pyrodex in the pan / BP in the barrel okay?

[sdery]

Hello... I just bought a used flintlock through an online auction, and am anxiously awaiting it.... my first flintlock! I don't have a close source for black powder. Until I can get some Goex FFFg, is it okay for me to use the Pyrodex equivalent in the pan, and use black powder in the barrel?
Any advice would be appreciated!
Stan

 

[TANSTAAFL]

Reverse that order, Pyrodex is much harder to ignite than BP.

I first load approx ten grains of BP (so it is at the TH) then follow with amount of Pyrodex as desired, then prime pan with BP.

 

[Hawkeye]

Well if you don't mind it not functioning pyrodex will be OK. However I think you will find Pyrodex is nearly useless in a flintlock, the ignition temperature is too high for Pyrodex to be reliably ignited by the sparks from the lock, and it is also not reliable as a main charge, the best bet is to stick with real Black Powder.

 

[CrackStock]

Pyrodex will work as TANSTAAFL states above without any trouble.

The spark will not set off Pyrodex in the pan reliably, so you must prime with a powder that has a lower flash point and the 10 grains initial charge helps light the main charge from what flash gets through the vent.

This is standard loading instruction available from Pyrodex and NMLRA literature.

CS

 

[sdery]

What is "TH" ???

I have Goex FFg for the main charge, but it'll be awhile before I can get to my source to buy some Goex FFFFg for the pan... so I guess I'll just have to wait until I can get some.

I'm looking forward to playing with the new toy (a T/C 50 hawkins flintlock to accompany my .50 T/C percussion hawkins), but I'll be patient and not waste money on Pyrodex.

Thanks much!
Stan

 

[riverrat43]

If I couldn't find 4F, and I had some 2F, I'd just do the old morter and pestle trick. Put some 2F in a glass bowl and with the bottom of a shot glass or something similar, I'd grind up a bit of 2F to a finer consistancy. I prime with 3F often and have no problem, so it doesn't HAVE to be as fine as 4F. I've also heard of putting some coarse powder in a container with the round balls and walking around and letting the motion of the balls grind it up for you....then again I might be
nuts... :youcrazy:

 

[Stumpkiller]

What is "TH" ???

I think he's referring to the vent. :rotf:

I was coached never to call it a "touch hole" to avoid confusion with . . . well, never mind.

This is my rifle, this is my gun. One is for shooting, the other for fun. :winking:

 

[Rebel]

TH is touch hole or vent hole. You want to get some REAL Black powder up against it so it will ignite.

 

[Kevin M]

Just use the ffg in the pan. I use it all the time and ffg in the barrel. I keep the touch hole clear and it goes off reliably. The 4f also will collect moisture faster. The 2f or ffg (same thing) has a coating on it that helps it not absorb water as quickly. I used to carry a priming horn and a powder horn. Now I just carry a powder horn. Your gun might be a little more picky, but I threw the pyrodex out a long time ago.

 

[mikee51848]

Need to know also what cal. your rifle is. That will make a difference as to what size bp to use.

 

[Landngroove]

Goex FFFG in the pan, and Goex FFFG for the main charge. Works everytime!

 

[sdery]

Thank you all, kindly... I really appreciate the advice! It's nice to be able to ask questions and get experienced and knowledgable people to help... this is a cool forum. (I'll be posting a question about a BP pistol soon in the appropriate forum, now that I've seen the level of expertise and experience here!)

I will try 2f both straight and ground and see how it works. The rifle is a .50 T/C and I've been obsessing about getting one ever since I bought my .50 T/C percussion... and my 12 year old and I can't wait to take it out.

Stan

 

[SCATTERSHOT]

Pyrodex won't work in the pan of a flinter,and poorly in the barrel. If you have some black powder, use it for your priming charge, too. It'll work fine. As mentioned above, you can pulverize some for your priming charge, if you find it necessary. With fffG, you probably won't need to.

 

[ronrryan]

There are some shooters here in humid Fla who use 4-F for priming except when it is very humid, when they change to 3-F or 2-F for priming. My understanding is that the coarser grades have a coating that keeps them from turning to "soup" quite as quickly. I shoot 3-F in the barrel of everything, and often prime 3-F right out of the horn. Hope this useful, Ron in Venice, FL

 

[Arrowstorm]

I'm sure it's "ok", but it's not gonna burn well for you. I used 3f pyrodex for my prime for a good while, simply because that's all I could get. When I found out I could mail order 4f black powder, I did so. And it's a WORLD of difference! I still shoot pyrodex 2f as my main load, though, as I don't have much problem with ignition. I'll move to "real" black powder main charges soon enough though, I suspect.

Again, Im sure it's "ok" to use. But you'll tear your hair out wondering why you're not getting good ignition. The answer is that pyrodex has a higher burn temp, and it's gonna take more sparks than your average flintlock can throw.

Get you some good old black powder. You can order it by mail at about the same price per pound as pyrodex from[url] www.graffs.com[/url]. Save ye a LOT of trouble. I speak from experience. :thumbsup:

 

[CrackStock]

If your area is dry, you might use 4f to prime, but if it is damp, try 3f. The granules are coated in graphite. I am not sure whether it is the size of the granules or the graphite which offers some bit of moisture resistance, but crushed powder turns to wet soup very quickly if there is much humidity. 4f is not much better.

I would use up or toss the pyrodex ASAP as I find it more touble than it is worth and I never got any accuracy with it anyway.
(Your scores may vary.)

I generally use Goex 3f in almost everything, but I have several cans of 2f for my smoothbores. I have one can of 4f for priming at the range when conditions are very dry.

CS

 

[sdery]

Wow... lots of experience and wisdom in this forum - thanks!
Our great black powder shop in town went out of business, and the only thing available for about 80 miles is Pyrodex. I haven't bought any (I was just tempted to with the Flintlock on the way, but won't now!) and have stocked up on Goex FFg for my percussion. I'll go with the general consensus opinion to just use my FFg as a priming charge, and will pick up some 3F or 4F when I can. We are in Southern California, and dampness is NOT an issue!
Thanks again, everyone!

 

[TANSTAAFL]

TH is touch hole. FF or FFF will work fine in most pans for priming. Many experts state there was no such thing as a priming horn, the old timers primed with whatever was in the main charge horn.

 

[CrackStock]

TANSTAAFL,

You are right.

I often prime with whatever I am using as the main charge. 2f has not given me a problem. Might seem slower, but that can simply be between my own ears.
(I need to ask Larry Pletch if he timed this when he was timing and photoing all of those locks)

I rarely use 4f or a priming flask/horn anymore unless I am at a range on a dry day which is when I want the fastest ignition over a long string of shots.

I may carry a bit of 4f in a priming horn in case I need to reprime quickly or someone needs to trickle some 4f in a vent or behind a nipple after dry balling. It has its place in my bag of resources, but is to be considered a luxury rather than a need.

CS

 

[sdery]

Thanks, CrackStock -

I need to get some 3F anyway, so maybe I'll try that in addition to 2F.

I can't wait to get my new toy and try it out - my wife will kill me. That would be a good topic for a forum thread - the reactions of wives to the toy purchases of their husbands..... maybe I'll start such a thread after she hits me over the head with this new Hawkins!

Thanks again,
Stan