Proper Barrel Finish?

[Greebe]

I was wondering what the proper barrel finish would have been on a Hawken style rifle. I have an Investarms version and think the modern hot caustic bluing looks out of place.

I have read some articles that said that the chemical browning such as Birchwood Casey Plumb Brown is not period correct.

I have also read that a lot of the old muzzleloaders were left in the white and that they developed a patina from normal use and handling.

Then I have also read that they used the slow rust bluing method.

So basically I have no idea who is right and what finish would be more appropriate for this rifle.

I would like to strip the current bluing and remove most of the barrel markings other than the caliber and serial number. I would also like to bead blast off the cheesy fake color case hardening. I do parkerizing in my shop, I could do that for a punk military look. Hehe just kidding. :haha:

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Greebe

 

[mr.flintlock]

I believe what a proper finish on a rifle is what ever finish you prefer. As far as historical accuracy, I believe that some early rifles came blued while others were browned and that some had no finish. I believe that most small business gun shops browned them. Most of the rifles that I build are browned using a slow rust method. I use a mild acid solution made by Homer Dangler. First I de-grease it with alcohol solution . Then I begin putting coats of the acid solution letting them dry for 12 -24 hours. I lightly wipe them down with 000 steel wool. I continue this process until I get a even brown color. I kill the acid with a baking soda solution . When it is dry I use a rag and wipe it down with type F automatic transmission fluid.

 

[LaBonte]

From one of the leading experts on original Hawken rifles:

The few Hawkens in good enough condition to see original barrel finish are blued. The blue is fairly dark. I like the color I get by doing a satin slow rust brown, followed by boiling the barrel in water to duplicate the color. When doing the rust blue, don't overpolish or you get too bright a color. It is not the deep translucent blue seen on European guns. The rib and thimbles were also blued.
The breech and tang were case hardened as well as the lock, butt plate, trigger guard, trigger bar, entry thimble, and (iron) nose cap. Not the highly colored case of modern firearms but a mottled grey case that some of the early makers called forge casing.

Per Don Stith