Pietta Remington

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I don't have a Pietta, mine are Armi san Paolo,
and Armi san Marco. But, a lot of makes have a tendacy to start binding after a few cylinders are fired. The best suggestion is to try several different lubes on the cylinder pin and in the chambers either on a wad under the ball or in the cylinder above the ball. Some swear by Crisco. I use my own concoction of beeswax and tallow with just a little crisco to make it softer, It's still a lot stiffer than straight Crisco. Some like the White Lithium grease for lubing the pin and loading lever assembly. I also just resolve to wipe down with a damp cloth and re-lube after firing 2-3 cylinders. Just gun oil on the pin won't last long.
Jon D
 
GoodCheer said:
Has anyone had fouling binding problems on the Pietta Remingtons' cylinder?

I have a Pietta Remington I got last year from Cabela's.

I find that a squirt of Ballistol on the pin between firing a full cylinder works wonders. Just a little spray on the pin does the trick.
 
A thick lube on the cylinder pin prior to shooting will take care of it. Crisco works but doesn't hold up for long, especially in hot weather. I have heard of the white lithium grease or water pump grease. I would think any high temperature grease would be good for the cylinder pin-just don't use it any where else on the gun. You also need to wipe off the face of the cylinder every so often with a dampened patch. I can typically get 5 cylinders shot before it starts binding at the cylinder face.
 
On mine everything works fine until the first shot is fired. Then it locks up and you have to turn the cylinder by hand. First shot, every shot. Maybe the gap between the barrel and cylinder is too tight.
 
Hmmmm, Maybe you could check the clearance between the cylinder face and forcing cone. A feeler guage from Autozone would do. The 58 I have is .011 and it's old. The cylinder index's OK when clean? Any circular marks on the cylinder face? Does it look like any lead is present w/ the fouling like maybe the timing is off a little?
I'm not sure of the best way to increase cylinder gap.
Jon D
 
You got a fine idea there Jon D. I oughta have a set of feeler gages any way.
No lead. And the timing looks to be expertini.
 
Until you get a feeler gauge, ballpark barrel - cylinder gap width should be about the thickness of a matchbook cover.

I have encountered Remington cylinders that were uneven on the front with a high area reducing the gap.

With the cylinder and base pin out of the gun; how is the cylinder/pin fit? Some are too tight and may have burrs.
 
some good suggestions already. if the cyl/cone is too close use a flat file and carefully take a few strokes checking frequently. pin may have burrs as said so check that. you should be able to get at least 3 cyls fired before fouling binds. I use 'natural lube 1000' for mine.
 
Hi there

I got the Pietta. I don't worry about the cylinder pin so much. I carry a rag and wipe as much of the cylinder as I can get to - especially the face. No problems so far.

Regards
Lucas

p.s. I use Ballistol on the pin when I lube before a shoot
 
A fix for cylinder pin lubrication not staying where it will be most effective is to have pins knurled. This does not effect pin's O.D. It is not expensive. And knurling keeps lubricant in place.

Colt's, having a series of rings that do what knurling does, have no need for the procedure.

Just a thought.
 
I hate to disagree but from where I come from, knurling is a method of increasing the diameter of a shaft. It is a cheap way to save a worn or undersize shaft or piston.

The knurling tool is pressed into the surface causing the material to become indented.
The material that was in the dents flows outward.

If a cylinder pin is knurled the person doing the job needs to know that the part will have to be machined down to the same size it was before being knurled.
 
No doubt that knurling well increase shaft diameter. I have cut a thread like groove with about a 1/8 inch spacing with a file and drill press on the 1858 pins. Start it slow and keep your spacing with a triangular file and then finish with a small diameter round file. Just deep enough to hold some grease.
 
Ballistol is a great lube for black powder guns, straight or diluted with water, depending on application. A quick-fix for the face of the cylinder binding asgainst the rear of the barrel is to lick your finger,and wipe it across the face of the empty cylinder as you rotate it.( Takes about 5 seconds ). If this is done before reloading about every other cylinder you can go quite a while longer before having to pull the cylinder for cleaning. An occaisional drop of ballistol in the joint between the face of the frame and the rear of the cylinder does wonders as well.-Smoothshooter
 
I always remove the cylinder and wipe it and the pin down about ever third loading. The design of the Remington makes this much easier than the Colt design does. Since I'm seldom in a super big rush,I don't worry about it that much. I lube the pin with sweet oil ( olive oil). Best regards, JA
 

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