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Question regarding the use of tow in a smoothbore

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Ok, I have a shortened fusil in 62 cal. I want to shoot the gun in a more traditional way, Ive been experimenting with paper wadding and have had some success. But I want to try using some of this great wad of tow that I somehow accumulated. My question is do you treat the tow with anything to keep it from starting fires downrange?
Thanks
Kevin
 
With shot or ball? I use to use it with ball, Id just put the ball directly on the powder, and than rammed just enough tow down on top the ball to hold it in the barrel if I tipped the bore down. I never started a fire that I know of.
 
I've not tried tow before but use hornet nest spritzed with a little moose milk ( Ballistol and water) and have never had a problem, just damp not soaked. I don't dare use paper around these parts unless there's snow cover. I went outside and tried to lite a dampened wad and it will not burn!
 
I use jute tow in my smooth bore for shot and ball. I posted how I make it on April 10 in Shooting Accessories, ‘how I make jute tow’.

After much trial and error, I’ve developed a loading method for a .62 caliber that works good for me. First is ~65 grains of 2f or 3f, then a wad of spit lubed jute tow about the size of a round ball. Then load the round ball or shot and topped off with another wad of spit lubed tow.

Sometimes I will use powder, bare ball and topped off with spit lubed jute tow but using the tow over powder and over ball gives better accuracy.
 
I just put in the powder, then the ball, then a leaf from the closest tree to keep the ball seated.

I have rammed tow over powder and then grass or leaves or whatever to hold the ball in. Didn't see any better results than just ramming bare ball down on powder and holding in place with whatever. Save your tow for cleaning and fire starting if nessecary

Can you give us an example of the results you are getting? What is the standard you are looking for for, "any better," or not any better?
Also, how much powder are you using to get those results?
 
I have rammed tow over powder and then grass or leaves or whatever to hold the ball in. Didn't see any better results than just ramming bare ball down on powder and holding in place with whatever. Save your tow for cleaning and fire starting if nessecary
I save my well used cleaning tow (you can use it multiple times for that) for wadding. If I can recover the tow wadding after shooting I use it until it’s blasted to nothingness.
 
I mostly use that in a woods situation not shooting paper. I use 55grs. 3f in my 28 ga. With a .535 ball. I used to do this with my 62 also. I do as good at 50yds with 1 or the other
 
There are some companies who sell ghillie suits and the stuff to make them that offer a spray on and let dry fire retardant.
 
I mostly use that in a woods situation not shooting paper. I use 55grs. 3f in my 28 ga. With a .535 ball. I used to do this with my 62 also. I do as good at 50yds with 1 or the other
Okay, that's less powder than I expected. Most people advocating ball directly on powder are shooting a lot more than that.

What is "as good at 50 yards...."?

When you say "woods situation," are you talking hunting or woodswalks?

There is a big difference between consistently hitting 8 to 10, or even 12 inch gongs at varying distances and keeping all shots in 4" or less at 50 yards which is the standard I've set, for myself to give me a suitable margin for error, as an adequate load for hunting.
 
It is all well and good to say a certain load or loading method, "works for me," or, "shoots good/good enough," or, "as good as other methods I've tried," etc. If no indication if what that standard of good is, it really isn't that helpful. One person's, "good enough," might not be even barely adequate for what someone else is trying to accomplish.

I'm not disparaging anyone's "good enough," (okay, well, sometimes I might but that's a different conversation). The standard being sought seems to me to be pertinent information though.
 
Here’s a target I shot offhand at 30 yards. Load was ~60 grains of 3f, a spit lubed wad of jute tow, a .600 caliber round ball, and topped off with green leaves. The gun is a Chambers flintlock .62 caliber smooth rifle. It probably wouldn’t win any matches, but I don’t compete. It’s fine for my purposes.
AC116E17-DD74-4635-A7B7-0B7BBF026892.jpeg
 
Okay, that's less powder than I expected. Most people advocating ball directly on powder are shooting a lot more than that.

What is "as good at 50 yards...."?

When you say "woods situation," are you talking hunting or woodswalks?

There is a big difference between consistently hitting 8 to 10, or even 12 inch gongs at varying distances and keeping all shots in 4" or less at 50 yards which is the standard I've set, for myself to give me a suitable margin for error, as an adequate load for hunting.
You did see 28 gauge hence the smaller powder charge. When I say woods situation I am talking hunting and trekking. I shoot competition on paper with it. Then I use a patched round ball with the same powder charge. Off a rest 4 inch group at 50 yds
 
You did see 28 gauge hence the smaller powder charge. When I say woods situation I am talking hunting and trekking. I shoot competition on paper with it. Then I use a patched round ball with the same powder charge. Off a rest 4 inch group at 50 yds
Thanks.
Yes I saw the 28 gauge, I was still expecting a larger charge.
 
Can you give us an example of the results you are getting? What is the standard you are looking for for, "any better," or not any better?
For me the key is getting the proper fit of the ball to the barrel. My favorite guns are .62. But all are not exactly .62. So I use a ball that is close enough to the actual bore size that, after one shot, the fouling is enough to keep the ball seated. Or I can drop down a little in ball size and patch the ball. But I prefer to shoot un-patched. As for accuracy, at my age that has more to do with my eyesight than the load.
 
I just stomp out the tow after the shot , it just smokes a little . If I use hornets nest , outer layer or green grass or leaves , I like plaintain leaves but any work , they dont burn so are convenient ...
 
I live in the southern MA./ northern RI. area of New England and the woods get pretty dry during the summer and fall months, normally the fire threat is pretty high during those seasons, so using flammable patch material in a muzzle loader is an invitation to considerable liability.
most of my muzzle loading shooting is done on wood walks or stump shooting on hikes or hunting.
Even most of the line shoots are held on ranges with allot of grassy areas that are dry and brown by Fall, when I was younger I was into period trekking and we were always pretty strict about authenticity as far as our dress, weapons, and gear but we always used heavily lubed cotton or linen patches to keep the threat if fire starting down to a minimum.
 
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