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Pillow Ticking

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bads1buell

36 Cal.
Joined
Aug 27, 2007
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I am wanting to start using pillow ticking and would like to know what width I will need to cut these at. I am shooting a .54 cal
 
I go 2.5x the diameter of the largest caliber I shoot, then use them indisciminately with all my smaller calibers, too. Long as the patch reaches back up at least to the top of a seated ball, it's not too small, and bigger doesn't hurt a thing.

One thing that WILL hurt is the "sizing" compound on new fabric. It's some kind of slick stuff or stiffener that they add. Run the fabric through the washer and dryer before cutting/tearing in order to get rid of the stuff and preshrink it. If you don't you'll have a dickens of a time getting lube to stick to it.
 
I go with 3 white stripes and 3 colored stripes, which comes out to about 1.4" or 1.5". You can go smaller, but it's more work to center the ball when loading.

R.M.
 
When you cut it to width, use "pinking" shears. Those are the ones that make a zig-zag cut rather than cutting in a straight line. It will greatly reduce the threads unraveling from the side of the patch strip.
 
I carry it in strips 1 1/2" x 12-18" and use a patch knife to cut it after seating the ball in the bore.
 
I go 4 stripes just nick the material and tear a strip off. This will just fit in a 35mm film can. Then I cut at the muzzle. Works for me and I can use on any caliber I have at the time.
I hear Wal-Mart is going out of the material business. No more ticking from them. Look for Hancocks, Jo Anns, or other outlets.
Fox :hatsoff:
 
ditto BrownBear but I wash mine several times and leave it hanging outside in wet weather too until it dries.
 
I have posted before on this, will do so once again. I wash, etc. Then cut a strip of about the right size for the ball, depending---50,62, etc. I fold the strip over and over making squares of about the right size. Then I cut the corners off 1,2,3,4. Its like cutting paper dolls, leaves you with a series of patches held together each at the corner. I spit patch, and these are super easy to cut with your patch knife. I hang it over my horn strap for ready access.I dont know if this would work at all if you are pre-lubing a strip, as many do. Might be worth a try. Good smoke, Ron
 
Evil Dog said:
When you cut it to width, use "pinking" shears. Those are the ones that make a zig-zag cut rather than cutting in a straight line. It will greatly reduce the threads unraveling from the side of the patch strip.

I found that tearing the strips virtually eliminates the thread problem.

I tear mine about 7 stripes wide.

HD
 
buells1 said:
I am wanting to start using pillow ticking and would like to know what width I will need to cut these at. I am shooting a .54 cal

1+3/8" works perfectly, easy to center, holds lube, etc
 
I just pulled a couple of the precuts I made out of the bag and they run about 1 1/4x 1 1/2 or there abouts, I rip a piece the width I want then cut roughly square pieces close to the size of the width I ripped off, these and loose balls are in the bottom of the front of the bag with a small tin of bear oil/beeswax to lube before loading, for a quick reloads for a "finishing shot" I just use spit and fire the gun at days end whether there is anything to shoot at or not, if loaded with grease/oil patch the gun may stay loaded for several weeks if it hasn't got wetter than I like.
 
but no threads means no char material. the threads work great for this. I pack cap tins full and then char with a butane torch. after they cool ,bee's wax the lid tight and I have had some good after 4 years.
 
-----good idea--but---if the ticking is cut into strips the other direction the circular patches could just be torn off-----working with the direction the ticking can be torn-----
 
Evil Dog said:
When you cut it to width, use "pinking" shears. Those are the ones that make a zig-zag cut rather than cutting in a straight line. It will greatly reduce the threads unraveling from the side of the patch strip.

I just snip mine to start it and tear the strip. It will follow the same gap between threads in the weft. This method doesn't fray on the edges.
 
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