Question on ramrods.

[splinter84]

The ramrod that came with my new Lyman GPR kit has a brass head on one end threaded for a cleaning jag or other threaded accessories. The other end has a brass head with a concave end used to push a ball for loading.

If I ever needed to pull a ball, how the heck would I use this ramrod to successfully pull it? My neighbor's ML has a ramrod with threaded heads on each end. When he has to pull a ball he would thread his ball started on one end and the screw on the the other.

Other than purchasing another ramrod, how would you successfully pull a ball with the Lyman ramrods?

I did purchase my gun as a kit so I can change the heads of the ramrod out if necessary. Just something I have been pondering. Thanks guys.

 

[Flash Pan Dan]

It never even occurred to me to try to pull a ball with that ramrod. But if you want to try you will need to pin the threaded brass ferrule to the rod first or it will pull off.

 

[Prairieofthedog]

Splinter 84,save yourself a lot of pain and anguish and get a loading rod{range rod} first off.It makes loading and cleaning so much easier,best money you will spend.As far as pulling a bullet there are many better options than a ball screw.Been there done that-once,never again.Just do a search on Dry-ball and you will get all the info you need.Have fun with the GPR.

 

[splinter84]

Found a few helpful tips. I probably should have researched the topic a bit more. Thank you.

 

[Prairieofthedog]

splinter84,just make sure that you still pin the threaded end of your ramrod tip.It is about as easy to get a patch stuck on the jag in the barrel as a dry ball.You don't want that tip to come off.

 

[Ron_T.]

I bought a CO² "gun" to "blow-out" a dry ball or anything else that gets stuck in the barrel and it works like a charm... every time!

You can get an adapter... or it might come with adapters for both percussion cap or flintlock rifles/pistols. Get the one that uses the CO² cartridge that Wal*Mart sells 'cause they're really inexpensive at Wal*Mart vs. buying them on line or at a store that sells the smaller CO² cylinders.

You can get the CO² "guns" on line or at some gun stores that do a lot of black powder business. They're simple, not very expensive and they work!


Strength & Honor...

Ron T.

 

[George T.]

I second or third the CO2 Unloader. I got mine from Dixie and at times it gets a lot of use at our monthly matches. The first time I saw one used I knew I just had to have one. Best money I have spent in a long time. Geo. T

 

I purchased a solid aluminum range rod and boy was I glad I did! Since those first times out shooting, I did several dry balls. That solid rod saved the day every time. :grin:

Paul

 

[Vaino]

Most of my RRs have a "tip" on both ends...on one end there's an #8-32 and on the other a #10-32 and both ends are pinned. Also both ends have 1/8 dia.transverse holes for use w/ a small rod to pull the ball.

Have used a ball puller a couple of times and have had no difficulty using the above RRs......Fred

 

[ohio ramrod]

On all of the ramrods I make, I glue and pin brass tips on both ends. The tips are threaded so that a ball puller /patch retriver etc. can be fitted to one end and a "T" handle on the other. This allows you to to put your feet over the handle if needed so you can use your leg muscles to pull and stuck object. Also if you leave the t handle on and use a bore guide you have a range rod and ramrod both with the same rod! :hmm:

 

[S.Kenton]

On all of the ramrods I make, I glue and pin brass tips on both ends. The tips are threaded so that a ball puller /patch retriver etc. can be fitted to one end and a "T" handle on the other. This allows you to to put your feet over the handle if needed so you can use your leg muscles to pull and stuck object. Also if you leave the t handle on and use a bore guide you have a range rod and ramrod both with the same rod! :hmm:

I baught a couple of Ohioramrod made ramrods..they work VERY well and never had any problems. I will be placing an order arund the end of June the first of July for another.

 

[Stumpkiller]

I use a screw-in puller on my rifle's rod and, if a bit of leather I keep for cutting flint leathers isn't enough for a grip, I tie a rolling-hitch on the exposed end and tie the other end of a shoelace or bit of cord around a branch and push the rifle away. Have never had a ball refuse the latter.

IMHO you shouldn't rely on a range rod unless you carry one while hunting. I don't.

 

[Kapow]

I use one of these covered worm thingies on one end and a threaded tip on the other. I use a T handle then push the screw into the projectile nose and turn a few dtimes then pull the lot out. Never failed me. In fact I pulled a seriously stuck conical yesterday and it worked a treat. 24 hr epoxy & brass pin into ramrod.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/840/2/RT-CW-6
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/list/Item.aspx/849/1
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/847/2/RT-6-10-I

 

[Mad Professor]

My ramrod is threaded on both ends. I made a t-handle that allows me to pull balls or a stuck jag, and also functions as a short starter. I carry it with me hunting. After you short start, the jag can seat the ball.

I used a broom handle and some brass hardware from the hardware store to make the t-handle.

 

[Grenadier1758]

I purchased a solid aluminum range rod and boy was I glad I did! Since those first times out shooting, I did several dry balls. That solid rod saved the day every time. :grin:

Paul

Range rods are a good investment. Be sure to include a rod guide to protect the muzzle and bore. Aluminum rods are good, but they can pick up grit that can wear on the muzzle. Have a spare wooden ram rod on hand too. The best way to prevent a wood ram rod from breaking is to have a spare rod handy.

 

[Col. Batguano]

A normal shotgun cleaning rod doesn't have a handle that rotates and is usually stout enough to drive the screw in to the ball and twist.

That said, with the CO2 units when I've used them I get blow-by with them, and can't always dislodge the ball.

 

[splinter84]

A normal shotgun cleaning rod doesn't have a handle that rotates and is usually stout enough to drive the screw in to the ball and twist.

That said, with the CO2 units when I've used them I get blow-by with them, and can't always dislodge the ball.

Very helpful tips guys.

I opted to keep the wooden ramrod the way Lyman made it. I am going to pick up a brass double threaded ramrod that will work with my t-handled starter and fit myGPR. I can find a home for it in my ML case if it doesnt fit the gun. If thats the case I will prob change the style of ramrod I carry when this wooden one eventually cracks and gives out. I do have a muzzle guide as well.

 

[Rifleman1776]

when this wooden one eventually cracks and gives out

You seem married to that rod because Lyman made it. It is yer rifle and rod, do wat floates yer stick. Hope you are happy together for a long time. My view is a rod is a stick and tool. Nothing special, mystical or romantic about them. I have dozens of rods for back-up, special purposes and, often, loaning to others. Am I obsessed? Dunno. :idunno: Ask my shrink. :haha:
Do not expect your rod to wear out or break with normal usage. It might outlive you if not abused.

 

[Flash Pan Dan]

"

It might outlive you if not abused.

I am wondering if abuse is involved here.

To the OP: How many push strokes does it take you to ram a ball down the barrel? If it is less than 6 I believe you may be over stressing the ramrod. You should ram the ball down the barrel 3 or 4 inches at a time.

 

[Col. Batguano]

+1

How many times have you been at a range and loaned someone your 46" range rod to load their 28" Cherokee, and had them grab the handle waaaay up there to try and seat a load with it like they were using it to clean their shotgun?