I'm experimenting with finishes......1st applying T&T Oil Varnish cut 50/50 with turpentine and rubbed in to help bring out grain. Let this dry. Then applying S-W / Lee Valley Polymerized Tung Oil over the T&T. My question.....Will the two be compatible and bind together since T&T is cut w/ turpentine and the S-W/Lee Valley Polymerized Tung Oil is cut with mineral spirits? Thanks for your advice.
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Polymerized Tung Oil over T&T Oil Varnish
- Thread starter sparrish321
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I would stick with the T&T varnish, forget the lee valley tung oil.
Polymerizing tung oil needs to be used on its own because its dry and cure times are much longer than a traditional varnish.
If your going to use Lee Valley I suggest following their instructions, using their sealer first step and second step varnish, however I think the T&T varnish is much durable and likely closer to the more original finishes used.
Another great option is 70/30 tru oil and turpentine, this produces a great seal coat and then working it back with steel wool and then a coat of genuine oil by Birchwood Casey.
Tung Oils are very tricky to work with and they don’t blend very well with other varnishes.
I’ve mixed Japan drier in Pure Tung Oil with some decent results.
Milk Paint has the best natural tung oil options, but you have to make sure you don’t over sand beyond 180 grit, if the wood is too smooth it will never absorb into the stock.
Polymerizing Tung Oils like Old Masters, Lee Valley and Watco require a lot of drying time. When you layer a tung oil over or under a varnish that dries much quicker you’ll end up with a goopy mess that will cloud and take weeks to dry.
Polymerizing tung oil needs to be used on its own because its dry and cure times are much longer than a traditional varnish.
If your going to use Lee Valley I suggest following their instructions, using their sealer first step and second step varnish, however I think the T&T varnish is much durable and likely closer to the more original finishes used.
Another great option is 70/30 tru oil and turpentine, this produces a great seal coat and then working it back with steel wool and then a coat of genuine oil by Birchwood Casey.
Tung Oils are very tricky to work with and they don’t blend very well with other varnishes.
I’ve mixed Japan drier in Pure Tung Oil with some decent results.
Milk Paint has the best natural tung oil options, but you have to make sure you don’t over sand beyond 180 grit, if the wood is too smooth it will never absorb into the stock.
Polymerizing Tung Oils like Old Masters, Lee Valley and Watco require a lot of drying time. When you layer a tung oil over or under a varnish that dries much quicker you’ll end up with a goopy mess that will cloud and take weeks to dry.
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Hi,
Finishes that have the same thinner such as mineral spirits usually are compatible. Turpentine and mineral spirits are compatible as well. I would lightly scuff the surface with a maroon Scotch Bright pad or 320 sand paper and then put on the polymerized tung oil. Use the tung oil the same way as the T&T. Put it on thin, let sit for 15 minutes, and then wipe off all excess finish. even in every corner. Then let dry 24 hours before the next coat no matter how dry it feels. In warm (>65 degrees F) and dry conditions S-W polymerized tung oil will feel dry to the touch in as little as 3-4 hours. If put out in the sun on a warm day, it will feel dry in 2 hours. Don't add another coat. Wait 24 hours no matter how dry it feels. From the standpoint of weather resistance, the polymerized tung oil is better than linseed oil based finishes but can have exactly the same look and feel. That is why I've used S-W polymerized tung oil for over 30 years because I can use it to recreate almost any authentic looking finish. Inevitably someone will write that tung oil takes forever to dry and may never cure. They are confusing raw tung oil with polymerized tung oil. The polymerized oil is heat treated and mixed with solvents so it dries very fast. For example, you know how long it takes raw linseed oil to dry, right? Well Tru-Oil, which many of you use is simply polymerized linseed oil. It dries pretty fast, right? Anyway, Sparrish, you should not have any problem using the S-W finish on top of T&T. The important thing is to keep your shop warm and above 65 degrees because any finish risks clouding if applied when the temp is much below that, particularly if conditions are humid. The other key is to be fanatical about wiping off the excess oil.
dave
Finishes that have the same thinner such as mineral spirits usually are compatible. Turpentine and mineral spirits are compatible as well. I would lightly scuff the surface with a maroon Scotch Bright pad or 320 sand paper and then put on the polymerized tung oil. Use the tung oil the same way as the T&T. Put it on thin, let sit for 15 minutes, and then wipe off all excess finish. even in every corner. Then let dry 24 hours before the next coat no matter how dry it feels. In warm (>65 degrees F) and dry conditions S-W polymerized tung oil will feel dry to the touch in as little as 3-4 hours. If put out in the sun on a warm day, it will feel dry in 2 hours. Don't add another coat. Wait 24 hours no matter how dry it feels. From the standpoint of weather resistance, the polymerized tung oil is better than linseed oil based finishes but can have exactly the same look and feel. That is why I've used S-W polymerized tung oil for over 30 years because I can use it to recreate almost any authentic looking finish. Inevitably someone will write that tung oil takes forever to dry and may never cure. They are confusing raw tung oil with polymerized tung oil. The polymerized oil is heat treated and mixed with solvents so it dries very fast. For example, you know how long it takes raw linseed oil to dry, right? Well Tru-Oil, which many of you use is simply polymerized linseed oil. It dries pretty fast, right? Anyway, Sparrish, you should not have any problem using the S-W finish on top of T&T. The important thing is to keep your shop warm and above 65 degrees because any finish risks clouding if applied when the temp is much below that, particularly if conditions are humid. The other key is to be fanatical about wiping off the excess oil.
dave
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