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Pillow ticking

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I`ve been wanting to give patch & round ball a try, but i`m having a bit of trouble locating ticking locally
Where are you folks buying your pillow ticking at?
 
Another vote for Jo-Anns here. The stuff I bought last month runs 48" wide so buying a yard actually got me 1,728 square inches for ten bucks. That's a lot of patches. :)
 
armakiller said:
Wal-Mart or Jo-Anns fabric store. Get the Blue Stripe.

Yeah, green stripe affects accuracy. I even make a point of making sure the printed side touches the ball when loading. Color out = fliers.

:>)
 
Wal-Mart. They have plain white, blue stripe, red stripe, and even tan stripe. I've used it all and it's exactly the same.

HD
 
Printed side? Get the good stuff with the pattern woven in from different color threads.

And you HAVE to line up the stripes for accuracy.

HPIM2602.jpg
 
"Yeah, green stripe affects accuracy."

All, Actually, some of the bolts of pillow ticking vary in thickness, which is why I bring my mic. with me prior to making a purchase. E.g, the red, light green, and tan striped pillow ticking are ~.001" thinner than the blue. The outdoors grade blue ticking is thicker yet, but also significantly more expensive.
 
As many have said, Wal-Mart or Jo-Anne's are two of the best sources for ticking. Just make sure you get the fabric does not have the "plastic" coating on it. Use only the pure cotton, un-coated fabric. Take your micrometer with you to be sure that the fabric that you pick is of the thickness that you want. When I find the fabric that I want, I buy at least 5 yards of it to be sure that I have plenty on hand and don't have to go measuring all of the ticking bolts in the store to find my exact thickness. Also, sew around the raw edges before washing to prevent unraveling. It can make a mess. After washing two times in detergent (no softeners), I press the fabric with an iron to remove the wrinkles. It is then ready to cut into patches.
 
Ye shouldn't joke with the new guys so much.
Some might actually believe you. :wink:
BTW there are two basic tickings. Bed and pillow. Bed is thicker. And, for those who can't figure it out.....pillow ticking is thinner. :grin:
 
So, do you load the ball with the stripes across the bore sideways, like a two-seam fastball, or across the bore vertically, like a four-seam fastball? I seem to be throwing knuckleballs....
 
Stumpkiller said:
Printed side? Get the good stuff with the pattern woven in from different color threads.

And you HAVE to line up the stripes for accuracy.

HPIM2602.jpg
Seriously Stumpy, I am so glad you posted that. Nice to know I'm not the only anal retentive smoke pole shooter around. Do you weigh each ball before loading too?
 
Thanks for all the great replies.

Prior to posting, i had went to Wal-mart, Kmart, Sears, Kohls, Micheals and a little craft shop here in town, all to no avail. We do have two other Wal-marts within 30 min drive that i was going to try.

Tried calling my local Jo-anns but the number kept says no longer in service??????? I took a drive to the location a co-worker had said it was, but the building was empty........... :idunno:

When i got home i googled Jo annes and got a map. So now i have 2 yards of pillow ticking from Jo annes, and it has blue stripes, and it was on sale for a dollar off a yard lol. I will mic it to see what it is. I`m going to be using .490 round balls.

Again, thanks for the info.
 
If you check the fabric you bought, you will find a " Smooth " side, and a "rough" side. Usually( but not always, depending on the fabric, and the maker), the printing ( color stripes, patterns, etc.) will be found on the ROUGH side.

The whole point of using a fabric patch around a round ball is to use the patch to GRAB the Smooth lead ball, so that the spin of the rifling will be imparted to the ball.

For that reason, I recommend that the coarse- or "Rough" side of the fabric be place UP on the muzzle, so that when the ball is pushed into the patch, and then seated in the barrel, the coarse or "Rough" side of the fabric will be against the ball for the BEST CONTACT.

Put the smoother side "DOWN" at the muzzle, so it slides over the lands and grooves easily and consistently. If you are ANAL RETENTIVE enough, you can test the velocities you get with the same components, with the Rough side down and up to see what difference you will get.

It does matter, however, if you clean your bore between shots. When I do that, I found there is only a very small difference in the MV I obtain, regardless of the orientation of the fabric against the ball. If I don't clean the bore between shots, MV changes more with the rough side against the bore( ie. rough side down on the muzzle) than when the smooth side is against the bore.
 
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