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Pillow ticking patches

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I use Mink Oil Tallow from Track of the Wolf most of the time, but also my own concoction from deer tallow and olive oil. Experimenting now with bear oil and deer tallow like Swampie uses (His is excellent!), but the jury is still out.

Basically I prefer grease or tallow for hunting patches to any liquid, simply because the patch will be sitting against the powder for long periods. Other folks think differently, but hey, that's what it's all about.
 
Mooman76 said:
I use spit. I never forget to bring that.

works at the range but not so great for hunting.

i use wonder lube but im considering switching to mink tallow.

-Matt
 
I've used spit, Bore Butter and Stumpkillers Moose Juice.

They all work but IMO spit should only be used if the shot is going to be taken within seconds of loading.

Moose Juice and spit, used at the time of loading has the advantage of softening the fouling in the bore while the shot is being rammed.

This pretty much eliminates the need to wipe the bore between shots.
 
Currently using three rivers unlimited patchlube and solvent. Have use moose juice. Thinking of switching to Dutch method, but three rivers blue stuff is working good.
 
brownbear,
How do you put the Mink Oil on your patch and how much? How does it work on fouling. I've got some but haven't tried it much. I wasn't sure how to use it.
David
 
Store bought prelubes are what I usually use too. I like the convenience and for the amount of shooting I do the price doesn`t bother me. I have tried other lubes such as bore butter, olive oil, and spit. Never noticed any difference in accuracy with any of them. If I need to swab a fouled bore before loading I just put a cleaning patch in my mouth and get it wet with spit.
 
I use Tracks Mink Oil for hunting and at the range I've put the lube on two ways, one by putting some lube and patches in the microwave, and then I've just rubbed some into one side of the patch until it's covered. Both ways shoot the same in my gun.
 
I started with Bore Butter/Natural Lube but here in South Texas the heat and sunshine quickly turn that into a runny mess so I melted that together with a little beeswax and mineral oil for my patch lube. Adjust the amount of wax to oil according to the conditions where you live. This makes for a good lube for conicals as well.
 
stronics said:
brownbear,
How do you put the Mink Oil on your patch and how much? How does it work on fouling. I've got some but haven't tried it much. I wasn't sure how to use it.
David

I just swipe the strip across the surface of the lube, depending on the temp varying the pressure so I get a thin, but visible smear about two fingers wide. Then I position the strip over the muzzle, press the ball down as far as it will go with thumb pressure, followed by a firm push with short starter so the top of the ball is 1/4" or so below the crown. A quick swipe across the muzzle with a sharp (very sharp) knife to cut off the excess patching, followed by seating the ball down onto the powder.

A few "practical" insights:

I do about 99% of my shooting in the field from my shooting bag, but even on infrequent trips to the range I also load out of my shooting bag.

I find it easiest to knot a strip of patch material to one strap of my bag.

I melt the mink oil tallow and pour some into a Copenhagen can for bag carry.

I'm tired of fumbling with a short starter and the knife, so next time I make a knife I'm going to include a "button" about 1/4" long on the butt to serve the purpose.

I'm torn about what method of carry fits me best for my knife. I've put them on the bag strap, on the back of the bag, on the end of the bag and on my belt. We're hunting really dense brush, and the danged knife hangs up with any of those. Lately I've just been dropping the sheathed knife into my bag like I do with a small hunting horn, and that suits well. Next step is likely to make a bag with the sheath sewed somewhere inside.

Lotta individual decisions and techniques, but in my eyes the point is to find what combo works best for your needs.
 

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