question on working with antler

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mikemeteor

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I'd like to make a thin oval-ish inlay out of whitetail antler for my current rifle build.
Have no experience working antler.

How thin can an antler inlay be before it becomes likely to crack/break ?

I have some large sheds I'm working with.

what's the best way to cut a wafer off the main beam, with smallest chance of it breaking ?
Any tips on working with antler would be appreciated.
thanks,
-mm
 
In my experience you can cut it awfully thin with a bandsaw. Cracking once it's mounted is more likely if it's not smoothly bedded, but I wouldn't worry about it with the thinnest wafers when the bedding job is good. I've got antler buttons 1/8" thick, and have never had them crack. Of course, I'm cutting them far out in the antler where the core is solid. Might be a different story back toward the base if its porous in the middle.
 
Oooh boy. Wafers of antler DO like to crack! Even antler buttons 1/8" thick will crack in short order.
The stuff is very porus. I made a few powder measures from Elk sheds, got the idea to make the inside of the hole smooth for a good flow, kinda "seal" it. I poured some Tung Oil in there sloshed it around, then stuck it in a vise upright for just a few minutes before pouring it out. The oil worked it's way all through the tip following defined pores in the grain.
It made my measure OK, but I'd sure hate ta see ya go through all that trouble just to have yer inlay crack during the inlet.
A fine 6" coping saw blade will cut nicely, just go slow, I work the blade around the antler so I won't get that final bit of the cut to "break" or chip. Then sandpaper on a flat surface to desired thickness.

I'd try modern "resin" replica of horn before the actual horn, might be a reason we haven't seen alot of horn inlay?
Those button's seem to break at inoppertune times.
 
Thirds on the bone. Petsmart or other big box pet stores carry a nice supply of bones and rawhide for projects.

Good luck!
 
thanks to all for the sound advice.
may keep the antler work restricted to powder measures ! :hatsoff:
 
It depends on what part of the horn you're dealing with. If you need a wafer big enough that you have to get down toward the base, yeah, it's porous and brittle. With larger horns or smaller wafers that let you get out toward the tips, you'll find little or no porosity and you're darned near dealing with ivory.

Some of the prettiest "bone" I've ever seen was a friend's work with a big mule deer shed. He cut out near the tips at a sharp angle to produce oblongs rather than rounds. Looked much like fossilized ivory and it's about as tough. If I do an inlay, I'll be negotiating with him for one of those.
 
I've cut antler for various projects. A band or jig saw works with fine tooth blades if you can manage to hold/clamp it down. If it isn't help firmly in place it will spin around and perhaps even suck a finger into the blade.

A coping saw with fine teeth or even a hack saw with fine teeth.

As another said, bone is probably easier to work with. However, I found that uncooked bones work better. a bone that is cooked doesn't look or hold up as well.

Lastly, there is something called vegetable ivory. I think it may be a very hard nut of somekind. It cuts and works like ivory. You may be able to buy thin sliced flats from some off the hobby suppliers.
 
If you have some antique stores or piano shops in your area, stop by and see if they might have some old ivory piano key material laying around! Just be sure the ivory is off an old piano and not plastic! Feebay also has 'em regularly!

Rick
 
If you are concerned about cracking try stabalising the antler. I often have antler sections stabalised when I send out knife handle blanks to be done.
 
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