powder and barrel length

[oomcurt]

Not sure if this is the place to put this post..

I've been thinking (yeah, I know it's dangerous) if one has a barrel of say 26-29 inches is there an advantage to using 3f over 2f powder (this is in .54 calibre)? Reason I ask is if 3f is faster burning then may it not be true that charge is completely used up as opposed to using 2f? By the same token in a barrel of 32inches or longer...it may be wiser to use the 2f. Thanking those who reply in advance.

Curt

 

[roundball]

Not sure if this is the place to put this post..

I've been thinking (yeah, I know it's dangerous) if one has a barrel of say 26-29 inches is there an advantage to using 3f over 2f powder (this is in .54 calibre)? Reason I ask is if 3f is faster burning then may it not be true that charge is completely used up as opposed to using 2f? By the same token in a barrel of 32inches or longer...it may be wiser to use the 2f. Thanking those who reply in advance.

Curt

For me personally, I choose powder type based on a number of things but none of them have to do with barrel length.

I use Goex 3F for as many possible situations as I can, in several calibers, based primarily upon two major characteristics: ignition speed and low fouling.

Examples:
.54cal Target load is 60grns Goex 3F
.54cal Hunting load is 90grns Goex 3F

I use 2F in larger bores like .58 & .62 for heavier projectiles or shot loads to avoid high pressure spikes and sharp recoil

:m2c:

 

[Stumpkiller]

I agree in principle to your statement that the longer barrels will benefit from the slower rate. I don't know exactly how long it takes to consume, say 80 gr of either FFg or FFFg under pressure in the expanding combustion area of a fired ball. Ideally, the last kernel should flame out just before the ball exits.

I've never owned a chronograph, and I don't load heavy anyway, so I'm pretty confident that my FFg loads are pluggin along well enough. I've always been more concerned with accuracy than efficiency, and quite often I'll sacrifice a bit of accuracy for ease of loading.

I got enough to worry about with "will it go off" to get around to worrying about whether the ball was coasting or accelerating for the last 6" of the barrel.

 

[Rat]

Generally speaking, going to ffg would be a combination of two things, a longer barrel, and heavier to heavy powder charges.

However, as stated, accuracy would be the first criteria.

Long barrel, light charges, probably fffg for best results.

Short barrel, light charges, fffg for sure.

Short barrel, heavy charges, still probably fffg.

Long barrel, heavy charges, probably ffg.

I'm kind of thinking in terms of .54" calibre and up.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.



Rat

 

[Landngroove]

I had shot FFG ( Goex, Pyrodex, & APP) in all my muzzleloading rifles for years. But, about two years ago, I tried FFFG (Goex) in my flinters, both .50, and .54, and will never go back to FFG, in flinters. Now for percussions. My white mountain carbines, .50, and .54, have short 21" barrels. Tried FFFG, (APP mostly) and will never go back to FFG. Better ignition, and less fouling. I also started using FFFG (Goex, & APP) in my other percussions, Hawkens, Renegades, Seneca, Deerstalker, ( 24", 26", & 28") barrels. Good results. I still use FFG (APP & Goex) in my .58 Renegade, inlines with 209 ignition, and 12 ga. shotgun. So go ahead and try both FFG, and FFFG, and see what works best for you. Just remember to reduce maximum FFFG load by 15%,from FFG. Start with 50, or 60 grains and work up. Some muzzleloader manufactures dont give any loading data for FFFG, in thier rifles. I would guess the reason being, some would abuse FFFG, and load as FFG, and with today's lawsuit happy society, the gunmakers would find themselves in court. IMHO.