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I have too much time on my hands…
While awaiting my next build, Kibler’s Colonial rifled in 50 cal. I went back to my first build, a Traditions 50 cal Kentucky pistol. It turned out OK for a first build, but I thought it could be better. My original staining and finishing was not ideal, so I stripped off everything using steel wool and laquer thinner. It went quickly. Resanded to 400 grit, then maybe 10 coats of Beachwood Casey Walnut with 000 steel wool between every second or third coat. Then 6 coats of Tru Oil, and 000 steel wool between coats. Better!
I also worked on the thimbles that hold the ramrod. They are machined pieces with decorative inletting. The first time I built this thing I just polished them up and installed them. This time I took both thimbles and dipped them into a bottle of brass ager until they took on that black-gray look. Then carefully sanded them with 2000 grit wet or dry, staying out of the inletting. I think they look much better that way. Also the brass washers on the far side of the lock were machine cut to a taper, but the machine marks were clearly visible. I smoothed them out with 800 grit and a trip across a Cotten wheel. I think an improvement.
I found this gun murder to start a 049 ball with a 015 patch. I was using my ball starter as a mallet to get the ball flush with the crown. I used a Drimmil with a green stone to chamfer the crown about a week before I discovered there is a thing called a coneing tool. Story of my life, day late, dollar short. I also used that green stone on the hammer, opening up the fairly deep cup on it just a touch to encase a musket cap perfectly. All in all, I think I took an OK build and made it better. Also, because I just finished it, a stuck a pix of a 67 carrot Cambodian Zircon i just finished cutting. Off topic I know, but a can’t help myself.
 

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I have too much time on my hands…
While awaiting my next build, Kibler’s Colonial rifled in 50 cal. I went back to my first build, a Traditions 50 cal Kentucky pistol. It turned out OK for a first build, but I thought it could be better. My original staining and finishing was not ideal, so I stripped off everything using steel wool and laquer thinner. It went quickly. Resanded to 400 grit, then maybe 10 coats of Beachwood Casey Walnut with 000 steel wool between every second or third coat. Then 6 coats of Tru Oil, and 000 steel wool between coats. Better!
I also worked on the thimbles that hold the ramrod. They are machined pieces with decorative inletting. The first time I built this thing I just polished them up and installed them. This time I took both thimbles and dipped them into a bottle of brass ager until they took on that black-gray look. Then carefully sanded them with 2000 grit wet or dry, staying out of the inletting. I think they look much better that way. Also the brass washers on the far side of the lock were machine cut to a taper, but the machine marks were clearly visible. I smoothed them out with 800 grit and a trip across a Cotten wheel. I think an improvement.
I found this gun murder to start a 049 ball with a 015 patch. I was using my ball starter as a mallet to get the ball flush with the crown. I used a Drimmil with a green stone to chamfer the crown about a week before I discovered there is a thing called a coneing tool. Story of my life, day late, dollar short. I also used that green stone on the hammer, opening up the fairly deep cup on it just a touch to encase a musket cap perfectly. All in all, I think I took an OK build and made it better. Also, because I just finished it, a stuck a pix of a 67 carrot Cambodian Zircon i just finished cutting. Off topic I know, but a can’t help myself.
Beautiful stone, nice job!
 
That's a very nice looking pistol and stone. I found long ago that a much thinner patch is required for a pistol than for a rifle. Pistols can be difficult when it comes to seating the same load used in rifles. A ticking patch (.015") is about the only patch that allows seating prb without pulling a muscle. Anything thicker turns my vocabulary a little blue.
 
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