Preparing to brown the barrel

[forty_caliber]

I'm getting ready to brown the barrel on my Kibler. I've got a bottle of Laurel Mountain browning solution that I'm planning to use. This is not something I've used before and I want to make sure I do this work correctly. I would appreciate any feedback that you may have.

Another question, Should I brown the lock and trigger as part of this process? What's the norm?

.40

 

[Ames]

Get out a bottle of alcohol and rubber gloves. De grease the barrel after draw filing and sanding with Emory cloth, and don't touch it with bare hands. Fingerprints will show up after a couple of coats and will send you back to square one!

 

[Pete G]

Follow the directions on the bottle.
Most locks were not browned. I use phosphoric acid aka rust remover.

 

[Vaino]

I've used LMF browning on many LRs and all I do for prep is a soapy hot water scrub and a hot water rinse. w/ a complete dry. I've handled the bbls w/ bare hands w/o complications , but my hands aren't sweaty or oily.

I use a cotton patch to apply the LMF but it's barely wet....too much LMF isn't good. The barely wet patch is drawn along the bbl flat for half the distance and the patch is re-moistened w/ LMF for the remaining bbl flat length. Time between coats depends on the ambient humidity....I use a very makeshift sweat box but others hang the bbl in a steamy bathroom. Try following the LMF instructions and see how the brown comes out.....Fred

 

[JHB]

Follow the instructions on there web site. When they say don't rub back and forth they mean it. I found out the hard way. I did mine in a steamy bathroom and it came out perfect.

 

[Eterry]

We did my 40 cal barrel in a shop, and found that filling a bucket with tap water then setting it near the barrel over night helped tremendously. I used Homer Dangler's browning solution. I also browned the lock.

 

[MIOutdoorsman]

I used LM on my Kentucky pistol, but in the dead of winter, it was very dry in my garage, so I built a humidity chamber out of a plastic box with tight lid, boiling hot water poured into a bowl, and a heat pad next to the bowl to keep it warm a little longer (did I mention it was the dead of winter?).

I followed their instructions to a “T” and I like the result. My result is a textured brown, not like some browned barrels that I’ve seen that had a super-smooth brown (similar to bluing).

 

[pooch156]

I have used both DGW and LMF browning solution with good results. For my current build I decided to use Dangler's. I love it. Just finished browning the lock for my J. Armstrong build. It gave a beautiful brown with a slight reddish hue. Even though the final prep was with 500 grit wet/dry sand paper, the solution took effect almost immediatly. After the third coat I had a beautiful brown without pitting. I'm sold on Dangler's!

 

[11th corps]

Just follow the directions on the LMF bottle. Is it humid where you live? I built a "sweat box" for the barrel on my Poor Boy. Put a wet rag in the bottom and hung the barrel from a piece of string trimmer string attached to the cap that sealed the box.
As others have said wipe the barrel in long strokes, don't rub the solution in. Card it between coats.
Good luck.

 

[oldwood]

Like 25+ years ago I made a damp box with couple a small blocks of wood to sit the barrel on, while I apply the browning solution. First to raise the humidity in the box , put some small water soaked pieces of wet rag in the box , but not touching the metal to be browned. Before starting , put on a pair of the cheap clean brown cotton gloves. Any time you touch the metal , make sure your gloves are on. Have used several kinds of browning solution , and found Laurel Mtn. Forge ,ok. Davis' is ok, can't remember some of the others , just not B.C. Plumb Brown . I prefer a finely brushed finish in my browning jobs , so once the draw filing , emery cloth work is done, I use a very fine wire wheel on the metal. The wire wheel degreases the metal , so that eliminates any need to use chemicals that could ruin the finish. The most important trick , is to use a damp , not sloppy dripping , 3/4" across , by 1/4 "or around that size , thick clean tee shirt material piece of rag with shredded cloth bits to come from it while applying the browning compound. When you apply the browning compound , wring out the applicator a little and begin brushing the solution on with NO runs , and no puddles , and minimal solution on the metal. Don't touch the wet browning solution on the metal and close the lid on the box. This method is quick , if done properly , one app. should do it in 12 hours. , Two , will darken the brown , but the metal might need carded. When the surface and color are acceptable, wash the barrel under a faucet , dry the metal with a heat gun or a torch hot to the touch , and apply a rust inhibitor like gun stock finish ,or boiled linseed oil and wipe down with a cloth until dry. A coat or two of paste furniture wax is last. I also don't brown the wood side of the barrel but make sure the barrel channel has finish on it...................oldwood

 

[Gvilleddie]

I just finished a barrel using LM for the first time. Barrel turned out great. I just followed the directions closely and applied 5 coats. It takes very little solution to coat barrel. Great product. Good luck...

 

[BEP]

Some good advice given to me before I used LMF the very first time - I was told that, after the first application I'd think that I'd really messed up the process and done something horribly wrong. Turned out to be really good council. That first coat is going to make that barrel UGLY and does not look at all like the beginning of a really nice finish. Just keep on following the directions precisely and you'll soon be able to breathe normally again. Good luck.

 

[Gvilleddie]

So true...I almost panicked when I looked at that first coat.

 

[pooch156]

I've used both LMF and DGW Browning solutions with good results. After reading reviews about Dangler's I thought I'd try it. I love it. I like the way my lock parts turned out. I followed the directions to the letter. I applied it with a piece of old T-shirt. From the onset there was no streaking. Just smooth and even. After filing I used 220, 320 and then 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. LMF and DGW browning solutions, for me, didn't take as well on a real smooth surface like that. Resulting in having to apply up to 5 coats. Dangler's took only three coats. Again, smooth and even.

 

[GAHUNTER60]

It says in the directions to apply lightly in one long motion without excessive rubbing. Believe them: DO NOT RUB THE SOLUTION ON THE BARREL! If you do, the areas you rubbed will look like a shiny new copper penny!

Don`t ask me how I know this.

BTW, I left the lock on my Kibler in the white (as per recommendations from other owners on here). I'm glad I did, as I really like the contrast on the bright metal against the brown barrel and stock.

 

[PathfinderNC]

I have always just used DGW cold browning solution. I have had consistently good results with it. This is my latest. I rust-browned the barrel (about five days of daily applications) and then carded the surface back to get an aged look.

 

[oldwood]

Shiny metal always looks good on dark wood. You have done well,very nice ,Pathfinder. I'm doing my first smooth rifle in pitch black walnut. The stock was full of bad knots , and ingrown bark inclusions ,and was bound for the wood stove. I rescued it from a friends shop. I've built many walnut guns, and silver parts on a dark background ,and throw in a little silver wire inlay ,it's almost a sensual experience. My favorite .40 , is walnut with hand made iron parts , browned , same as if some Appalachian Mtn. blacksmith made it. I love these m/l guns...........oldwood