The problem comes when using FFFg powder in a gun that has a large touch hole. If you are using FFg powder, there is usually no problem, until your touchhole is 5/64th " or larger in diameter. But FFFg powder will come through a vent hole that is that size, or even 1/16" sometimes.
Measure the diameter of your vent hole with graduated drill sizes. There is a drill chart under Member resources at the top of the index to this forum, I think, but every hardware store has such a chart to guide you in selecting the proper sized drill, particularly when you are intending to thread a hole, and need the tap drill sizing. You can get this off the internet, too, of course.
I don't bother with the feather in the vent when loading. I always use a vent pick that fits through the vent, and has a flat side to the " point" of the pick so that I can move powder around in the barrel AFTER Loading, leaving an open area to allow the HEAT from the burning priming powder in the flash pan the opportunity to ignite more than one granule of powder in the barrel. When the powder charge is loaded without a hole for the flash HEAT, ignition is delayed. You can learn to shoot fairly well with the delay, but you shoot a lot better, particularly off-hand, when you get the powder burning faster in the barrel. That is the reason for opening the hole in the powder.
But, the " experts" above have spoken, so do what you wish. I started out shooting a flintlock without picking the main charge, and the gun does go off. I even hit the target more times than not. But, once a more experienced flintlock shooter showed me the advantage of, and consistency of speed of ignition that happens after making that hole in the powder, I use my vent pick every shot. I pick the vent before I prime the pan, if you need to know the order in which this is done.
Oh, flintlocks ignite the powder charge faster if you don't compress the powder when you load the projectile down on it. Just load to a mark that indicates when the PRB touches the powder, and don't compress it. This is the opposite of what produces the best consistency in a Percussion ignition gun.
If you or someone else thinks I am wrong, get a chronograph, and do proper experiments, changing only one factor at a time. I really don't want to argue with anyone about this stuff. It is what it is. There are people here who refuse to do proper testing, and come back saying things like, " I see no difference", their planned result. They are offended when anyone disagrees with them, or finds different results. They abhor using a chronograph, because it tells them things about their loads and shooting techniques they don't want to know. It takes all kinds. :youcrazy: :surrender: :thumbsup:
