And just seeing the improvement you got by drilling it out to 1/16 (.062"), imagine the ignition with the new liners TC started using a couple years ago which have a hole 20% larger than that at .075", and have a huge outside cone designed in...it's like shooting a .30-30, all the time, every time, they're really outstanding
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Guest
Good to see you over here on this forum Barbie. We need information straight from the source.
You guys need to check this lady's registration profile, you might be suprised at her qualifications for giving us advice!
:RO:
You guys need to check this lady's registration profile, you might be suprised at her qualifications for giving us advice!
:RO:
Guest
Since the 1970's company's with a product to sell told us we didn't need to clean by slughing the barrel, but merley by using their 'product'.
; With NEVER cleaning a BP gun (until recently) without flushing it, I had not even considered the problems associated with that type of Cleaning.
: I found that in the gun I attempted to clean with only a solvent/patch lube on cloth patches, that there was considerable fouling left on the breech face and in the corners at the bore, except for the exact centre of the plug, where the cloth touched it. Now, of course, I need only buy something else- a breech-plug scraper- and after that, probalby something else to BUY- a cloth patch holder that will clean at 90 egrees to the rod's end, or I can again, clean my guns pefectly, as always, by flushing them with water, which removes BP fouling from EVERYWHERE.
: All of my brothers rifles, all that were custom made, that is, from $3,000 up in price, all that are longrifes are pinned, all owners remove the pins for cleaning, every time- as instructed by Taylor, the rifle's maker. Not one has trouble with pin removal or replacement - I don't get it - why so many people, it seems, don't do it & try to clean without taking the gun apart.
; I just purchased the flush kit from Track, (it's cheap!) about 6 months ago, but as yet, havn't tried it out. All it requires is lock removal which should be done for cleaning, any way.
; After using the White Lightening liners As-is, for about 6 months, I drilled them out to 1/16". The igniton might be faster with the larger hole, I can't tell. It's VERY fast, much faster than with the ampco socket or screw slot liners were. Not only that, but properly installed in a new rifle barrel, they're invisible after browning, and on my 'bright' pistol practically inivisble on the bright steel barrel as well. I like them- wind them in, file off flush with barrel - drill to 1/16" - or not - and ou are finished.
; With NEVER cleaning a BP gun (until recently) without flushing it, I had not even considered the problems associated with that type of Cleaning.
: I found that in the gun I attempted to clean with only a solvent/patch lube on cloth patches, that there was considerable fouling left on the breech face and in the corners at the bore, except for the exact centre of the plug, where the cloth touched it. Now, of course, I need only buy something else- a breech-plug scraper- and after that, probalby something else to BUY- a cloth patch holder that will clean at 90 egrees to the rod's end, or I can again, clean my guns pefectly, as always, by flushing them with water, which removes BP fouling from EVERYWHERE.
: All of my brothers rifles, all that were custom made, that is, from $3,000 up in price, all that are longrifes are pinned, all owners remove the pins for cleaning, every time- as instructed by Taylor, the rifle's maker. Not one has trouble with pin removal or replacement - I don't get it - why so many people, it seems, don't do it & try to clean without taking the gun apart.
; I just purchased the flush kit from Track, (it's cheap!) about 6 months ago, but as yet, havn't tried it out. All it requires is lock removal which should be done for cleaning, any way.
; After using the White Lightening liners As-is, for about 6 months, I drilled them out to 1/16". The igniton might be faster with the larger hole, I can't tell. It's VERY fast, much faster than with the ampco socket or screw slot liners were. Not only that, but properly installed in a new rifle barrel, they're invisible after browning, and on my 'bright' pistol practically inivisble on the bright steel barrel as well. I like them- wind them in, file off flush with barrel - drill to 1/16" - or not - and ou are finished.
I have always been able to get a good flush by just pushing a damp patch down a barrel that has fluid in it and let it squirt into a bucket..no need to remove the barrel, the plugs looked clean when removed for inspection several years later, I do like to put a wad of paper towel under the last few patches so it will conform to the bore when cleaning.
Hi all,
Thanks for the welcome! Glad I can help. I'm still learning too, but I'll try to contribute when I can. :winking:
As for cleaning, you shouldn't need to remove the barrel to get it clean. The originals we have don't show any type of wear that would indicate that the barrels were ever removed repeatedly. However, if you are going to clean them that way, might I make one suggestion... file the tips of the pins to rounded ends. No sharp edges, that way you'll minimize the chance of knocking a chip of wood out when you're putting them back into the stock.
Thanks for the welcome! Glad I can help. I'm still learning too, but I'll try to contribute when I can. :winking:
As for cleaning, you shouldn't need to remove the barrel to get it clean. The originals we have don't show any type of wear that would indicate that the barrels were ever removed repeatedly. However, if you are going to clean them that way, might I make one suggestion... file the tips of the pins to rounded ends. No sharp edges, that way you'll minimize the chance of knocking a chip of wood out when you're putting them back into the stock.
Blackpowder Barbie makes a good point.
Some of the guns out there do not have chamfers or radii on the ends of the pins. This, in effect makes the end of the pin a rather effective little chisel so every time the pin is removed and reinstalled, it tends to remove the wood and enlarge the holes in the stock.
After a few removals the pins will become so loose they will literally fall out of the stock.
Pins which are chamfered or which have a nice radius on the ends will not enlarge the holes and can be removed many times without harming the stock.
I am sure the people who build custom Kentucky style pin mounted rifles are aware of this and chamfer or radius the ends of their pins.
Why are there guns which don't have their pins chamfered? IMO, it is the factory guns which are most likely to have these square ended pins, and the reason is it costs money to put the radius or chamfer on the ends of the pins.
If your gun is one of those with these square ended pins, it only takes a few minutes to fix them with a file or a oil-stone.
Another good reason for chamfering the pins is that it helps them "find" the hole in the underlugs when your reassembling your gun.
Some of the guns out there do not have chamfers or radii on the ends of the pins. This, in effect makes the end of the pin a rather effective little chisel so every time the pin is removed and reinstalled, it tends to remove the wood and enlarge the holes in the stock.
After a few removals the pins will become so loose they will literally fall out of the stock.
Pins which are chamfered or which have a nice radius on the ends will not enlarge the holes and can be removed many times without harming the stock.
I am sure the people who build custom Kentucky style pin mounted rifles are aware of this and chamfer or radius the ends of their pins.
Why are there guns which don't have their pins chamfered? IMO, it is the factory guns which are most likely to have these square ended pins, and the reason is it costs money to put the radius or chamfer on the ends of the pins.
If your gun is one of those with these square ended pins, it only takes a few minutes to fix them with a file or a oil-stone.
Another good reason for chamfering the pins is that it helps them "find" the hole in the underlugs when your reassembling your gun.
Guest
Abslutely right, Zonie- I hadn't thought of pins that wouldn't be chamfered. Afterall- that's a normal thing to do to them.
I might mention here, that the pins on the Sea Service Musket were not only square or partially round with flattened sides, but were also peened and they chipped the wood upon removal the first time. Wonderful, eh? Of couse, the first thing I did was to radius them- only a couple minutes to do that - Should have been done, though by the maker.
I might mention here, that the pins on the Sea Service Musket were not only square or partially round with flattened sides, but were also peened and they chipped the wood upon removal the first time. Wonderful, eh? Of couse, the first thing I did was to radius them- only a couple minutes to do that - Should have been done, though by the maker.
