Pure Lead?

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Mockingbird

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So I got some lead sheeting from my father-in-law who worked at a shipyard. Sheets are probably about 1/8th" thick or so. My ultimate goal is to cast them into ingots and then eventually into round ball for both my smooth bore as well as my rifle. I am new to this process, however I feel like I have a good grasp on the safety and how to (at least for the ingot making part). My question is how to tell if the sheeting is pure lead or if it has anything mixed in? I used a LEE hardness tester like they sell over at TOW, and the stuff was "soft" (can't remember the actual number). I am guessing it is pure lead. Thoughts, wisdom, ponderings?
 
On this side of the continent all the lead sheeting I've seen or recovered from our shipyards has been pure lead. I'm guessing the prospects are good for you too.
 
Mockingbird said:
So I got some lead sheeting from my father-in-law who worked at a shipyard. Sheets are probably about 1/8th" thick or so. My ultimate goal is to cast them into ingots and then eventually into round ball for both my smooth bore as well as my rifle. I am new to this process, however I feel like I have a good grasp on the safety and how to (at least for the ingot making part). My question is how to tell if the sheeting is pure lead or if it has anything mixed in? I used a LEE hardness tester like they sell over at TOW, and the stuff was "soft" (can't remember the actual number). I am guessing it is pure lead. Thoughts, wisdom, ponderings?

If you would like me to test your lead I can. Just send me 3 projectiles, balls or bullets. I have done it for several guys on here.
 
I test with a fingernail scratch. If I can scratch it, it is soft enough to shoot.

In the historic period these guns come from they never had true pure lead like we have. There are various other elemental impurities other than lead in the lead ore they processed to make their lead.

So long as it soft enough it is good enough.
 
No practical way to tell exactly what is in it but if it's soft, that's what you need. Even harder lead will work for RBs but soft is preferred. With lead getting harder to come by these days often lead we used to know as pure or near is questionable because they use what they can get cheap.
 
Cynthialee said:
I test with a fingernail scratch. If I can scratch it, it is soft enough to shoot.

In the historic period these guns come from they never had true pure lead like we have. There are various other elemental impurities other than lead in the lead ore they processed to make their lead.

So long as it soft enough it is good enough.

I am going to disagree. I have a lot of experience with testing lead. I can scratch lead with my thumb that is 18 BHN, 5 BHN is pure.
If you want a fast test with an ingot you can drop them on cement. It will ring if it is hard. If it is soft it will thud.
Scratching lead is the worst way possible to test lead. If your shooting PRB maybe that test is good enough for you. But to others that want better lead. Don't use the scratch test.
 
Mockingbird,

Nice score. Take the offerings from these generous folk. You'll be hard pressed to find better.

There are a group of us in Central Texas who shoot in New Braunfels on the fourth Saturday of the month. If you are not a member of White Smoke Brigade you are welcome to join.

PM Me and I can give you details.
 
If the kick is too much I can understand.
If you just want to shoot hard lead out of a slow twist rifle that is fine too. But when someone is looking for information on finding soft lead, scratching is not the answer.
 
Hardness, in my experience, is secondary to weight. I fact, since 1976 I have managed without a hardness tester. I sort my cast balls by weight and shoot like weights together. Too heavy (molds not fully closed) or too light (air) get recycled.

I weigh every ball and keep the prime (+/- .2 gr) and separate the "half needle light (-.2 to .4 gr under) for plinking.

I can assume if too many contaminates (zinc, tin, antimony) make it in a batch they come in light and would be recycled into hopefully a better alloyed batch. I use "junk yard" lead and sheet lead. The former occasionally has solder in with it.

Happily round balls are very forgiving. You get it in and seated and it will come out the muzzle when fired.

I deer hunted with my Bess using wheel weight lead for several years. How much does a 0.715" ball need to expand if it exits a deer's offside chest?

I have taken deer with a 0.490" ball that barely expanded. Though that based on the only ball I ever recovered behind the hip under the skin after a frontal from the ground at 10 yards. The rest 0.490 & 0.530") have passed through. Don't know if they expanded or not.
 
Idaho Ron said:
If you would like me to test your lead I can. Just send me 3 projectiles, balls or bullets. I have done it for several guys on here.

Idaho Ron, Once I produce some round ball I will most certainly take you up on your kind offer sir. Thank you.
 
oh... you are being overly technical for an old timey hobby

They didn't have modern equipment, or elementally pure lead.

If it scratches it is close enough to pure to use.

If it melts and casts and it fits down the barrel it shoots just fine.
 
Cynthialee said:
They didn't have...elementally pure lead.
Actually, it was very likely this is exactly what they had. Mined, smelted and poured into a form.
 
