Question about stock finish

[Pilgrim]

I am building my first kit, a tradition 50 caliber Kentucky rifle. I have done wood finish before and know how important preparation is. My question, I’m thinking about using boiled linseed oil as a finish, does anyone have experience using it? Comments appreciated.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
This question seems to get asked at least once or twice a week. Many folks here have years of experience with BLO. I urge you to use the search function above and simply search for "boiled linseed oil finish". You'll find many past threads and posts.

dave

 

[tenngun]

I like BLO but it’s slow….. like a year to put on.
Track and others sells ‘original oil finish’ ist thinned with pine oils and some sort of dryer. Makes a tough hard oil finish that is not sticky on the fingers like tru-coat, goes on in a month, and looks to my eye just like BLO

 

[rafterob]

I used BLO and maybe took a week-two weeks. I was not in a hurry so it did not matter. Just remember to seal the oil afterwards with a good paste wax product to protect against stains.

 

[springfield art]

I like BLO but it’s slow….. like a year to put on.
Track and others sells ‘original oil finish’ ist thinned with pine oils and some sort of dryer. Makes a tough hard oil finish that is not sticky on the fingers like tru-coat, goes on in a month, and looks to my eye just like BLO

Boiled linseed doesn't take "like a year"...are you thinking of Raw linseed?

 

[ZUG]

In my opinion there are MANY other finishes that are better suited for gunstock wood. Some better than others in the application method and durability. I will chose one of these instead of BLO

 

[tenngun]

Boiled linseed doesn't take "like a year"...are you thinking of Raw linseed?

No, thinking of BLO.
Soak the stock, let sit for two weeks. Rub down with greeny or 0000 steel wool.
then just a few drops rubbed on once a day for a week.
Then once a week for a month
Then once a month for a year.wax with a good wood wax after.
Had my granddads BLO that was twenty years old when I got it and I’ve used it for years.
got the recipe from Falada back in the 70s.
I never have used Raw

 

[excess650]

BLO contains driers, so hardens quickly like any other "wiping varnish. Raw linseed oil takes a long time.

https://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-use-boiled-linseed-oil-safely/

 

[springfield art]

In my opinion there are MANY other finishes that are better suited for gunstock wood. Some better than others in the application method and durability. I will chose one of these instead of BLO

Many guys want the "original" type finish; military guys maybe want to duplicate the military finish. I'm sure in the 18th or 19th C. we didn't have the numerous modern "oils" like we find at Home Despot!

 

[Flintandsteel]

Colonial smiths used varnish. Oil based finishes with driers added. They made their own, and I’d imagine they were linseed oil based. These guys could not wait a year for a finish to dry.
They had to make a living.

 

[tenngun]

I would suspect most finish was an oil with a varnish and only a week or so old.
Sweet oil, animal fats, raw linseed all got rubbed in to stock wood over the years. And waxes too.
Gunstocks are one of the few wooden items in regular use that wasn’t routinely painted

 

[deerstalkert]

most people think of truoil or some such when they think of a blo finish.
my method is the same as Tenngun's and has been for about 1/2 gallon of blo. hate to think of the years and guns gone that it took to use that much. my wife even came to tolerate the smell on me after 40 or so years!

 

[longcruise]

Colonial smiths used varnish. Oil based finishes with driers added. They made their own, and I’d imagine they were linseed oil based. These guys could not wait a year for a finish to dry.
They had to make a living.

Eric Kettenburg has looked into this pretty extensively. He has posted on it on ALR. Varnish seems to have been widely used and was probably derived from that used by violin makers.

 

[user 34300]

BLO is not a good finish. Any real wood finish will be better. That opinion is based on 40 years experience with every imaginable finish material. If you are stuck with paint store materials try spar varnish, mineral spirits, and a dash of japan dryer. Apply thin coats with small pieces of lint free cloth.

 

[longcruise]

BLO is not a good finish. Any real wood finish will be better. That opinion is based on 40 years experience with every imaginable finish material. If you are stuck with paint store materials try spar varnish, mineral spirits, and a dash of japan dryer. Apply thin coats with small pieces of lint free cloth.

What is your current choice of finish.

 

[tenngun]

Mine is track original oil finish, I can’t tell it from Wakegon bay tru coat, but I think they are out of business

 

[user 34300]

I am currently using spar varnish, mineral spirits, and a dash of japan dryer. Apply thin coats with small pieces of lint free cloth. Scuff the buggers off with burgundy scotch brite between coats.

The truth is most any finish that dries thoroughly will work. The key is to use thin coats. Don't goop it up.

I would not use modern thick spray on catalyzed finishes on a ML. I would not use anything water based. Shellac is not good. Over the years I have seen lots of crazy stuff. The worst was used engine oil. The stock was black, stank, and the wood was ruined. Never use any type of mineral oil on a stock.

Lacquer is used a lot on furniture and cheap factory guns. IT is not bad as filler coat. Use Deft sanding sealer. Sand between coats. When the grain is filled use the top coat of your choice.

BLO takes forever to dry. You can add japan dryer. It just does not have any special qualities that make it worth using. For maintenance, If you want to put a bit of BLO on an already finished stock I won't argue. It look nice and smells good. After the BLO I suggest some paste wax.

 

[springfield art]

Colonial smiths used varnish. Oil based finishes with driers added. They made their own, and I’d imagine they were linseed oil based. These guys could not wait a year for a finish to dry.
They had to make a living.

Anyone know a replacement for Chestnut Ridge Military Stock Stain? It's no longer avail. from Chestnut Ridge Supply. Is dark walnut with "a hint of red", like mil. stocks.

 

[1950DAVE]

My experience and a test from a past post.

There is a lot of opinion on this subject, and it has been hashed out on this site ever since I have lurked here. My experience has been favorable toward BLO. I don't hunt in downpours so can't vouch for that, but have been in drizzle and bushes with plenty of dew. No problem. Some time ago I posted a test I did on a GPR stock with a drop of water maintained for quite a period of time. BLO finish, more than 5 yrs old, no swelling or discoloration. A couple of months ago I freshened the finish with BLO. I have never used wax. Here is a 36 hour test.
Water drop maintained in place, 36 hours, temp, 72* F.
View attachment 78131
# 2 some discoloration. May be minerals from drying?
View attachment 78132
# 3 rubbed with palm, no magic incantations, no potions, no special orders to some supply house , no waiting weeks, months for an order to be filled.

View attachment 78133
Do as you like , be happy with what you do. Just my experience.
Dave

 

[NorthFork]

Anyone know a replacement for Chestnut Ridge Military Stock Stain? It's no longer avail. from Chestnut Ridge Supply. Is dark walnut with "a hint of red", like mil. stocks.

Like you I am also looking for a replacement and have found none that work as well.