoot this thang!

Bobby
 
Here's a thread I had when I got my colt about disassembly; http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/265801/

That wedge just stays in there like Cynthia said, yer sposta file on it a bit to git it to fit to your likeing.
I use half of a clothspin (the kind with a spring) to get my wedge loose, gives my paw something to hang on too and is just the right shape.

Here's a PDF manual from Colt about their revolver, it has instruction and a blow-apart on the last pages that helps,
Select,, Cap and Ball Revolvers;
all Colts and the clones are pretty much the same, http://www.coltsmfg.com/MediaDownloads/Manuals.aspx
 
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cynthialee said:
I never used or needed anything other than a mallet and a dowel or punch to get the wedge out.

I don't have any problem getting it out with a couple of tools now that I know how it works, I was just envisioning walking down a dusty street, shooting it out with Clint, and changing to a new cylinder on the fly without any tools...just my hands. :thumbsup:

I guess I got the wrong gun to do that. Just trying to do what I've seen'em do on TV Westerns. Well, it'll just be a good excuse to get another one! :grin:

Bobby
 
If you need a gun for battles then get something more contemporary. Maybe one of them modern guns that shoot them bullets in metal cases. ;)
Only use for a black powder revolver is playing around at the range or as a limited capability self defense weapon.
 
Confederate44 said:
Leatherbark said:
Dont waste your money on CCI No.10 caps. They will be too small. You need Remington No.10. Cannot comment about the RWS.

I agree with Cynthia Lee about the powder charge.
Be careful changing cylinders.

I would not have an extra cylinder capped though. Too easy to drop and set a charge off.


Take a rag with you to wipe the thing down between loadings. They do get nasty

You might have a rifle nipple wrench. You can buy a wrench specifically for a revolver from Track of the Wolf, but your socket will work better for the stubborn ones. Use some anti-seize on the threads when you replace them.

Bob

Thanks for all of the suggestions and replies!

I'm putting together an order from Track of the Wolf now. Their nipple wrench was recommended by someone else. They said it was well made.

Think I'll soak it in some lubricating oil while I wait on my order.

On another question. I got the wedge out that holds the cylinder, but it's pretty tight. I've been looking around online today and think I found a tool that helps pull them. Well, I can't find it right now to show everyone, but has anybody heard of a tool like that?

When I find it, I'll post a picture or link.

Thanks again for the help and advice...eventually, I'm gonna shoot this thang!

Bobby


Here's the link. It's about half way down. One is hardened and one is brass. http://www.possibleshop.com/s-s-tools.html

It's called a WEDGE PIN PULLER There's two on this page.
 
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If you do decide to take your Colt completely apart, after you have removed the trigger guard, take a long hard look at the way the two pronged flat leaf spring is installed.
It might even be worth taking a digital picture so you can look at it later.

This leaf springs two legs operate the trigger and the cylinder lock bolt and if you put it back in upside down it will look OK but the trigger and the cylinder bolt won't work.
 
Zonie said:
If you do decide to take your Colt completely apart, after you have removed the trigger guard, take a long hard look at the way the two pronged flat leaf spring is installed.
It might even be worth taking a digital picture so you can look at it later.

This leaf springs two legs operate the trigger and the cylinder lock bolt and if you put it back in upside down it will look OK but the trigger and the cylinder bolt won't work.

Thanks, I love digital cameras! :grin:
 
necchi said:
Here's a thread I had when I got my colt about disassembly; http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/265801/

That wedge just stays in there like Cynthia said, yer sposta file on it a bit to git it to fit to your likeing.
I use half of a clothspin (the kind with a spring) to get my wedge loose, gives my paw something to hang on too and is just the right shape.

Here's a PDF manual from Colt about their revolver, it has instruction and a blow-apart on the last pages that helps,
Select,, Cap and Ball Revolvers;
all Colts and the clones are pretty much the same, http://www.coltsmfg.com/MediaDownloads/Manuals.aspx[/quote]

Thanks for the thread link and the PDF file. With the two of them, I should be good to go!

Looks like Pietta would give you more in the owner's manual to answer these basic questions. All of this is very basic to those that have been shooting C&B revolvers, but to a novice like me, I was scared I'd either have springs jumping out all over the place or screw something up and cost more money to fix.

Thanks to everyone on this forum for giving back your knowledge and experience. :thumbsup: It's amazing how much info is available from shooters on here that we couldn't have accessed just a few years back.

Bobby
 
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Squirrel Tail said:
I ended up finding a cheap 1/4 inch drive wrench socket that went around the cone and ground 2 slots for the flats of the nipple to make a nipple wrench. Never could find one that both fit and wasn't too soft. This works well.

(Just don't use the wrench to tighten down the nipple!)

You know, the first time I read your post, it sounded good but I couldn't quite visualize what you were describing.

After re-reading a couple of times...I'm riding with you! Sounds like the best permanent answer. Well, I already ordered one of those from the Track of the Wolf. Hope it works, but I'm going to try making one from a socket.

One question on tightening. I assume installing new nipples should be just over finger tight? Snug? Kinda like tightening a spark plug?
 
I tend to load my guns w/ 2F instead of 3F. For a brass frame I would DEFINITELY stick with 2F. Lower pressure, and in most of my guns, more accurate too.
 
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