Plains Pistol

[BigL]

Hi All. I should be getting my BP permit issued this week, and I am going nuts waiting.

Having read all the pistol posts to date, I have some questions.

1. In my .54 Plains, what is the minimum load that would expel a patch and ball load? Where can I start loading from to experiment with the pistol?

2. In some posts relating to the Plains Pistol, mainly the .54 - some people complained of the wood cracking. Could this be due to 'dry'/un-oiled wood? Is there such a thing as too much oil? At what load would I be risking the stock cracking?

Regards

 

[mykeal]

Never had anyone want to know about the absolute minimum load before. I would imagine it's about 10 grains by volume, perhaps even 5. I can't imagine why that would be of interest.

The rule of thumb for a starting load for working up an optimum load for a pistol is half the caliber, or about 25 grains by volume for a .54 cal pistol.

As far as cracking the stock, that's got to be pretty high, perhaps 80 to 100 grains by volume. Not a handgun load, I would think.

 

[jtmattison]

Minimum load would probably be 10-15 grains. I don't know for sure. I shoot 35 grains in mine.

I have heard of cracked stocks but it was because they were shooting heavy conical bullets and 50+ grain charges.

Under normal shooting with roundball and recommended powder charges you shouldn't worry about cracking the wood.

HD

 

[JackAubrey]

I have a .50 calibre GPP.I don't have a .54 so I can't comment on it.Now the stock cracking, that's a little different story.When I first bought mine it did not come w/ any instructions.So I called Lyman.I was told 30 grains minimum and 60 grains maximum,3f,.495 PRB.At 60 grains she is a fire breather!Never had a problem w/ a cracked stock.I do soak my stocks in a mixture of kerosene and boiled linseed oil but I can't help but wondering if the stocks that crack have a hidden flaw and the over pressure causes a failure.What I mean is,not all stocks fail.I do think the over dry condition could aid in a failure.The stocks come from kiln dried woods.I noticed dried axe handles cracking occasionally.Old timers,I am told would soak the handles in coal oil in the off season to make them more supple.Best regards,J.A.

 

[crockett]

I'll throw out some thoughts.
My single shot "plains" pistol is 50 caliber and I use 37 grains of FFFg and a patched round ball.
1. Get a flash cup to put under the nipple/over the drum to prevent the surrounding wood from getting charred/blackened
2. A heavy bullet raises internal pressure up through the roof. Stick with the patched round ball.
3. Excessive powder charges likely don't burn completely before the ball leaves the bore, you'll be burning up powder for nothing.
4. There are two types of stocks. On the custom made guns the top is inlet for the barrel. then a hole is drilled for the ramrod. On a lot of kits a router is used to make the barrel channel and then the router is used to dig out a channel for the ramrod, leaving an open space below the barrel. The drilled hole is only a few inches long in the end of the stock. This "channel" type stock may be a little weaker but on a handgun I can't see that it will cause a problem with normal loads.
Use a reasonable charge. If you want a more powerful handgun go with a larger caliber and bigger ball.
5. Oil rots out wood. Use beeswax on the barrel if it is browned. The beeswax itself is brownish. It sounds like you have a wedge to remove the barrel for cleaning. If so, do that to keep oil off the stock. On the lock, occasionally remove for cleaning. If there is a big gap between the lock and barrel you may need to clean each time.

 

[kenneth strickland]

:hatsoff: Welcome to the best ML forum around. I use about 30 grains FFG or FFFG. It is powerful enough and doesn't batter the pistol. Lyman brochure listed 50 grains as maximum. Sometimes, I remove the ramrod and connected pieces for a different look and feel. One other thing I forgot is .530 size rb loads easier with thicker cloth. I've tried .535 and it became difficult to seat after a couple of shots.

 

[BigL]

Thanks guys.

Thanks Mykeal - I am weary of lower loads as I am not sure what is needed to get the projectile out.

Thanks Dawg.

Thanks Jack - I am using a wood oil and since the gun might have been in a box for a loong time, I am trying to feed it. I was worried about overdoing it, but if soaking is an option I ain't got no worries.

Thanks Crockett - unfortunately the only BP shop in Cape Town is USELESS in carrying any accessories other than the basics. I'll use the piece of masking tape trick Sam F suggests for protecting the stock for now. I assume that you meant gun oil rots the wood?

Thanks NewHawken - I have taken the rod / fitting off as well. It was much nicer to point, but it looks better with the rod in place - does that make me a fashion victim? :v

Now why wasn't it this easy to learn in school. :hmm:

Cheers

 

[Zonie]

Now why wasn't it this easy to learn in school.
-------

Because Priscella's strapless top was more interesting? :grin:

 

[flaming canvas]

I have cracked stocks on lyman pistols three times. The first one lasted quite a while, but it was getting a steady diet of 50 gr 2f and .535 ball. The second one was about the same. I liked the heavy loads because they were extremely accurate and I had a ball watching rifle shooters reactions when I could shoot with them at 100 yards.

The third one went after 7 shots with none of them over 40 grains. Lyman replaced that one, but it took almost 6 weeks as they were out of stock at the time. I now shoot 30 gr 3f and no problems so far.

 

[Chilidog]

I use 30gr. FFFg in my 50. Very accurate, no problems.

 

[BigL]

Hi Zonie, we had uniforms. To this day I still have a thing for a girl in uniform.

Hi Flaming Canvas - I think it might have been your earlier posts got me paranoid. :haha: