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:hmm: I would not attempt to cut pyrites with a large kerf blade i.e. carborundum saw blade---too thick---you will shatter the rock---use a small kerf piece such as a Dremel cut off wheel---please wear a face plate or eye protection---also keep the speed on the Dremel as low as possible and take your time. If it is a cube then cut parallel to an edge to follow the lines of stress on the rock. :v
 
Tinker2:

Still not much luck cutting the pyrite but I did get some cut.
The Dremel is the only way that is even close to working at cutting this. I think that if this sand dollar type pyrites sparks well and holds up and not crumble in a wheellock I will get a power feed rock saw first, before I get the wheellock, or cut any more.

I sent what I cut to Teleoceras to test in his wheellock.

Many thanks again! I'll try them out on the first dry Saturday after I get them. :bow:

I also use a dremel tool to cut my pyrite. It has done a pretty good job so far!

Slowmatch Forever!
Teleoceras
 
only cutting tile :haha: Not sure how the blade would hold up to pyrite... one way to find out.
 
Probably going to loose a good portion of your pyrite to kerf also but it should cut it. By the way how did the old boys manage to get useable pieces of pyrite? One thing is for sure they did not have dremmel tools and tile saws.
 
Runball,
I am sure they placed a fairly sharp blade over the crystal and rapped it with a mallet. They had to learn just where and at what angle to place the blade. I am sure that at first and at times they made a little pile of dust. But they got better at it. And the pyrites did not cost them what we are paying for them.

About the tile saw. My biggest fear there is how you will hold those little pyrites while you cut them in that saw. I prefer hand cutting, it keeps the fingers in tact and not mangled.
volatpluvia
 
volatpluvia said:
“I am sure that at first and at times they made a little pile of dust.”
volatpluvia


I got that part down pat, little piles of crumbs. Yes I tried the “a sharp chisel and smack it with a mallet” bit.
I guess I need more practice.

Well, I wanted to learn, I guess I am getting an education.

One of my pyrite chunks sure works great in my flint lock.
Doesn’t need a sharp edge to work.


Tinker2
 
The property of interest here is CLEAVAGE. Pyurite has poor cleavage. Diamond has perfect cleavage in four directions, and thats why the 'place edge then whack' approach works.

I think we are vastly better off learning to cut it. Best would be a water-cooled thin diamond saw, which I have cut a bit of rock with, but whatever works.
 
Tinker2:

The weather finally cooperated and I was able to try out the pyrites you sent to me.

All I can say is I WANT MORE!!!! I'LL EVEN PAY FOR THESE!!!! :bow: :bow:

I got consistent fire with little breakage. The most I got before trouble was 5 shots. But after swapping them for a clean pyrite, the shooting was fine again. Once I cleaned the dirty ones, they shot well once again and consistently.

Wherever you got those pyrites, they are worth their weight in real gold! These are true gun grade pyrite! :applause:

Seriously, I really want more of these and am willing to pay.

Slowmatch Forever!
Teleoceras
 
Tinker2:

All I can say is I WANT MORE!!!! I'LL EVEN PAY FOR THESE!!!! :bow: :bow:

That didn't sound right, I meant I would gladly have paid for the pyrites you already gave me.

In the 7 1/2 years I've had my Wheellock, I can truly say that I finally enjoyed shooting Sparky without the aggravation.

Slowmatch Forever!
Teleoceras
 
Teleoceras

Great to hear you had good luck with the pyrite. I am pleased.
One of my pyrite chunks sure works great in my flint lock.

If I can get more, I will gladly send you some. You want to try your hand at cutting it? I sure have not yet come up with a good way for me to cut it yet.

I ordered this. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3733
Bryan Brown’s idea, thanks Bryan. I will let you know if it works.

So tell us what is different then what you had tried?

How did you clean them, with what, and why?
That makes them work again after they stop working?
Are you cleaning the wheel too?

Is your wheel smooth or grooved?
Why, What is the difference?

Do you have cross grooves?
If so why?
Are the wheels different if you used flint?

Questions, questions, questions.

I would like to have a wheellock, but I have enough frustration.
Did you make yours?
Any ideas on making one?

Thanks
Tinker2
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Tinker2:

Hiya!

Great to hear you had good luck with the pyrite. I am pleased.
One of my pyrite chunks sure works great in my flint lock.

If I can get more, I will gladly send you some. You want to try your hand at cutting it? I sure have not yet come up with a good way for me to cut it yet.

I've been using a Dremel tool with a diamond head for cutting my pyrite. It has done a pretty good job so far.

So tell us what is different then what you had tried?

The other pyrite would either spark well, but crumble after just one or two shots (too soft) or they wouldn't spark at all (too hard).

How did you clean them, with what, and why?
That makes them work again after they stop working?
Are you cleaning the wheel too?

Just took the dirty pyrite into the bathroom at the range, used warm water and dried. I think the fouling residue was inhibiting proper contact between the rock and steel.

Is your wheel smooth or grooved?
Why, What is the difference?

Do you have cross grooves?
If so why?
Are the wheels different if you used flint?

WVent2.jpg


This is Sparky's wheel, grooved with crosscuts. I don't use flint since that grinds down the wheel thus opening a gap in the pan letting powder out. Iron pyrite is recommended since it won't grind the wheel down. The grooves and crosscuts help in generating sparks from the pyrite.

I would like to have a wheellock, but I have enough frustration.
Did you make yours?
Any ideas on making one?

No, I had Loyalist Arms build Sparky, but they did a horrible job on the lock. I finally asked Leonard Day fix her up for me in which he did a wonderful job.

The only two builders I know who make Wheellocks are John Buck and Leonard Day. I recommend both gentlemen.

There are others on the forum who have build their own Wheellocks. They could give you better advise if you want to build your own.

I'd appreciate it if you could get your hands on anymore of that pyrite. That fool's gold is worth it's weight in real gold! (pun intended)

Slowmatch Forever!
Teleoceras
 
Tinker,
I reread the posts thinking maybe I had just missed it. But it seems that you have not told us where you got these pyrites. We are curious. I still feel the pain from when I was looking for the mother lode. I went to Penn State, I went to Virginia looking for the lode when others told me it was there. Never did find it. Please tell us where you got these.
volatpluvia
 
Teleoceras

“This is Sparky's wheel, grooved with crosscuts. I don't use flint since that grinds down the wheel thus opening a gap in the pan letting powder out. Iron pyrite is recommended since it won't grind the wheel down. The grooves and crosscuts help in generating sparks from the pyrite.”

See, I just don’t understand that. The pyrite chunks sure works great in my flint locks. And yes the pyrite scratches the frizzen just like my flint does. So in my flintlock it works just like a flint does and cuts off little flakes of steel off my smooth frizzen? Yes?

Are the sparks coming off the steel like it does on the frizzen of my flint lock, or does some sparks come from the pyrites?
Pyrite’s hardness = 6 to 6.5 flint’s hardness = 6.5 to 7 [not sure of this]. I do know that I have used both with a fire steel with the same good results.

Would not a smooth wheel work just as well as a grooved one?
Do the crosscuts knap the pyrites? Is that what they are for?
Just trying to learn.

Thanks
Tinker2
 
volatpluvia

“I reread the posts thinking maybe I had just missed it. But it seems that you have not told us where you got these pyrites. We are curious.”

I got them in the Black Hill of South Dakota. The Black Hills are, besides a beautiful place, a tourist trap. I went to every rock shop [lots] in the Hills, I got every type of pyrites I could buy. I don’t know if you could just go out in the Black Hills and find much of the ones that seem to work. I believe that those that seem to work, are found in coal deposits.

“Maybe Tinker would like to make some money?”

$$$$
Who me? Make money? What’s money? I should ask my wife, I would bet she would know what money is.

Everyone thinks Tinker has more money then brains, well maybe they don’t think I have any money either.

I like money, like to have some anyways.?? Tell us more about this thing you call money.


Dirt poor, indigent and unpretentious.
Tinker2
 
Tinker2:

Are the sparks coming off the steel like it does on the frizzen of my flint lock, or does some sparks come from the pyrites?

The sparks are coming off the pyrite, not the steel like with flint. Not all pyrite is the same hardness. The wheel has been cutting grooves into the pyrite with each shot.

Pyrite is an iron sulfide (FeS2) which will create a spark when struck against any hard surface. The spark is generated by the friction of the steel wheel igniting the sulfur which in turn heats the iron bits from the rock. But it should not damage steel like a flint does.

Flint which is a chert creates the spark by shaving off the steel. The friction caused by that action is hot enough to ignite the oxygen.


Would not a smooth wheel work just as well as a grooved one?
Do the crosscuts knap the pyrites? Is that what they are for?
Just trying to learn.

No it would not. It is vital that there is a tight fit with sharp grooves to bite into the pyrite to generate the spark from the mineral. The crosscuts help, especially with softer pyrite. I know first hand that a smoother wheel will not get that friction needed to get the spark.

It is because of the need for a tight fit of the wheel with the pan, that it is essential that the rock is softer than the steel. Yes, you could use a flint too, but that will damage the wheel, wearing it down until there is a gap between the wheel and the pan. That gap will allow the priming powder to leak down.

Sparky's original wheel did not have sharp grooves and was poorly fitting. I could not get the pyrite to ignite for the life of me. One the current grooved wheel was put in, then I was able to get pyrites to ignite.

Slowmatch Forever!
Teleoceras
 
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