It's fairly easy to smelt out near pure lead. Some of the old lead sold might be contaminated but near pure is easy to get. I have smelted out some local gelena my self.... but my fall back is fingernail scratch, I have not found any problem in the shooting or flattering when hitting.
 
Cynthialee said:
oh... you are being overly technical for an old timey hobby

They didn't have modern equipment, or elementally pure lead.

If it scratches it is close enough to pure to use.

If it melts and casts and it fits down the barrel it shoots just fine.

Actually I am not being too technical for the hobby. Some of us insist in getting what we paid for. And some of us insist on knowing for the most accurate load and the best performance on game.

I bought some lead from Ebay years ago. It was listed as pure lead. I had to pound the bullets down the barrel with a mallet. I got a hardness tester and tested them. They were 18 BHN. That is harder than wheel weight by some margin. Now that wheel weights are no longer lead and some recyclers are no longer selling to the public it becomes very clear that lead is getting tough in places to scrounge up. If you buy ingots that are listed as pure wouldn't you want pure? Around here pure is going for a buck a pound. If I get lead that is harder than 8 BHN I cant use it. It is worthless to me. So for the person buying it becomes very handy to know some ways to maybe tell if your dealing with alloy.

1- scratch test. This is the worst test you can do In all actuality the buyer would be better off if they never did this at all.
2- Dropping on cement. This is a pretty good test. If you drop the ingot on cement and it make a ring sound it is alloy. No if's and's or but's.
3- Color. Ya this can help you decide on buying a bunch of lead out of the back of a van. If it has any red color in it at all that could be rust. That can tip you off that this lead might have alloy. Lead with a white powder if iffy at best. That is Oxide and you can have white powder on soft and hard lead.
Blue color, BINGO!! if you can tell a hint of blue, slight green or yellow this lead is most likely pure. To see these colors the lead must have been poured recently in most cases.
Frosty silver ingots, ALLOY!!!!!
4-Hardness tester. I have the cabine Tree tester. I can test anything from a PRB to a 2" thick chunk.

The great thing about a tester is if I find a bunch of lead lets say in a pawn shop. Usually I can talk the owner into letting me test the lead hardness if I write the hardness on all the lead. That way when someone else wants lead they know how hard it is. It is actually more valuable when accurately labeled. I get only what I am wanting. Will I buy alloy? YES!! If it is 6 to 7 BHN and if it is 8 BHN I will buy it. I tell the owner that it is not pure and that I can't give him his price because it is not pure. I have bought some very good alloy for very cheep.

I am assuming that you are saying pure lead is not needed? I am going to say that is also clearly not true.
A part of true accuracy is lead hardness testing. If you have a tester you shoot groups and record what the hardness is for a set of groups. Some rifles like a little harder bullet. I know my 50 likes them to be 6 to 7 BHN. My 45 like the bullets to be in the 8 to 9 range.

I see a lot of people fretting over the thickness of a patch but few worry about hardness. If you have a pure lead ball and you use your favorite patch material and the ball shoots and loads perfect you got a winner. Now if you have lead pipe elbows and you make balls with them all of a sudden the balls are lighter because of the alloy, The bullets will shoot higher. The alloy does not shrink as much out of the mould. So now you add your favorite patch and they won't go down. Now you have to use a mallet to seat the balls.
There can be advantages in using a slightly harder lead. The gun might like it like I said before. Also the ball might behave better on larger game.

The problem is if you don't know the lead hardness of you favorite load, how can you reproduce it? if you buy pure lead from a place like Rotometals, you can be assured you have perfect soft lead. If you buy some off colored lead bars at a yard sale are you getting a good deal? It is tough to say. You might get lucky and you might get a poke in the eye.
I have bought lead that I had to get it NOW because I was out of town and I didn't have my tester. In those cases I dropped the ingots on the cement and listened, and hoped for the best.
 
Black Hand said:
Cynthialee said:
They didn't have...elementally pure lead.
Actually, it was very likely this is exactly what they had. Mined, smelted and poured into a form.

I disagree. They would have had Galena (lead and sulfur - PbS one atom each per molecule in a crystal matrix), lead ore, and melted it down without the aid of centrifugal furnaces. The other common lead ore is Anglesite: PbS04. That can be smelted or chemically reduced (add water and take away the lead you get sulfuric acid and lead oxide - H2SO4 & PB0). It was "mostly pure", maybe 98%, by modern standards once the sulfur burned away; but still had sulfur and zinc in the matrix.
 
That may be, but it was certainly not an alloy (with varying weight, composition and hardness) as was being discussed above...
 
My method is very unscientific. If the ball came out at the weight stated (more or less) and just plopped rather than rang, I figure it's pure lead. Also I consider the source. Xray, roofing, and such are almost certainly "pure" lead. I have a couple hundred pounds of the old type WW that I use to cast handgun bullets out of. I like it in my smoothbore for "naked ball" loads.
 
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